Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
I got the first of my 2 fully built shiga hooked up tonight.

First impressions: very positive indeed, excellent sound considering that it's just thrown together at the moment.

Me and the little connectors didn't get on too well, I will probably solder the motor wiring directly I think. Other thing is that it seems a little more picky about the cds that the jvc shiga. Playback is perfect so far on perfect discs, but I have skips and toc fails on more scratched ones.

I took a short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LJ6oLDJs9M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Thanks tibi! The work of the chassis now is next.

Fran
 
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woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
Something else for other builders to watch out for: make sure that you fit the motor cable the correct way around. If you fit the connectors first to one end of the 6 way ribbon, then the connector at the other end needs to be "upside down" so that SP+, SP-, SL+ SL- and so on connect the correct way around. Just watch it when you are putting the cable together.


Fran
 
iTiberius

iTiberius

Member
Joined 2005
For those interested to build Shiga from scratch we have added on sale a mini kit which contain all critical parts to build Shiga.
Trafo, CD mechanic and other passive parts can be purchased from various sources, so we focused only on the parts which are unobtainable or very hard to find elsewhere.

- PCB boards for Shiga and Remote
- IC set LA9242M, LC78601RE, LA6541
- transistor set 2SA608NF, 2SB764E, 2SA1342,
- IR remote cipset SC7461-103
- Vicol-Audio custom multiplexed LCD
- Citizen CSA-309 crystal.
This contain worldwide shipping and is no need to add shipping to your order.

Also starting with 15. November we reopen webshop for 50 ready mounted and tested Shiga boards.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
The connectors that came with the kit are small - and these awkward thums don't make it any easier!! I found this little video on youtube and it makes the process of soldering them much easier (I'm guessing most here won't have the proper crimping tool). I went and soldered up the second set tonight in 1/4 the time with perfect success. I think the key is that you only strip a tiny amount (2mm) of the end of the wire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjmVMsEuxbo

(the guy is making up an adaptor cable)

Fran
 
iTiberius

iTiberius

Member
Joined 2005
woodturner-fran said:
Tibi - a quick question regarding the contrast modification: There is no pot installed at P1. Do I need to install a pot at this location in addition to removing L7 etc? If I do need a pot what value (2k?)


Cheers

Fran
Click to expand...

The 2K pot will only change backlight intensity.
For contrast you need to follow modifications posted on
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-642.html#post3223611
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-643.html#post3228966

or look in documentation https://docs.google.com/document/d/1vlabZc_1If3x12ox2A5ECZxC0HLGnuOWdM-j9X4b7Q0/edit
page 9.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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W

woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
So I went to do this mod this evening. Big fingers do not help!

Anyway, I cut the 2 traces OK and used 2 soldering irons to remove L7, fitted the link between the 2 capacitors. I fitted a 1.5k resistor in place of L7, but unfortunately I broke L7 when positioning it on the new pads. I simply bridged the 2 pads - I hope this is Ok - it seems to be.

I got a little improvement in contrast, and I fitted a pot for P1. Using the 2 together the situation is better. Its not as good as the original shiga, but good nonetheless.

Thanks again Tibi. Is the value of L7 critical?

Fran
 
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