I would love a custom-colored puck, but... considering most people spent less than 150 euro on their entire Shigaclone I think the price really is too much. It is too much for me anyway...
If it was around 50 euro I would probably go for it - not so much because of the sonic difference (which is said to be minor) as for the cool looks
. 150 though... I'd rather simply spray-paint my plastic puck and forget about it...
How do you guys get your plastic pucks balanced by the way? Mine has a circular magnet at the centre that's kind of loose fitting - I want to glue it in place, but don't know how to balance it properly... Any suggestions?
If it was around 50 euro I would probably go for it - not so much because of the sonic difference (which is said to be minor) as for the cool looks
. 150 though... I'd rather simply spray-paint my plastic puck and forget about it...How do you guys get your plastic pucks balanced by the way? Mine has a circular magnet at the centre that's kind of loose fitting - I want to glue it in place, but don't know how to balance it properly... Any suggestions?
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There are some comments from 47Labs dealer here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ing-high-end-cd-transport-22.html#post1189723
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/110023-disk-clamping-best.html#post1330555
Personally, I don't find those differences mind blowing and value convenience more. OTOH, if I would be building an ultimate transport, I would certainly install those custom pucs
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ing-high-end-cd-transport-22.html#post1189723
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/110023-disk-clamping-best.html#post1330555
Personally, I don't find those differences mind blowing and value convenience more. OTOH, if I would be building an ultimate transport, I would certainly install those custom pucs
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The main requirement is matching of the motor shaft to the disc table. That can be done on spot, with motor supplied to the fabricator.
However, how this turns out in real life, when disk is spinning, can be only assessed in a working transport. This is a tricky part and I don't think it can be done without trial by error
However, how this turns out in real life, when disk is spinning, can be only assessed in a working transport. This is a tricky part and I don't think it can be done without trial by error
Nice machine, but tolerances should still be specified. If you don't he may not ream the shaft hole but simply drill it. This may or may not yield acceptable results. Tiny tools tend to flex. A drill could wander so you want to use a boring bar. With a boring bar you need would likely need to use a pin set to sneak up on the diameter. Using a reamer would ensure that the diameter is spot on.
Everyone thanks for thinking I have these comments all discussed with the owner of the company.
Also things here on the forum is discussed with the owner again thank for this
This is a professional company and I assume that there are no tolerances in the CD Platform.
Of course there will be a couple tests first done
, so no tolerances in the Cd Platform comes also ensures that the price on the high side.
If this company would not be able to make this platform where else would I have to make it.
Regards,
Rudy
Also things here on the forum is discussed with the owner again thank for this
This is a professional company and I assume that there are no tolerances in the CD Platform.
Of course there will be a couple tests first done
, so no tolerances in the Cd Platform comes also ensures that the price on the high side.If this company would not be able to make this platform where else would I have to make it.
Regards,
Rudy
There is no mechanical component in this world that does not have a dimensional and/or geometrical tolerance, whether it is manufactured by a 1 million Euro CNC machine in Germany, or by a manually operated machine in India. As long as there is no tolerance on the drawing, then it is free tolerance, which is commonly in Europe +/-0.25mm.
C'mon EUVL, the guys are trying to come up with something new and well made, give them a brake. Obviously they are going to keep trying until their pucks come out spot on.
@BMW850 - I would be interested if such puck can be made of wood instead of aluminum? I would simply LOVE a rosewood puck on my CD
@Peter - Tightening the top screw didn't work for me - the magnet had no contact with the top part at all... And also, I somehow managed to misplace the screw when I was doing adjustments
, so I decided to ditch the top part altogether and glue the magnet after all. I balanced it by spinning it slowly on the CD mechanism and making adjustments until I could not see any movement.
I can't comment on the difference in the sound as I wasn't doing any tests, but the mechanism itself is certainly a lot quieter now. I think the puck looks a lot sleeker too, without that el-cheapo plastic top
@BMW850 - I would be interested if such puck can be made of wood instead of aluminum? I would simply LOVE a rosewood puck on my CD
@Peter - Tightening the top screw didn't work for me - the magnet had no contact with the top part at all... And also, I somehow managed to misplace the screw when I was doing adjustments
, so I decided to ditch the top part altogether and glue the magnet after all. I balanced it by spinning it slowly on the CD mechanism and making adjustments until I could not see any movement.I can't comment on the difference in the sound as I wasn't doing any tests, but the mechanism itself is certainly a lot quieter now. I think the puck looks a lot sleeker too, without that el-cheapo plastic top
In the first few pages of this thread, there were a few questions, and answers about mounting the laser mechanism to the "box".
Could we have some more elaboration.
I've heard about springs, but all but a few of the pictures seem to have been deleted from the forum's web site?
In short, if I have it right: a heavy "box" and suspended via springs from the top of the box is the laser mechanism. This box is then resting on a "plinth" via stiff springs?
