I'm getting great sound now and that's without any resistors at all, however - like you - I prefer to have things done 'by the book' so I'll probably go with those new values to.
Something else I was curious about, is alot of the capacitor values in many of these mods are alot less in value than the originals. Is it OK to arbitrarily change them like this? Surely they were chosen for a reason?
Something else I was curious about, is alot of the capacitor values in many of these mods are alot less in value than the originals. Is it OK to arbitrarily change them like this? Surely they were chosen for a reason?
http://www.airlinktransformers.com/transformer/0080212-open-style-with-leads.asp
Shopping around for a cheap transformer here in the UK to use with Peter's PSU board for this project. Does the one above look like a good choice, or is it overkill? (VA rating).
Also does it have to be dual secondaries or could I go for a 0v - 24v instead?
Many thanks,
- John
Shopping around for a cheap transformer here in the UK to use with Peter's PSU board for this project. Does the one above look like a good choice, or is it overkill? (VA rating).
Also does it have to be dual secondaries or could I go for a 0v - 24v instead?
Many thanks,
- John
OneyedK said:
On mine it is 5.0Vpp! (RCEZ32) So my original calculated values were wrong too. Generally the output of a cmos port is considered to be very low impedance - a couple of ohms or less and can usually be neglected in the calculation, particularly at higher voltages where the error it contributes is small.
Thanks for the replies guys - I'll go for that transformer then... with my eyes closed 
As I was so impressed with the basic sound of this transport I decided to stick as closely as possible to the existing values (apart from C916), but using better components - I didn't want to change anything too drastically that might alter the sound that I was so impressed by. Here are the values I ended up with:
C939 (E1) - 100uF / 63V Elna Silmic (Originally 100uF)
C953 (E2) - 330uF / 35V Panasonic FM (Originally 220uF)
C929 (E3) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)
C934 (E4) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)
C916 (E5) - 47uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 220uF)
C906 (E6) - 0.1uF / 400V Auricap (Originally 0.1uF)
Unfortunately I won't be able to hear what it sounds like until next week when some parts for the PSU turn up, but I'll let you know then
- John
As I was so impressed with the basic sound of this transport I decided to stick as closely as possible to the existing values (apart from C916), but using better components - I didn't want to change anything too drastically that might alter the sound that I was so impressed by. Here are the values I ended up with:
C939 (E1) - 100uF / 63V Elna Silmic (Originally 100uF)
C953 (E2) - 330uF / 35V Panasonic FM (Originally 220uF)
C929 (E3) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)
C934 (E4) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)
C916 (E5) - 47uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 220uF)
C906 (E6) - 0.1uF / 400V Auricap (Originally 0.1uF)
Unfortunately I won't be able to hear what it sounds like until next week when some parts for the PSU turn up, but I'll let you know then
- John
I'll use Rubycon ZLG as a replacement.
Already did a few digital boards from Denon with them,
they only need a few hours break in and they sound perfect.
Don't listen to them the first 15 minutes after power up, you don't want to hear the result
(leakage current is too high at that moment, but after break in, it's unmeasurable.)
(If you charge a 25V rated cap with only 5V, it takes longer to "burn in")
I trust them better than old stock Black Gates.
Already did a few digital boards from Denon with them,
they only need a few hours break in and they sound perfect.
Don't listen to them the first 15 minutes after power up, you don't want to hear the result
(leakage current is too high at that moment, but after break in, it's unmeasurable.)
(If you charge a 25V rated cap with only 5V, it takes longer to "burn in")
I trust them better than old stock Black Gates.
Franz Gysi said:
Light is not a problem, vibrations transferred through air might have some influence, but again, I have transports that are not open drive and sound much worse.
I like convenience here and similarity to analog turntable, I even like the simple display with just a track number.
4 hrs in
i had a go at the cd clamp today. as usual i underestimated the time investment by a factor of 4 - it will probably take me 8 hours to finish the first one. by the second or third clamp i should be able to half the time involved. working on a non metric lathe slows things down a little.
here is a pic with about 2/3 of the difficult cuts done on the bottom half of the clamp.
getting a nice cut that maintains the transparency is not always easy (as can be seen with the 47 labs cd clamp). so far i seem to be able to do it. getting the threads perfectly transparent will be another story - in other words it won't happen.
i had a go at the cd clamp today. as usual i underestimated the time investment by a factor of 4 - it will probably take me 8 hours to finish the first one. by the second or third clamp i should be able to half the time involved. working on a non metric lathe slows things down a little.
here is a pic with about 2/3 of the difficult cuts done on the bottom half of the clamp.
getting a nice cut that maintains the transparency is not always easy (as can be seen with the 47 labs cd clamp). so far i seem to be able to do it. getting the threads perfectly transparent will be another story - in other words it won't happen.