Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I think i will have another go with those surface mount caps in the power supply that i failed with before. feeling brave , but need to make advancements in this project as very little seems to have been accomplished since the original ideas were first advertised and no one appears to have tried the Piezobees!
 
audiojoy said:
... and no one appears to have tried the Piezobees!

I will, but in a few weeks. I've ordered a few piezo models from digikey as different diameters and resonant frequencies. Anyways I needed a backup for my present accelerometer when measuring cabinets. Presently I'm starting the Shigaclone chassis, when finished I'll finalize sound tweaking, the piezo's will be part of it.
 
shigy mods

I mounted the shigy on a 4" thick mdf base and installed the crystal. I used 4 nylon spacers and brass screws. I mounted the tx in a second box. Sounds a lot better. Bass is tighter and symblence is reduced. Midrange is very sweet. I am going to use 4 wood blocks to mount the mech but the nylon spacers will have to do for now. Anyone have a remote control they can spare? Mine didnt come with one.
 

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Hi all,
I have some problem with my shigaclone , I using some month ago but now it control button is not work , the remote still work fine . I take a look at their schematic the button is connect to IC LC78601R , I already check the cable it is OK. My question is
1.Any possible that IC LC78601R failed in some function ?
2.If their failed whare can I buy IC LC78601R to replace it?
3.Any possible to modify CDROM controller that sale in Ebay to replace the control button , remote and display function?
Or any idea to check and fix this problem .
Thanks.
 
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This is different than my version, (so I have no idea what that wire does, guessing it is part of the backlight circuit?) but I think you could mount the display against the panel without shorting this. It looks to me like it is lower than the display glass.

Be careful not to flex the ribbon excessively, an expensive lesson I learned the hard way.
 
kevinkr said:
This is different than my version, (so I have no idea what that wire does, guessing it is part of the backlight circuit?) but I think you could mount the display against the panel without shorting this. It looks to me like it is lower than the display glass.

Be careful not to flex the ribbon excessively, an expensive lesson I learned the hard way.

Kevin,

Thanks for your input there. :) It must be part of the backlight or in some way the liquid crystal display, I have no knowledge there. The service manual does not show it either, unless I haven't understood the schematic correctly.

The wire, carton and staple are installed in front of the clear plastic layer so this adds 1/16". I'm hesitant to install it original since the staple being the first part in contact with my stainless steel front panel. Adding insulator like electrical tape will add thickness again and flex the clear layer excessively I guess or with time, it could detach from display. I'm taking your warning in consideration here. Thanks for that.

I would have liked to install the display directly to the back of my front panel but maybe I wont have choice to put dual sided tape in between. This would add depth to the display but I guess it would clear the problem.

Peter have you got an idea of the use of this wire?

Thanks guys!
 
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I have removed the wire from both of my units (31 and 32). I believe I traced it out to ground and my assumption was static protection on the original unit. Also removed the thin plastic, which was probably both protection and the source of the static on the original box.
 
hayenc said:
I have removed the wire from both of my units (31 and 32). I believe I traced it out to ground and my assumption was static protection on the original unit. Also removed the thin plastic, which was probably both protection and the source of the static on the original box.


Morfeus said:


this is exactly what the cable does. I wouldn't remove it.

Thanks for your help fellows! It makes alot of sense. I'll fill in with a thin foam spacer.

Guy