Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I've been following on this great transport thread for awhile and finally finished my unit. Out of the box it sounded quite nice. Thanks for such a great project.

Please allow me to ask a few questions.

How important is the 300 ohms and 100 ohms resister at the digital out ? I notice some use caddock, does resistor quality impact the sonic?

Is the following SanYo laser pickup on Ebay a replacement for the EZ-31?
SF-P101N 16 PIN SANYO LASEREINHEIT mit Mechanismus

Many thanks for your comments
 
I've been following on this great transport thread for awhile and finally finished my unit. Out of the box it sounded quite nice. Thanks for such a great project.

Please allow me to ask a few questions.

How important is the 300 ohms and 100 ohms resister at the digital out ? I notice some use caddock, does resistor quality impact the sonic?

Is the following SanYo laser pickup on Ebay a replacement for the EZ-31?
SF-P101N 16 PIN SANYO LASEREINHEIT mit Mechanismus

Many thanks for your comments

Any component have his own sonic signature and therefore will have a sonic impact. Some components add more signature than others.
Now the question is: ¨Is your system capable to make such difference ?¨.

There is no e-bay link in your message.
For your reference CD mechanics datasheet is on http://vicol-audio.ro/docs/DA11VZ.pdf

Regards,
Tibi
 
Placing the resistor in that place is not the best option because LC78601 pin 22 will be affected as well and this may degrade DSP performance.

The mod can not be performed if LC78601 was soldered.
You need to perform the mod before soldering this chip.

First you need to cut the trace between pin 40 and pin 22 as per top_modification.jpg - left picture.
Than, turn the board on bottom and perform the modification as per bottom_modification - right picture. Instead L7 put a 1K2 resistor or a 2K potentiometer to get your preferred contrast and make a strap between two pads. The strap will bring back Vcc to pin 22.

That´s all.

Regards,
Tibi

Thanks Tibi.

As an additional change, make the cut shown in yellow, scrape the solder mask from two places on each side of the cut, and place the inductor removed in Tibi's instructions (L7) at this location. Now the filtering effect of the inductor and caps is still present.

Steven
 

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How important is the 300 ohms and 100 ohms resister at the digital out ? I notice some use caddock, does resistor quality impact the sonic?

Hi Dmy, allow me to share my humble opinion on the subject. I did a test similar to my "Big capacitor test", where I compared virtually every audio-grade resistor on the market at the Shiga output. I followed my usual methodology for such tests.

I would say the difference between an average resistor and another average resistor is typically small and requires considerable focus to pick up. However, the difference between an average resistor pair, and the best resistor pair (Vishay/Caddock in this case) is quite significant and easily discernible.

Likewise, the difference between the best resistor pair and the attenuator mentioned by Fran (woodturneer-fran) is quite obvious.

My feeling is, output resistors are less important than the critical caps (i.e. filter caps, C916/C43, C8/906); they are more or less on par with the less important caps, and somewhat more important than digital cable, diodes, transformer or puck.

Please have a look at my "Compiled Shigaclone guide" for more detailed descriptions. The guide is not really finished yet, as I did not have as much free time as I had hoped - but perhaps it will be of some use even in its present form.
 
Hi Dmy, allow me to share my humble opinion on the subject. I did a test similar to my "Big capacitor test", where I compared virtually every audio-grade resistor on the market at the Shiga output. I followed my usual methodology for such tests.

I would say the difference between an average resistor and another average resistor is typically small and requires considerable focus to pick up. However, the difference between an average resistor pair, and the best resistor pair (Vishay/Caddock in this case) is quite significant and easily discernible.

Likewise, the difference between the best resistor pair and the attenuator mentioned by Fran (woodturneer-fran) is quite obvious.

My feeling is, output resistors are less important than the critical caps (i.e. filter caps, C916/C43, C8/906); they are more or less on par with the less important caps, and somewhat more important than digital cable, diodes, transformer or puck.

Please have a look at my "Compiled Shigaclone guide" for more detailed descriptions. The guide is not really finished yet, as I did not have as much free time as I had hoped - but perhaps it will be of some use even in its present form.
uncle_leon;

Thank you so much sharing your experience. This gives me the idea of whether I would fork out the money for the caddock or Vishey resistors. I have read your evaluation on on caps. Great and informative information. I did the cap mods done per the instructions. I tried the OS-CON, but the sound tilted to the bright side of my liking and to my ear it is a bit harsh. I settled with Elna and BlackGate.

I will read up on your shigaclone guide.

Again, thanks for sharing your experience.
 
Tibi, I've been sort of following what you and Steven have been doing here, but I must have missed something. It's not quite clear to me what this is supposed to do, or why it may be necessary.

BTW, my stuff is still colored Orange/Brown. What does that mean?

It´s a small mod for LCD contrast adjust.
Your stuff is ready, have this mod already implemented and will be shipped soon.

Regards,
Tibi
 
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Tibi I received the package today
Everything seems ok at first look. I will try to hook them up and check if they work ok.
Quick question. I just hook everything up and it s ready to go? Do I need to do nything else? I remember the mechanism being locked somehow...
Thanks again
 
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