Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

As promised I started to build PiTbull-Scaled-Down version for a good audiofriend.

This afternoon I will take the contraption to 2 other audiofriends...ohhhh...I am looking forward to the look on their faces when I start the Skeleton up.

at the moment I am listening to it without the 8V ...or is it V8 :cool: power supply.

BoomboxOpen.jpg


BoomboxGutted.jpg


BoomboxPlaying.jpg


BoomboxV8.jpg
 
Yes, pretty large difference actually!

My first experiment with this was posted back a page or 2 with just a wooden puck that just pushed on - obviously not good enough. After that made the screw on one, and theres quite a difference. Theres a large jump in resolution - now going back to the stock puck the sounds seems thicker, almost muddy by comparison.

I would say if you had a very "lean" sounding system, then the stock one might be easier to listen to. Each sound is more isolated in its own space - which I suppose is more resolution! It actually took a couple of comparisons to get a handle on what I was hearing. The other thing thats interesting, is that where a recording is sibilant (eg a nina simone or some ella fitzgerald/louis armstrong) that sibilance is not as bad - its still there but maybe sounds more natural.

So its well worth while doing if you can. And I could be corrected here yet, but I would think that a smaller puck will work just as well as a heavier one, so maybe try one that matched the drawing that Erik has first.

Maybe Erik you would link or post that drawing again?


Oh yeah - another thing. If you are going to do one in wood, make sure the grain is very even. I made one last night and there was a grain pattern in it - when I ran it on my spare mech there was a lot of vibration - becuase of the different densities in the wood. Thats one of the reasons why smaller might well be better.


Fran

Hi Fran,

You will not believe this but just a second ago while browsing thru my incredible amount of spares (looking for my friend)........I found your puck !!!!!!

I do not know how it got there but I must have ruined your first one and by throwing that away I mixed things up and forgot all about your second one.......:boggled:

HAPPY CAMPER :lifesavr::up:
 
Ok....

it's sitting on granite which in turn sits on damped springs,
reclocked,
using rf attenuators to knock the ttl signal down,
ero 1837 cap for c906,
ebony screw puck,

that's all I can think of right now! But I did many of the mods through the thread as it progressed.


I have the new one playing now just through headphones and I have one problem. The dac seems to slightly lose lock between tracks, I get a little blip at the start of each new track. I don't remember sseeing this before in previous builds, anyone get this and solve it? The other odd thing is that if you press the toc switch with no cd it searches and instead of the customary 00,this one displays "70". Haven't seen that before either.




Fran
 
Hello all,

Yesterday I taken apart a new Boombox and is now playing, and this one is not better than my full modification Shigaclone at the moment.
This I have changed look at this PDF file so you know what I talking about: http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD%20player%20mods.pdf

R4 and R5 I removed and 2 smd caps 3 and 4
E5 removed and a 2 x 33uF Blackgate N super E-cap there for in place.
No jumper from 5A to 5B the print was intact.

Power supply:
1000uF FK Blackgate LM7808 1000uF FK Blackgate, about the last one I have no more Blackgate STD so I used the BG FK.

Rudy
 
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Incorrect link?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-211.html#post2450573

This is a very good super-shunt regulator, but you can improve it a bit by spliting 15R resistor in two (like 4R7 for the 1st +10R for the 2nd) in order to make it RCRC filter instead CRC. Also, put lower capacity, lower ESR (in case you use different caps for filtering) closer to diode bridge. You could use, lower noise, constant impedance (thru tens of MHz) 2V5 LED diode or better still 2 x IR diode for opamp voltage reference and BF24x or such J-fet wired as CCS.

Guys - if I click on Peter's original link back to this Bobken reg. circuit it takes me to this page!! :confused:

EDIT - sorry guys - just tried it in IE6 rather than my usual Google Chrome and it works fine ........................ bloody Google chrome!!!
 
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Hi Peter,

The 1uF/500 Vcap how did that perform against the standard cap that comes with the boombox.

Where you in a situation to evaluate it in a direct comparison
(without other tweaks in one go I mean ;))

My experiences with Vcaps are great...but obviuosly I wonder what it does in this particular place.

I will buy the Vcap for my friend to try it out....unless ofcourse...etc etc
 
I got this problem when changed to mundorf sio 0.01uf
Solder back the original caps then bypass the mundorf
Now the shiga read all the cd, hope you success .......


I have the new one playing now just through headphones and I have one problem. The dac seems to slightly lose lock between tracks, I get a little blip at the start of each new track. I don't remember sseeing this before in previous builds, anyone get this and solve it? The other odd thing is that if you press the toc switch with no cd it searches and instead of the customary 00,this one displays "70". Haven't seen that before either.

Fran
 
Hi guys, a few questions (again)

1. Has anyone determined if there is benefit in separating the mechanism from the PCB?
2. I've unscrewed the two screws that appear to hold them together, but they're still attached to each other, so any ideas?
3. there are lots of wire links on the PCB. Has anyone tried to replace these with low R inductors threaded with ferrite beads? I tried this ages ago on a Rotel 855 cd player and was pleasantly surprised by the drop in noise floor and increase in resolution.

As always, thanks.
Ryan
PS, will be posting results of a Theta data III transport vs Shigaclone shootout shortly.
 
from memory I think the mechanism is held to the pcb by some motor connections too - it's soldered down so these need extending with wires.

this is from memory so i could be wrong ...................

I did separate mine but just to give me more room for component replacement - in theory there should be some benefits but it's likely to be subtle.
 
Yes, you need to desolder the motor connections from the bottom PCB. You will then need to wire back in extension wires or whatever if you are mounting the motors separately. Don't forget that you will also need to extend the lever on the travel switch.

The benefits are very small - although it does give you good access to swap components etc. FWIW, its much more important to mount the whole mech on something really solid on 2 standoffs.

Don't ever remember anyone changing the wire links......


Fran
 
Hi Peter,

The 1uF/500 Vcap how did that perform against the standard cap that comes with the boombox.

Where you in a situation to evaluate it in a direct comparison
(without other tweaks in one go I mean ;))

My experiences with Vcaps are great...but obviously I wonder what it does in this particular place.

I will buy the Vcap for my friend to try it out....unless of course...etc etc

I didn't complete the new transport yet, had some problems with its functioning. Last time I checked V-Cap vs original cap I wasn't sure if V-Cap was better, but this time I installed it directly on a bard, which should be better. Also, my previous setup wasn't optimal, so any findings could be less than accurate.

There is new grade of Teflon V-Caps: CuTF which are clearly better than previous TFTF type.