The circuit Kevin posted for the 32 has 3 different regulators for the required voltages. I have my supply done following that schematic and it uses a separate supply for the 8 volts driving the assembly. Should be hooking it up tomorrow. But of course, I won't have much to 'compare' it with.
johnm said:
I would stick with something close to what Peter recommends - he's pretty sharp. My mod documentation is for the RCEZ32 based version which uses chips from the same chip family but has an outboard micro-controller. The micro requires a 6V supply which is always on, and it manages everything including power to the mechanism. There is a 12V regulator and the 8V regulator that runs the mechanism - these are switched by the micro. I added the 12V regulator in order to mitigate the led flicker when the motors in the transport draw lots of current during seek and acceleration modes.
I have not modified the internal 5V supply on either of my mechanism/board sets because I found some odd sensitivities to configuration here - everything I tried here made the sound worse, not better, so I have even reinstalled the stock 1000uF and 470uF caps in those locations.
Today I did upgrade the caps on the output of the 8V supply to 1000uF standard black gates (16V) - I did hear a pretty significant improvement.
I also tried a 4A/12.6V filament transformer and thought I heard subtle improvements in bass heft, unfortunately this transformer will not fit in the available space, so I will be looking at the highest rated EI that will fit the space. (Probably 3A or so)
I should mention I had a friend over here yesterday and he thought it sounded pretty good. The inevitable and unanswerable question was asked about why such a cheap piece of hardware could perform that well was not something I could answer with much more than the remarks that it was a fortuitous accident and the IC designers who designed these chips really knew what they were doing.
Edit:
I'm not sure this mechanism was designed with battery operation in mind, but power consumption does not seem excessive except during rapid disk seeks and acceleration at the start of disk play. I'm assuming that this helps by keeping modulation of the grounds and supply to a relative minimum.
Edit:
I'm not sure this mechanism was designed with battery operation in mind, but power consumption does not seem excessive except during rapid disk seeks and acceleration at the start of disk play. I'm assuming that this helps by keeping modulation of the grounds and supply to a relative minimum.
hayenc said:
Hi Hayenc,
Check it over closely several times before you first apply power. Errors with this micro-controller can be fatal to same..
Mine has been working for several weeks now without incident. I avoid disturbing the display and mcu board if possible. When I finally have the casework sorted out I'm going to add push button switches wired to the display board for play/stop/forward/reverse, and rely on the remote for access to all other functionality except power on/off.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Stax used a cheap Sanyo CD player for their first model, the Quattro.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards
James
push button switches
audio1st & kevinkr, Please inform of your selection of push button switch.
Peter, your casework in metal is fine...fine. I'm partial to wood. Could you share your thoughts in more detail for the management of mass/damping, etc.?
The RCEZ31 does in fact exist @ US military post exchanges. Call your Dad, son (as I did), or your uncle if necessary to get one.
Thanks to all
audio1st & kevinkr, Please inform of your selection of push button switch.
Peter, your casework in metal is fine...fine. I'm partial to wood. Could you share your thoughts in more detail for the management of mass/damping, etc.?
The RCEZ31 does in fact exist @ US military post exchanges. Call your Dad, son (as I did), or your uncle if necessary to get one.
Thanks to all
Kevin,
Thanks for your encouragement. I think we may be the only two fools who took on the 32 layout. I want to do one more trace through all the transistors and switches you show in your picture that you removed from the micro board to make sure which ones might be critical for power versus just the switching of the other modes of the boombox before applying power.
You have done a significant amount of nice work on what it takes to switch to a new power supply, but I do confess, I feel like I will be doing my first 'organ transplant' tomorrow and want to make sure the patient survives the ordeal.
Thanks for all your help and encouragement.
Craig
Thanks for your encouragement. I think we may be the only two fools who took on the 32 layout. I want to do one more trace through all the transistors and switches you show in your picture that you removed from the micro board to make sure which ones might be critical for power versus just the switching of the other modes of the boombox before applying power.
You have done a significant amount of nice work on what it takes to switch to a new power supply, but I do confess, I feel like I will be doing my first 'organ transplant' tomorrow and want to make sure the patient survives the ordeal.
Thanks for all your help and encouragement.
Craig
Hi guys, still 5 units left. As I said, I'll return them by the end of the week if nobody is interested. It would be the last call...
Will buy the metal for the platform this week. It will be based on Peter Daniel design, butcher block base wood, Heavy metal platform, springs suspended, acrylic to plate and external supply.
The esternal supply will be into a alu tube section as the original Humpty Dumpty 47Labs supply. I'll install the front controls and display into a "L" shape alum channel installed on the front of the wood block.
I'll re-cycle the original plastic window for the display and IR remote receiver. By the way, I sent this small window as well with all the parts kits I sent. It is packed with the remote's plastic bag.
three brass cones will be supporting the wood base. Got to go to buy the butcher block
Will buy the metal for the platform this week. It will be based on Peter Daniel design, butcher block base wood, Heavy metal platform, springs suspended, acrylic to plate and external supply.
The esternal supply will be into a alu tube section as the original Humpty Dumpty 47Labs supply. I'll install the front controls and display into a "L" shape alum channel installed on the front of the wood block.
I'll re-cycle the original plastic window for the display and IR remote receiver. By the way, I sent this small window as well with all the parts kits I sent. It is packed with the remote's plastic bag.
three brass cones will be supporting the wood base. Got to go to buy the butcher block
I don't think it's critical, it just depends on what you like.
It's a good idea to use BG STD in PS section after regulator, BG FK adds softness and refinement but it's rather expensive, BG STD before regulator is almost as good.
Some people prefer not to change any caps on a main board, so the choice is really yours. But certainly, BGs may not be everybody's cap of tea
I will be soon modding another unit and will report how each step affects performance.
It's a good idea to use BG STD in PS section after regulator, BG FK adds softness and refinement but it's rather expensive, BG STD before regulator is almost as good.
Some people prefer not to change any caps on a main board, so the choice is really yours. But certainly, BGs may not be everybody's cap of tea
I will be soon modding another unit and will report how each step affects performance.
Originally posted in the wrong place !
I am messing with different ideas to support the transport.
So far :-
Base of old Linn Kan stand, mass loaded with SoundBytes (a type of iron filing)
Top plate of stand bolted to base with a sheet of Deflex sandwiched between
Transport on original board blu-tak'd to it.
Whole lot sat on bathroom scales from Woolies (£2.99)
Scales show weight at about 15 pounds. Sounds good.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i...sportFrame2.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i...sportFrame1.jpg
I am messing with different ideas to support the transport.
So far :-
Base of old Linn Kan stand, mass loaded with SoundBytes (a type of iron filing)
Top plate of stand bolted to base with a sheet of Deflex sandwiched between
Transport on original board blu-tak'd to it.
Whole lot sat on bathroom scales from Woolies (£2.99)
Scales show weight at about 15 pounds. Sounds good.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i...sportFrame2.jpg
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i...sportFrame1.jpg
audio1st said:Thanks Peter, got mine up and running
A couple of questions before I go any further. On the mods pdf, what is the jumper from 5A to 5B for, does it bypass a transistor?
Second question, when you use a two legged Oscillator, do you need to add caps to the centre, B position?
Thanks again..
PS, I have no idea were to put the display and buttons yet.
any chance you can show me how you made this enclosure?
blake