Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

....and a square out of the topplate in order to stay as miniature as possible but still practical by unplugging if you want the display panel loose...or switching the led off (still a freak).....
 

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I swear, if I tried to build something as complex as this, I would be at it for years. I guess it has alot to do with an old house and a 4 year old, but still. I am amazed at the quality of your workmanship as well as the time you are able to put to it. Or maybe it is the efficiency with which you work.

Nice stuff.
 
...I agree it is very time consuming...with in between my normal day job to earn money for my mortgage and hobbies... :D

Anyway I have ordered a nice cable the Oyaide Tunami for my transport...a run from the cd-transport straight to the
house-metercabinet.....approx. 5 meters.....the order will take a couple of weeks, so a christmas present on its way.....:Present:

BTW anybody ever experimented with powerchords on the Shiga....it does make an audible difference...my winner is the Tunami with a tad more realistic timbre on the instruments and more micro/micro dynamics...I cannot discover a minus...worth to give it a try ;)
 

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Hello all ! ;)

(In last 5 months) Anybody know if have new UPDATED version of OKAPI PDF file for this player ?

* what's best sounds crystal for this player ? stock, Citizen, external ?

* what's back light Led resistor value after regulator ?

* with or without Digital output resistor ?


what's your best result after many test ? :)


THANKS ! :D
 
Most use the citizen crystal.

Best thing to do is install a simple 20K pot for the LED and then you can adjust it to whatever level of brightness you want.

Riken or Dale 392/75R on the S/PDIF outputs.


I can't remember the last version number of okapis file, but it hasn't changed in recent times. Algar-emi has compiled a list of the mods so far with some useful information on other things like the chassis and springs etc. I think thats called version 2.

Do a search on his posts in this thread and you will find it. If you email me I will forward all of them on to you.


Fran
 
Hi, i'm trying this out at the moment but have run into my first problems. I'm not 'modding' the player yet i simply want to run it as a transport to see how it sounds then go from there. So far i've taken it all apart and mounted the PSU board, the analogue board, the LCD and the transport onto some wood and it works perfect through the headphone jack so everything is still fine.

I tried taking signal from the DOUT and ground on the transport board into my DAC but i'm not getting any noise- and the headphone out still works. Is there something i need to disconnect before the digital out start to work?

How much of the stuff on the analogue board can i chop away? I only want the power to the LCD and the transport :confused:
 
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r8833 said:
hi,

try page 2 post#28..really good guide..use 390/75r on s/pdif out..some people have reported without resistors ..signal will not lock on to dac


That 75 ohm actually should be 93.1 ohms which in conjunction with 392 (1%) will give you very close to 75 ohm source impedance to match your spdif cable. These are the values I am using in my now 6 month old RC-EZ32 based version of the Shigaclone.
 
It is the turn of The Infamous Blue Led today..:D

Besides the tweak it is for me a very helpful light ''cause it shows exactly puck and platform in a see-through manner so I can easily mount and dismount the puck on the thread...

Out of a block ebony I make half a moon to follow the lines of the ...uhhh... turntable...:devilr:
 

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