You mean you only removed the two SMD bypasses? Well, you have a long way to go then... Remove the coil at least, before you test it.
Even without all the mods, Shigaclone will be able to trade blows with some of the less sophisticated transports... But it really needs them all in order to shine.
What power supply are you using?
Even without all the mods, Shigaclone will be able to trade blows with some of the less sophisticated transports... But it really needs them all in order to shine.
What power supply are you using?
Are you sure only the C3 and C4 then replace with the 4,7uF?
http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD%20player%20mods.pdf
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Hi guys, thanks for all the great work; my transport sounds fabulous in standard config.
A few questions:
1. What does C916, C906 and C952 decouple?
2. Why is C952 removed and not replaced?
3. Anyone tried Pete Goudreau's triplets in these positions?
4. Anyone tried OSCON's?
5. herewegoagain has posted pics showing that the spdif output is not rellay improved through reclocking, but that the use of a 300/100 ohm output squares it nicely. Is this consistent with listening tests?
6. Any other caps worth replacing?
7. Any thoughts on the best mechanical approach for the transport? I was going to do an over the top heavy base, but is that the best?
8. Any benefit in using ALW or Teddyregs?
9. Any benefit in using an accurate clock like Guido's etc?
Thanks for any pointers.
Ryan
A few questions:
1. What does C916, C906 and C952 decouple?
2. Why is C952 removed and not replaced?
3. Anyone tried Pete Goudreau's triplets in these positions?
4. Anyone tried OSCON's?
5. herewegoagain has posted pics showing that the spdif output is not rellay improved through reclocking, but that the use of a 300/100 ohm output squares it nicely. Is this consistent with listening tests?
6. Any other caps worth replacing?
7. Any thoughts on the best mechanical approach for the transport? I was going to do an over the top heavy base, but is that the best?
8. Any benefit in using ALW or Teddyregs?
9. Any benefit in using an accurate clock like Guido's etc?
Thanks for any pointers.
Ryan
You can find service manual here: http://www.ferdsaudio.com/RC-EZ31.pdf
The most critical mods have been described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html
I tried Goudreau triplets some 10years ago, but don't do that anymore as my priorities have changed: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...-end-adding-goudreaus-triplets.html#post62939
My CEC TL0 uses mostly Oscons and sounds great, so it might be good idea try them here as well.
I don't use reclocking any longer, critical listening tests indicated that reclocking was actually degrading sound (into more digitized character). I actually converted my TL0 and friend's TL1 from output reclocking into 300/100 output with positive results.
I tried ALW in some other circuit and wasn't impressed much, my preferred regulator for digital is presently this one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-211.html#post2450573 (courtesy of Bobken)
I tried Tent clock in both CEC TL0 and Shigaclone, and never liked it. I got similar results with two other transports whenever Tent clock was used. I still share Romy's opinion on clocks: GoodSoundClub - Romy the Cat's Audio Site - The clock upgrades: my proposals
The most critical mods have been described here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html
I tried Goudreau triplets some 10years ago, but don't do that anymore as my priorities have changed: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...-end-adding-goudreaus-triplets.html#post62939
My CEC TL0 uses mostly Oscons and sounds great, so it might be good idea try them here as well.
I don't use reclocking any longer, critical listening tests indicated that reclocking was actually degrading sound (into more digitized character). I actually converted my TL0 and friend's TL1 from output reclocking into 300/100 output with positive results.
I tried ALW in some other circuit and wasn't impressed much, my preferred regulator for digital is presently this one: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ansport-shigaclone-story-211.html#post2450573 (courtesy of Bobken)
I tried Tent clock in both CEC TL0 and Shigaclone, and never liked it. I got similar results with two other transports whenever Tent clock was used. I still share Romy's opinion on clocks: GoodSoundClub - Romy the Cat's Audio Site - The clock upgrades: my proposals
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Hi Dr H
As shiga talk in the first time by okapi or PD
- removed caps cause it was found degrade the sound
- few builders were tried with oscon but the issue was
the brand of the capacitor here
- Okapi tell us to change bgn/x 47uf, 2x33uf, 2x10uf & 0.1uf
- Eric reported change bgnx 0.1uf to mundorf silver in oil 0.01uf
- PD reported just change bgn 47uf 50v has a good sound
- Eric said that ALWSR better than LM7808
- A few people reported that tricord no 4 was the best for shiga
It will be back to your taste and budget, best regards
Btw if you search for BGF 1000uf 35v I will sell it for US$ 20
I got nichicon fx too 1000uf 63v @ us$ 3
As shiga talk in the first time by okapi or PD
- removed caps cause it was found degrade the sound
- few builders were tried with oscon but the issue was
the brand of the capacitor here
- Okapi tell us to change bgn/x 47uf, 2x33uf, 2x10uf & 0.1uf
- Eric reported change bgnx 0.1uf to mundorf silver in oil 0.01uf
- PD reported just change bgn 47uf 50v has a good sound
- Eric said that ALWSR better than LM7808
- A few people reported that tricord no 4 was the best for shiga
It will be back to your taste and budget, best regards
Btw if you search for BGF 1000uf 35v I will sell it for US$ 20
I got nichicon fx too 1000uf 63v @ us$ 3
This approach works very well for me:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html
It is heavy copper base, mechanism mounted on two standoffs only, wood trim and acrylic top for pleasing appearance mostly
It is heavy copper base, mechanism mounted on two standoffs only, wood trim and acrylic top for pleasing appearance mostly
This is a very good super-shunt regulator, but you can improve it a bit by spliting 15R resistor in two (like 4R7 for the 1st +10R for the 2nd) in order to make it RCRC filter instead CRC. Also, put lower capacity, lower ESR (in case you use different caps for filtering) closer to diode bridge. You could use, lower noise, constant impedance (thru tens of MHz) 2V5 LED diode or better still 2 x IR diode for opamp voltage reference and BF24x or such J-fet wired as CCS.
906 is not a bypass for 906; it's a cap connected to a different pin for a different purpose.
There is certainly possibility of a gain with separate 5V regulator, although LM317 I tried wasn't an improvement.
I'm presently working on a different set of mods, including discreet 5V regulator. I should be able to test it soon.
Attachments
Peter, you never stop, do you? 
You already have what is arguably one of the best CD transports in existence, but that doesn't stop you from trying to make an even better one... And best of all, after doing all the hard work, you come here and give the design for free to anyone who has sense enough to listen to your advice. It never ceases to amaze me.
You already have what is arguably one of the best CD transports in existence, but that doesn't stop you from trying to make an even better one... And best of all, after doing all the hard work, you come here and give the design for free to anyone who has sense enough to listen to your advice. It never ceases to amaze me.
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