This is the best I can figure from Peter Daniels posts.
How do "you" do it.
Thanks,
Paul
Could we have some more elaboration.
I've heard about springs, but all but a few of the pictures seem to have been deleted from the forum's web site?
In short, if I have it right: a heavy "box" and suspended via springs from the top of the box is the laser mechanism. This box is then resting on a "plinth" via stiff springs?
This is the best I can figure from Peter Daniels posts.
How do "you" do it.
Thanks,
Paul
The original drawing was posted here, with some additional pics: robimy shigaraki transport / CD Flatfish - Audiostereo.pl - strona 52
The tolerance, although not specified, was 0.1mm or better
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That looked as in attached pic. I later moved to a more simplified design, which brought similar results: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/160373-cd-transport.html
Attachments
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Unable to get my hands on a ez31 (today I got an email that it has shipped),
yesterday i did major surgery on a sony boombox.
It uses a LC78646 chip. I found the chip despriptions, and can find the D out on it.
I know it won't be like the "original" Shigaclone, but I should be able to modify, and improve it right, or will it just be better junk?
Assuming I can figure out the control buttons, and redo the power supply, replace the caps on the board.
One small difficulty, I don't see anything that looks like a clock on the board.
I assume I follow the traces for X out and X in and that should lead me to the clock?
Second small difficulty, everything leaving and coming to (power) the laser circuit board does so on one 14 segment ribbon cable. The connector is labelled on the board for all the points with two different voltages.
I assume I'd leave all of the wires "correct" except what normally goes out to the analogue section, and what comes in voltage wise (which would be supplied by an improved supply)
I'd like to know if it's possible to do a different boombox something more readily available, maybe any boombox?.
Thanks,
Paul
yesterday i did major surgery on a sony boombox.
It uses a LC78646 chip. I found the chip despriptions, and can find the D out on it.
I know it won't be like the "original" Shigaclone, but I should be able to modify, and improve it right, or will it just be better junk?
Assuming I can figure out the control buttons, and redo the power supply, replace the caps on the board.
One small difficulty, I don't see anything that looks like a clock on the board.
I assume I follow the traces for X out and X in and that should lead me to the clock?
Second small difficulty, everything leaving and coming to (power) the laser circuit board does so on one 14 segment ribbon cable. The connector is labelled on the board for all the points with two different voltages.
I assume I'd leave all of the wires "correct" except what normally goes out to the analogue section, and what comes in voltage wise (which would be supplied by an improved supply)
I'd like to know if it's possible to do a different boombox something more readily available, maybe any boombox?.
Thanks,
Paul
Hi folks.
I was wondering - being as Black Gates are becoming virtually impossible to buy for reasonable prices now - what caps people are using before/after the LM7808 regulator in their Shigaclones?
I'm currently using Rubycon ZL. However I remember reading recently that the capacitor directly after a regulator should NOT be ultra-low ESR, and I think the Rubycon ZL is.....
Any recommendations for a suitable capacitor here please?
Cheers,
- John
I was wondering - being as Black Gates are becoming virtually impossible to buy for reasonable prices now - what caps people are using before/after the LM7808 regulator in their Shigaclones?
I'm currently using Rubycon ZL. However I remember reading recently that the capacitor directly after a regulator should NOT be ultra-low ESR, and I think the Rubycon ZL is.....
Any recommendations for a suitable capacitor here please?
Cheers,
- John
Hi johnm,
I wont bother tell you how they sound in mine as YMMV. I have Elna SilmicII 1000uF 35V + BG 1000uF before regulator and Elna SilmicII 1000uF 25V after LM7808. SilmicII are in the big leagues for a fraction of the price. When comparing "best", it's no more a question about how bad or good they are, but a matter of taste. For me, these are the best value caps I know of for Hi-end.
Have fun...
I wont bother tell you how they sound in mine as YMMV. I have Elna SilmicII 1000uF 35V + BG 1000uF before regulator and Elna SilmicII 1000uF 25V after LM7808. SilmicII are in the big leagues for a fraction of the price. When comparing "best", it's no more a question about how bad or good they are, but a matter of taste. For me, these are the best value caps I know of for Hi-end.
Have fun...
Hmm to be honest I hated Silmic II capacitors when I used them in my 'SKA' GD150D amp - a very lifeless sound, at least to my ears. But I don't know if that was because of Silmics in the PSU, or in the signal path.
I really just want to know what the best kind of cap would be after the regulator - would Panasonic FC be OK, or is that too low ESR as well? I don't really want to experiment here, I'd rather have the correct part for the correct job.
Thanks.
I really just want to know what the best kind of cap would be after the regulator - would Panasonic FC be OK, or is that too low ESR as well? I don't really want to experiment here, I'd rather have the correct part for the correct job.
Thanks.