Hi,
1. I manage to find some JVC RC-EZ31A series lying around. I can Also find EZ33, EZ35, EZ38. but I guess 31A is the most suitable one right.
2. Now I got this fever. Can I know if someone can sell me those components (exclude the EI transformer, those are heavy) required for this Shigaclone mod. I can pay by Paypal.
rgds.
1. I manage to find some JVC RC-EZ31A series lying around. I can Also find EZ33, EZ35, EZ38. but I guess 31A is the most suitable one right.
2. Now I got this fever. Can I know if someone can sell me those components (exclude the EI transformer, those are heavy) required for this Shigaclone mod. I can pay by Paypal.
rgds.
Tripmaster said:I have a daft question...
I have dismantled my Shigaclone again and have decided to attached a BNC socket to the rear of the drive.
Peter provided the following picture and I just wanted to check something with you.
As you can see there is a 300ohm resistor attached to the dig-out and a 100ohm connected to the TOC switch ground. Do I attach the core of the coax to these resistors? It seems strange that ground and signal are connected together.
Thanks
Richard
Signal (core) goes to the point between the two resistors and the shield goes to ground. Be very careful not to rip the lands (traces) off of the board given the way you have mounted the resistors.
Outstanding work Erik, truly beautiful!!
Tonight I made a new puck. I decided to concentrate on getting the centre correct on the centre pin of the spindle - turns out its a fairly odd size, just under 6mm. Anyway, I made one up and it ain't completely true, but it better than the original. The other thing is that I used 3 magnets and I think the pull is a little stronger than the original. The new puck is made from aluminium and undoubtedly weighs a little more than the original (although not that much). I wil have to weight both and see the difference. I hope to listen with both later and see do I hear any difference.
Just like before, its hard to follow Eriks posts!!! however, for those of us who are just slumming it here are some of my own meagre advances over the last week or so:
Whole shot of the interior:
Close up of the transport:
And the PS:
This one shows the damped springs:
This is the inside of the lid - and just like all of the chassis, its damped to take any ring out of it:
Lastly the completely player. Well, thats if its ever finished! I still have to add in teh new crystal and I have an ero cap to go ont eh output.
So what was the final consensus on the output cap. I know Peter seemed to prefer the Ero cap, but I think others tried a large number and preferred the stock one. Whats the current thinking?
Fran
Tonight I made a new puck. I decided to concentrate on getting the centre correct on the centre pin of the spindle - turns out its a fairly odd size, just under 6mm. Anyway, I made one up and it ain't completely true, but it better than the original. The other thing is that I used 3 magnets and I think the pull is a little stronger than the original. The new puck is made from aluminium and undoubtedly weighs a little more than the original (although not that much). I wil have to weight both and see the difference. I hope to listen with both later and see do I hear any difference.
Just like before, its hard to follow Eriks posts!!! however, for those of us who are just slumming it here are some of my own meagre advances over the last week or so:
Whole shot of the interior:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Close up of the transport:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And the PS:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This one shows the damped springs:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is the inside of the lid - and just like all of the chassis, its damped to take any ring out of it:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Lastly the completely player. Well, thats if its ever finished! I still have to add in teh new crystal and I have an ero cap to go ont eh output.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
So what was the final consensus on the output cap. I know Peter seemed to prefer the Ero cap, but I think others tried a large number and preferred the stock one. Whats the current thinking?
Fran
Erik,
Super nice, fits in with the rather nice decor..
Woodturner- fran, cool, some significant improvements over what I did which was basically just lots of mass in a very cramped box.
Suppose I should take new and better photographs of mine since I got the new camera.. Will next time I open 'er up..
Super nice, fits in with the rather nice decor..
Woodturner- fran, cool, some significant improvements over what I did which was basically just lots of mass in a very cramped box.
Suppose I should take new and better photographs of mine since I got the new camera.. Will next time I open 'er up..
