Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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billo44

billo44

Member
Joined 2009
Turbon said:
The stock puck also works as a cover when the laser is parked - hence it's a good idea to keep the same radius.

Brgds
Click to expand...

Good point. I had forgotten that.
Maybe a copy then.

The wooden puck Fran was making looks great but the seasonal temperature and humidity variation here in SE Asia might be too much for most wood to stay true.
I use wood for enclosures though, copying Peter Daniels idea again....
I have some Paulownia wood to try next, matches my living room...

Cheers
Bill
 

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billo44

billo44

Member
Joined 2009
apoopoo999 said:
I was thinking something like this

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


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Click to expand...

That looks nice!
How about a copper top too? Nice warm colour and ages really nicely....
Or champagne coloured anodized aluminum...
Plain aluminum looks good with black wood though...

Just thinking out loud....
I'm happy with the buttons off to one side facing up, but on the front is a nice idea too. Not sure about putting the buttons on the side because I am never sure what I will need to put alongside the transport if I move my listening area around.
If I put the buttons on the front I could use the original switches on the display panel... You got me thinking now tonyptony ....

Bill
 
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TheGimp

TheGimp

Member
Joined 2009
uncle_leon said:
I'm definitely with massimo on that.

I don't quite see the point of discussing the length of the ribbon cable at this stage though (but maybe I'm missing something?...). The way I'm imagining it, we will have a "control PCB", which we will be able to connect to any compatible CD mech in any way we please - with a short ribbon, with a long ribbon,

...snip ...
Click to expand...

One point about the ribbon cable, the longer it is, the more reliable as it will flex less.

This is counter to capacitive coupling and susceptance to radiated interference.

It's a trade off.

Does anyone have a PN from DigiKey or Mouser for such a part? I'm trying to find a 15 pin version for a cd player I'm working on and all I find is standard ribbon cable which is too inflexible.
 
P

Praudio

Member
Joined 2002
apoopoo999 said:
How about an eclosure that has an aluminum top plate mahogany sides and a copper base. I dont think it can be 1/2 rack there wont be enough room for the transformers and shunt regulators. Since its top loading, we should just design a custom size. Or we can even make a seperate housing for the power supplies. This way you wont need to take the whole cd player apart if you want to make changes to the regulators.
Click to expand...

Why copper base ? electrical reason, or only for weight .
 
T

tonyptony

Member
Joined 2006
billo44 said:
Not sure about putting the buttons on the side because I am never sure what I will need to put alongside the transport if I move my listening area around.
If I put the buttons on the front I could use the original switches on the display panel... You got me thinking now tonyptony ....

Bill
Click to expand...

If I got anybody thinking it was an accident! :) I actually meant immediately to one side (either the right or left) of the display on the frontpiece. Hmm, or the display could be set off a bit to the left of the frontpiece, then the switches could go off to the right a bit. That would leave a balanced looking front.

Although I can appreciate why the buttons might be good on the top. After all, it is a top loading transport - and it might be easier to mount switches on a thinner rigid plate than through a hunk of wood.
 
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apoopoo999

Member
Joined 2010
Ed LaFontaine said:
One could also construct a mold and cast with Portland Cement Concrete. The casting may include fasteners as needed. Embed select mineral aggregate in the surface and grind to expose them. Search "concrete counter top"
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If we can get together some people who can help with the production process (like someone who can make the base out of cement or someone who can machine acrylic) we can start a "group buy". I might have someone who can machine the aluminum "top plate" and wood "main body"

The top plate can be waterjet from .25" aluminum.
The main body can be machined from hardwood. But I will have to find a source for 2" thick hardwood.

As for the base, copper is expensive, that 12 x 18 granite is a good alternative. Not sure how we can drill holes in it to mount the laser mechanism.
 
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