Has anyone tried Corian or similar kitchen counter material? It's relatively heavy, inexpensive and easy to cut with standard woodworking tools (router, saw, drill press).
Also, glass (clear or frosted) in 1/4-inch thicknesses could be a pretty striking feature--though obviously requires commercial-grade diamond-tipped cutting tools.
Also, glass (clear or frosted) in 1/4-inch thicknesses could be a pretty striking feature--though obviously requires commercial-grade diamond-tipped cutting tools.
I love this one! - I am assuming in this variant laser mech would be mounted directly in wood...?
I also support the idea of making one's own base - shipping a piece of granite across the ocean would hardly be cost-effective...
Ideally it would be better to mount the laser mech to the heavy base. I will try to draw an exploded view to show how the chassis is assembled
The diamond drills referenced earlier or carbide tipped drills do well here. Diamond tips used with coolant/lubricant are the way to go for clean edges; carbide drills will leave a fractured edge in granite. If the hole/anchorage is covered this shouldn't be a concern.
The hole for a fastener may be drilled oversize to receive a threaded insert which is epoxied in place with a template. One could make the template or (with care) use the laser mechanism as the template while the epoxy sets.
They would be a suitable materials. Check with your local counter top professional. They will have available the cut-outs from sink installations and be able to assist with the fabrication to suit.
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Thanks apoopoo, that makes sense. So the two aluminium parts are for decoration only?
Plinth Material
I'm not thinking so grandiose as granite. My current thought is Plaster of Paris. It's stiff, it' heavy, it's relatively dead acoustically. Think concrete without the rocks and gravel. I would reinforce it with hemp (the traditional approach) or possibly the fibers that are used in concrete.
This is a traditional molding material that is used in automotive design studios to cast clay models. It's easy to mold to shape. It's easy to cast in threaded fasteners or pockets for legs. When you have everything fitting properly, you can seal it and paint it. Just don't drop it, because it is brittle. But then again, we shouldn't be dropping the CD play either.
Just a thought.
I'm not thinking so grandiose as granite. My current thought is Plaster of Paris. It's stiff, it' heavy, it's relatively dead acoustically. Think concrete without the rocks and gravel. I would reinforce it with hemp (the traditional approach) or possibly the fibers that are used in concrete.
This is a traditional molding material that is used in automotive design studios to cast clay models. It's easy to mold to shape. It's easy to cast in threaded fasteners or pockets for legs. When you have everything fitting properly, you can seal it and paint it. Just don't drop it, because it is brittle. But then again, we shouldn't be dropping the CD play either.
Just a thought.
I successfully used granite for one of my builds. I bought a granite chopping board from my local tesco, and then cut that into 3 using a tile saw. I stacked and then bonded the 3 layers together with silicone. I also added an aluminium layer which I used for legs (the whole thing sits on 3 damped springs). This gives me a very inert and heavy support.
A masonry drill bit in a drill press at reasonable speed and flooded with water made the job very easy. I drilled the holes oversized, then fitted the mech to the 2 standoffs, and then epoxied that into place. In this particular build I also separated the control board from the mech.
I think you all need to consider something more than just mass - I think that mass also needs to be decoupled from the shelf too. I used springs - just one solution.
A masonry drill bit in a drill press at reasonable speed and flooded with water made the job very easy. I drilled the holes oversized, then fitted the mech to the 2 standoffs, and then epoxied that into place. In this particular build I also separated the control board from the mech.
I think you all need to consider something more than just mass - I think that mass also needs to be decoupled from the shelf too. I used springs - just one solution.
Attachments
no special drill bit. any HSS drill bit can do the job.
i just done mine. 6mm copper base, drilled using handheld electric drill.
no special drill bit. any HSS drill bit can do the job.
i just done mine. 6mm copper base, drilled using handheld electric drill.
Do u use any coolant or lubricant while drilling?
My stop at the middle and just make sound but noy getting thru.
Go slow and use water or cutting lubricant. If your drill bit is too hot to touch, you aren't using enough lubricant. Larger drill bits are less of a problem as they can sink away more heat. Small diameter bits can be easily overheated if they are run too fast or with too much pressure. If the bits get overheated they can lose their temper and become dull quickly.