Here's a simple way to remove new table from a shaft. I used 1.86mm drill bit mounted in a wooden block. The drillbit goes through the hole on top of the puck; by pressing the wood piece with your palm (against the shaft) and pulling with fingers the bottom of delrin puck, it can be safely removed without damaging anything.
Any attempt of using shims, screwdriver or anything similar between motor and puck, to push the puck out, will damage the shaft mount.
Any attempt of using shims, screwdriver or anything similar between motor and puck, to push the puck out, will damage the shaft mount.
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Alright, it's installed now. I used multiple 1mm drill bits as spacers to set disc table height. Please note that 1mm is not from the frame but from motor bearing plate which is somewhat above frame surface.
That distance is 10mm for the original disc table supplied with a transport.
There is some wobbling and you can notice it by the amount of movement the laser lense does. However, I think it's still rasonably small.
That distance is 10mm for the original disc table supplied with a transport.
There is some wobbling and you can notice it by the amount of movement the laser lense does. However, I think it's still rasonably small.
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That's my present setup. I recently installed some foam material around the inside edges of copper/bronze frame to prevent dust collection from underneath the acrylic top. The TOC switch is elegantly installed on a side. The output cable (6ft Belkin Synapse) is soldered directly to resistor divider (300R Vishay/100R Caddock)
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About the sound with a new clamp, well, it seems like it is an improvement.
The sound is more effortless, there is more dimentionality and separation. The resolution seems to be improved as well. The bass better defined and I'm noticing the improvement in accoustic space.
The sound may be a bit more forward, but it's not bothering.
Overall, it is probably an improvement similar to installation of a new clock, without typical drawbacks of those clocks
The sound is more effortless, there is more dimentionality and separation. The resolution seems to be improved as well. The bass better defined and I'm noticing the improvement in accoustic space.
The sound may be a bit more forward, but it's not bothering.
Overall, it is probably an improvement similar to installation of a new clock, without typical drawbacks of those clocks
Hello Peter
That sounds a bit more re-assuring...patience then for me...
It still makes me wonder why there is still a wobble though....
Peter how did you press the platform in place onto the drill bits...did you use a drill chuck....I am still figuring out what the least pressure will be on the shaft..
That sounds a bit more re-assuring...patience then for me...
It still makes me wonder why there is still a wobble though....
Peter how did you press the platform in place onto the drill bits...did you use a drill chuck....I am still figuring out what the least pressure will be on the shaft..
I did press it by hand with a top cap on. It's a good idea to run spare shaft few times trough, to loosen hole a bit, as it's rather tight; for that you may use a chuck and go slowly with rotary motion.
If the shaft hole is made last, after the table is fabricated, some wobble is always possible, deppending on accuracy of the hole.
If I can suggest something to fabricators, why not do the final sweep on the lathe with a table mounted on a 2mm shaft, you only need to re-machine the surface of the table supporting the actual disc. That should provide perfect horizontal alignement, with regards to the shaft.
Another thing, the cap side wall should be also re-done, when mounted on a table with a spacer of the same thickness as the CD. That would provide perfect centering, presently it is a bit off and probably due to thread imperfections.
If the shaft hole is made last, after the table is fabricated, some wobble is always possible, deppending on accuracy of the hole.
If I can suggest something to fabricators, why not do the final sweep on the lathe with a table mounted on a 2mm shaft, you only need to re-machine the surface of the table supporting the actual disc. That should provide perfect horizontal alignement, with regards to the shaft.
Another thing, the cap side wall should be also re-done, when mounted on a table with a spacer of the same thickness as the CD. That would provide perfect centering, presently it is a bit off and probably due to thread imperfections.
dantwomey said:
I have some ALWSR regulators but as an alternative I'm going to try something along the lines of a TL431 circuit for the 5v portion of this circuit. Or, other circuits I've been looking at is the one's discussed in Pedja Rogic's Gainclone power supplies.
Regards,
Dan
audio1st said:
Some additional comments about clamping can be found here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1330555&highlight="magnetic"#post1330555
Okay Peter you have persuaded me to continue with it.
I mounted it on a 2mm drill and used a piece of stainless steel to shave the table surface and the puck. It has worked. The material seems to work very easily.
I had given up on it and had nothing to lose and am not telling anyone else to do the same..
I mounted it on a 2mm drill and used a piece of stainless steel to shave the table surface and the puck. It has worked. The material seems to work very easily.
I had given up on it and had nothing to lose and am not telling anyone else to do the same..
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audio1st said:
Changing discs is realatively easy, providing the thread on a puck is loose. Originally it's not, and I run M6x1 tap many times through to loosen threads. When this is done, all it takes when mounting a disc is to hold it with one hand, lightly pressing against the table, while spinning the puck with other hand; it should basically go by itself and when facing resistance the puck should lock onto a disc. Same for removing.
I noticed that the thread in my set was a bit misaligned and the puck was making contact sideway first, only when tightening excessively the gap was disappearing. That could be a reason for some wobble also; loosening the thread should help here as well.
