Hi Puffin,
If it's like the RCEZ32 version it should be marked right on the board.
Let us know how it sounds - the specs were not too promising looking which is why I have not tried it so far. (Plus I built it as a companion to my new dac.) Who knows though, earlier versions of the Shigaraki have occasionally been modified to bring the audio out, and apparently they sound fairly good.
I thought the orange wire on pin 1 odd too, I think it is just there to reduce the likelihood of incorrect insertion on the soldered end during assembly.
I don't believe you need to make any additional connections for power either. The DAC is part of the DSP chip and unless you deliberately deleted the analog supply to that part of the chip it should be plug and play.
If it's like the RCEZ32 version it should be marked right on the board.
Let us know how it sounds - the specs were not too promising looking which is why I have not tried it so far. (Plus I built it as a companion to my new dac.) Who knows though, earlier versions of the Shigaraki have occasionally been modified to bring the audio out, and apparently they sound fairly good.
I thought the orange wire on pin 1 odd too, I think it is just there to reduce the likelihood of incorrect insertion on the soldered end during assembly.
I don't believe you need to make any additional connections for power either. The DAC is part of the DSP chip and unless you deliberately deleted the analog supply to that part of the chip it should be plug and play.
audio out
Hi, Puffin
Your pinout is correct (well the orange wire is L-Ch). I connected my rig this way for testing and it worked OK, but I have not removed the choke (nor any other component).
According to the schematic you should be able to remove the choke and connect the PSU there but it seems to me that some components are actually connected to the ground on the "connector side" of the choke (C967 f.ex.). So maybe it it could be a good idea to put a jumper in place of the ground part of the choke. I don´t believe that anything would be damaged if run without the jumper, its just always so much nicer to trace and figure out what you disconnect
I have not still connected the rig to any decent system so I cannot judge the sound.
Joi
Hi, Puffin
Your pinout is correct (well the orange wire is L-Ch). I connected my rig this way for testing and it worked OK, but I have not removed the choke (nor any other component).
According to the schematic you should be able to remove the choke and connect the PSU there but it seems to me that some components are actually connected to the ground on the "connector side" of the choke (C967 f.ex.). So maybe it it could be a good idea to put a jumper in place of the ground part of the choke. I don´t believe that anything would be damaged if run without the jumper, its just always so much nicer to trace and figure out what you disconnect
I have not still connected the rig to any decent system so I cannot judge the sound.
Joi
Hi,
I try to follow Okapi PDF recipe. There are no brand for the caps on the transport board. What do you use. Here is my shopping list, tell me what you think (it is not ordered now, so please feel free to comment).
Main transport
E1 10uF BG N 50V pcX
E2 33uF BG N 16V pcX
E3 4.7uF BG PK 50V pcX
E4 4.7uF BG PK 50V pcX
E5 47uF BG N 50V pcX
E6 ???
E7 Citizen 300-8441 crystal from DK 300-8441-ND
A1 Riken 75R pcX
A2 caddock mk132 pcX
I don't know what to do with the E6, help...
PSU
LM7808CT-ND digikey
PSU cap bg std 1000/25 pcX
PSU cap bg fk 2200/35 pcX
MSR860G digikey
HM548-ND digikey transfo
Do I miss something?
P.S. Sorry for the double post, I think my first attempt came in the middle of a very interesting trend on a beutiful clamp...
I try to follow Okapi PDF recipe. There are no brand for the caps on the transport board. What do you use. Here is my shopping list, tell me what you think (it is not ordered now, so please feel free to comment).
Main transport
E1 10uF BG N 50V pcX
E2 33uF BG N 16V pcX
E3 4.7uF BG PK 50V pcX
E4 4.7uF BG PK 50V pcX
E5 47uF BG N 50V pcX
E6 ???
E7 Citizen 300-8441 crystal from DK 300-8441-ND
A1 Riken 75R pcX
A2 caddock mk132 pcX
I don't know what to do with the E6, help...
PSU
LM7808CT-ND digikey
PSU cap bg std 1000/25 pcX
PSU cap bg fk 2200/35 pcX
MSR860G digikey
HM548-ND digikey transfo
Do I miss something?
P.S. Sorry for the double post, I think my first attempt came in the middle of a very interesting trend on a beutiful clamp...
The picture represent my original changes:
As you see, all caps are BG N, but of course other types will work fine too. As I suggested before, don't change those caps right away, build PS first, get the idea of the sound and then slowly change caps on main board one by one, monitiring the changes. Some people preferred not to change any of caps here.
There's an error in pdf file for E6, that cap is 0.1uF originally, I changed it for ERO 47nF and presently use 10nF (ERO 1830)
Your PS component list looks OK.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
As you see, all caps are BG N, but of course other types will work fine too. As I suggested before, don't change those caps right away, build PS first, get the idea of the sound and then slowly change caps on main board one by one, monitiring the changes. Some people preferred not to change any of caps here.
There's an error in pdf file for E6, that cap is 0.1uF originally, I changed it for ERO 47nF and presently use 10nF (ERO 1830)
Your PS component list looks OK.
kevinkr. The EZ31 I was using is completely standard, nothing removed, nothing up-graded.
In comparison to a Sony Playstation1 and a 2 other stand-alone CD players, I felt the sound quality was just about average and in no way as good as when used as a transport and separate Dac.
QED (a U.K company) manufactured a Dac in the early 90's called the Digit. This is what I use as a Dac.
Does this clarify things ?
In comparison to a Sony Playstation1 and a 2 other stand-alone CD players, I felt the sound quality was just about average and in no way as good as when used as a transport and separate Dac.
QED (a U.K company) manufactured a Dac in the early 90's called the Digit. This is what I use as a Dac.
Does this clarify things ?