Tripmaster said:
The key is you will now wire it correctly and this will prevent you having a very exciting moment when you go to plug it into your dac.. I would recommend you pick up the ground from the same connection that the spdif signal is on.. You will see there is 5V, GND and SPDIF all on the 3 pin connector.. Just make sure you get the right connections.
kevinkr said:
All done!
Display print?
you mean the LCD readout? - its just the standard JVC one! I kept it in its white plastic holder but mounted that to the inside of the case. LED is the standard one too, just have it coming of the supply after the diodes and through a 20k pot for brightness adjustment.
Thanks for the comments guys. Sounds really really good with Peters NOS DAC. I also made up an 8' BNC>>BNC cable but to behonest I couldn't really detect any difference between that and the 8" long one I was using before (and that was BNC>>RCA with an adaptor into Peters DAC). The case is standard 430mm by about 300mm deep and sits nicely on the rack.
Thanks to all for the help so far!
Crystal mods and output cap mods yet to come, and maybe a replacement of the PS supply with Peters one with all blackgates and MSR diodes. Also need to remove the ferrites from the mains lines.
Fran
you mean the LCD readout? - its just the standard JVC one! I kept it in its white plastic holder but mounted that to the inside of the case. LED is the standard one too, just have it coming of the supply after the diodes and through a 20k pot for brightness adjustment.
Thanks for the comments guys. Sounds really really good with Peters NOS DAC. I also made up an 8' BNC>>BNC cable but to behonest I couldn't really detect any difference between that and the 8" long one I was using before (and that was BNC>>RCA with an adaptor into Peters DAC). The case is standard 430mm by about 300mm deep and sits nicely on the rack.
Thanks to all for the help so far!
Crystal mods and output cap mods yet to come, and maybe a replacement of the PS supply with Peters one with all blackgates and MSR diodes. Also need to remove the ferrites from the mains lines.
Fran
Tonight I spent some time changing that c906 output cap between the original one and the ERO one from Peter.
Its amazing just how much difference this cap makes. With the original 'lytic, the midrange, vocals etc are forward, but not as distinct. The sound is warmer, bit more lucious. With the ero cap its a little more refined, with the vocals having more clarity but at the expense of a little bit of warmth and fluidity.
So I'm still a bit undecided on which to live with. I now know what you went though johnm!! I socketed the position so that I can change in and out easily. I also changed the crystal, but to be honest, could not hear any difference with it. I also added some damping material to the frame of the CD mech, also heard no difference.
So my question for those who have changed out the original cap for others, especially the ERO cap:
Did you notice a burn in time, did you notice what I heard and what did you leave in there long term? I'm wondering if some of that fluidity will come back in with time, or should I move on to another cap?
Fran
Its amazing just how much difference this cap makes. With the original 'lytic, the midrange, vocals etc are forward, but not as distinct. The sound is warmer, bit more lucious. With the ero cap its a little more refined, with the vocals having more clarity but at the expense of a little bit of warmth and fluidity.
So I'm still a bit undecided on which to live with. I now know what you went though johnm!! I socketed the position so that I can change in and out easily. I also changed the crystal, but to be honest, could not hear any difference with it. I also added some damping material to the frame of the CD mech, also heard no difference.
So my question for those who have changed out the original cap for others, especially the ERO cap:
Did you notice a burn in time, did you notice what I heard and what did you leave in there long term? I'm wondering if some of that fluidity will come back in with time, or should I move on to another cap?
Fran
The C906 should be done last, after the voicing of PS and all the other caps on a main board, and after the enclosure is finalized. I use plenty of BG N's so lack of warmth and fluidity was not my concern. That cap is a final touch, sort of icing on a cake
Some people preferred the original cap, some like MIT RTX.
Some people preferred the original cap, some like MIT RTX.
woodturner-fran said:
Hi Fran
I noticed the same sonic changes when removing C906 and the crystal. My transport has been running for sometime and I think you will find the sound improves considerably with time.
I have thought about reverting to the original two components over the last couple of days. I suggest you connect it to you main setup and let everything burn in, when you are familiar with the sound replace and compare.
I hope that helps
Richard