Back to my personal comparison:
Shigaclone vs. Studer D730
This time both devices SPDIF out, connected to the same DAC.
Short conclusion: I never compared two devices with such a small difference!
I would absolutely not be able to do a blind test, I could not tell you wich transport is running.
Do I need more words?
To Zigis: did you recieve my mail from saturday 11 ? It seems, we have difficulties to get in contact.
Franz
/Edit: add a foto
Shigaclone vs. Studer D730
This time both devices SPDIF out, connected to the same DAC.
Short conclusion: I never compared two devices with such a small difference!
I would absolutely not be able to do a blind test, I could not tell you wich transport is running.
Do I need more words?
To Zigis: did you recieve my mail from saturday 11 ? It seems, we have difficulties to get in contact.
Franz
/Edit: add a foto
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
lay-out for drilling
It occurred to me that the top of the boom box case that I thought was trash has some value. I picked it up off of the shop floor, where I expect the variety of refuse that lands there to take itself out to the curb ...
there are 4 plastic posts on the underside which served as guides for the green plastic dampers of the laser mechanism. One can measure directly from them to determine the c-c spacing for the corner dampers.
It remains to be determined if that part of refuse will stay around any longer. It now rests on the dining room table...
It occurred to me that the top of the boom box case that I thought was trash has some value. I picked it up off of the shop floor, where I expect the variety of refuse that lands there to take itself out to the curb ...
there are 4 plastic posts on the underside which served as guides for the green plastic dampers of the laser mechanism. One can measure directly from them to determine the c-c spacing for the corner dampers.
It remains to be determined if that part of refuse will stay around any longer. It now rests on the dining room table...
Re: lay-out for drilling
can you remind me what modifications you went with?
i hope you like the Studer?
would you mind posting those measurements here?
also, are you still considering loading your suspension springs with elastic? i bring this up because i am wondering why you wouldn't just choose a spring with different specifications in the first place. Is that you have some springs on hand that you want to use?
Franz Gysi said:
can you remind me what modifications you went with?
i hope you like the Studer?
Ed LaFontaine said:
would you mind posting those measurements here?
also, are you still considering loading your suspension springs with elastic? i bring this up because i am wondering why you wouldn't just choose a spring with different specifications in the first place. Is that you have some springs on hand that you want to use?
Sorry, Okapi
I cannot tell it exactly right now, as I did not make a foto and cannot remember exactly.
Just little modification: removed the choke, new bypass caps (Oscon or Silmic), voltage divider for SPDIF out.
And, of course, a little PSU 7808 based.
Actually I build up another breadboard with my second drive to compare modifications step by step.
Franz
okapi,
good question regarding the suspension, one that I've yet to answer to my satisfaction...let's enlist all here with their suggestions....as he runs to get scales...for those of you chained to english measure, get your calculator out...
8.62 mm x 6.62 mm; the long dimension is parallel to the laser travel (call that the x-dimension). The plastic posts which go through the dampers are 0.55 mm in diameter. 0.65 mm would begin being a "snug" fit. Forgive my anality with dimensions. I have worked as a surveyor in construction. Verniers and such. My eyeball is calibrated .
Regarding loading the suspension...here's where I am...
A pair of springs under the green dampers that are furthest from the cd drive motor.
A pair of springs outside the other dampers. The distance from the dampers closest to the cd drive motor to be (8.62 mm / 1.62 (golden mean) = 5.32 mm). So, I plan to have my springs 13.94 mm apart (x-dim). I haven't determined/suggested y-dim's for the springs.
back to loading...some adjustment will be beneficial. Both for tuning resonant vibrations and leveling.
Main Reason to "load" the suspension: 1) I don't have the metal available that Peter uses. I'll use wood. 2) Angling the tension in the mix imparts torsional stability as well as axial.
Screw hooks are the best I've found that allow adjustment.
Springs will do the trick. However while I'm figuring this out I'll use o-rings because they are available locally in a wide range of x-sections and lengths, and they're cheap: ~$0.10 each. Once I arrive at a "tuned" suspension with o-rings I think I would question the value to convert to springs.
Now, if an adjustment scheme/mechanism is available for tension spring attachment, that might tip the balance/interest in their direction.
good question regarding the suspension, one that I've yet to answer to my satisfaction...let's enlist all here with their suggestions....as he runs to get scales...for those of you chained to english measure, get your calculator out...
8.62 mm x 6.62 mm; the long dimension is parallel to the laser travel (call that the x-dimension). The plastic posts which go through the dampers are 0.55 mm in diameter. 0.65 mm would begin being a "snug" fit. Forgive my anality with dimensions. I have worked as a surveyor in construction. Verniers and such. My eyeball is calibrated
.Regarding loading the suspension...here's where I am...
A pair of springs under the green dampers that are furthest from the cd drive motor.
A pair of springs outside the other dampers. The distance from the dampers closest to the cd drive motor to be (8.62 mm / 1.62 (golden mean) = 5.32 mm). So, I plan to have my springs 13.94 mm apart (x-dim). I haven't determined/suggested y-dim's for the springs.
back to loading...some adjustment will be beneficial. Both for tuning resonant vibrations and leveling.
Main Reason to "load" the suspension: 1) I don't have the metal available that Peter uses. I'll use wood. 2) Angling the tension in the mix imparts torsional stability as well as axial.
Screw hooks are the best I've found that allow adjustment.
Springs will do the trick. However while I'm figuring this out I'll use o-rings because they are available locally in a wide range of x-sections and lengths, and they're cheap: ~$0.10 each. Once I arrive at a "tuned" suspension with o-rings I think I would question the value to convert to springs.
Now, if an adjustment scheme/mechanism is available for tension spring attachment, that might tip the balance/interest in their direction.
