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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
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Old 24th September 2013, 06:51 AM   #7361
tvicol is offline tvicol  Europe
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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
c12mech, rchomeless and valo
Please contact me via e-mail with shipping details.
Beta test kit's are almost ready (few parts to source) and I'll ship them.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 8th October 2013, 08:03 PM   #7362
tubo is offline tubo  Philippines
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Default 50 OHM TO 75 OHM MATCHING PAD

HI GUYS,

PLEASE CHIME IN. I'M PLANNING ON USING THIS 50 OHM TO 75 OHM MATCHING PAD FOR THE SPDIF OUTPUT AND WOULD LIKE TO GET YOUR OPINIONS ABOUT THIS ONE.

ATTACHED LINK: http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/BMP-5075R+.pdf

THANKS GUYS
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Old 8th October 2013, 08:13 PM   #7363
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
tubo you're SHOUTING, please abide by forum rules and turn off your caps lock. Thank you.
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Old 8th October 2013, 08:18 PM   #7364
tubo is offline tubo  Philippines
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Originally Posted by kevinkr View Post
tubo you're SHOUTING, please abide by forum rules and turn off your caps lock. Thank you.

Got it. I forgot the caps lock.

Thanks
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Old 10th October 2013, 08:11 PM   #7365
dimkasta is offline dimkasta  Greece
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I ve been playing around with lubrication the last week. Mainly for my turntable, but it was a nice inspiration to look for some proper oils for the shigaclone as well.

Till now, I was using some general purpose thick grease that came in a green metal tube with no other indication other than general purpose grease.
While it did serve its purpose, looking back at my initial mecha it seems that the gears are now a bit yellowy and the grease seems to have dried a bit.
So after lots of reading and some advice from a friend who is into RC cars like... A LOT... I got some Xray silicone oil with 3000 viscosity for the plastic gears and some plain Singer sewing machine oil for the motor shafts.

I tried the 3000 silicone oil first on an old mecha to test its ability to stay on the plastic and not leak away, but it seemed thick enough. I have some 50000 too (usually used in the back RC car differentials), but I do not see any reason to stress the gears with thicker stuff. The 3000 seems perfect.

I lubed with it all the edges of gears including the line gear of the sled. I also lubed the metal slide and the other side of the sled and the holes of the axles that hold the gears in place. I should have dismantled the gearbox and added some within the gear tubes as well, but I am too bored to do it now. Perhaps next time that I do some stuff to it.

I have also added a tiny drop of the singer oil right on the shaft base of the motors. You do not want to soak it because we have no idea what the excess oil inside it could do. We just want a very thin layer between the shaft and the body.

The mechanical improvement is phenomenal in both cases.
The sled seems to be able to slide only on its weight (with the motor off the gearbox). And the motors when tested with a battery seem to spin WAY more silently and for longer periods of time after removing the battery poles.

As a unit, the mecha now works very silently. By the way, if you do not remember I am now using a Sanyo mecha, the one with the black plastic cover on the gears and the metal turntable.
From day one the most annoying thing with this mecha was that its gearbox was noisy and it was banging itself on the home position stop switch triggering the plastic suspension on the relevant gear for a click or two.
That was EVERY time on both mechas I got, and manamanam has the same issue. But the sound improvement was significant, so I just ignored it.
But now after the lubrication the problem has completely disappeared. Perhaps the sled was not running free enough and the extra current was not cut fast enough when the kill switch was hit.
But now everything runs PERFECTLY.

A brief listening session (due to time mostly) showed a significant increase in clarity and stereo imaging precision. But the most clear improvement was on the lower end. The lower drum notes are VERY distinct now. I could even perceive new ones and rhythms I have never heard before on CDs I know very well.
The sound seems to have lost a bit of its grandeur again, but overall the change is way positive.
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Old 11th October 2013, 07:07 AM   #7366
tvicol is offline tvicol  Europe
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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
Dimkasta, thanks for sharing your findings!

Recently I have revived by old Akai GX-F31 and GX-F35.
Akai GX-F35 GX F35 Service Kit 2 Cassette Tape Deck | eBay

I do not know the source of oil included in service KIT, but will work perfectly on Sanyo CD mechanic as well. Highly recommend.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 11th October 2013, 07:21 AM   #7367
dimkasta is offline dimkasta  Greece
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
Dimkasta, thanks for sharing your findings!

Recently I have revived by old Akai GX-F31 and GX-F35.
Akai GX-F35 GX F35 Service Kit 2 Cassette Tape Deck | eBay

I do not know the source of oil included in service KIT, but will work perfectly on Sanyo CD mechanic as well. Highly recommend.

Regards,
Tibi
That sintered bearing oil would be perfect for the motors. It would be perfect for Technics SL1200 as well by the way

However for the plastic gears nothing comes even close to silicone or ptfe oil/grease. Not to mention that oils not specified for all plastics might react with the gears. Like my general purpose grease did turning them yellow.

By the way, I have opened the gearbox again this morning to lube the gear axles. There are traces of old dry oil there, so I guess lubrication was also part of the original manufacturing but got dry somewhere along its long storage life.
I have also noticed that the 3000 silicone oil has spread almost on the entire surface of the gears. Which is not a bad thing on its own. It is thick enough not to spill away from rotation, but I would feel better seeing it where I put it.
Perhaps the 50000 is a better idea after all. Or I just overdid it with the oil
I will leave it as it is for a few weeks and come back to you.
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Last edited by dimkasta; 11th October 2013 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 12th October 2013, 02:57 AM   #7368
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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I've got a jar of something marked "SILICONE GUN GREASE" (not shouting, iti s all in caps) that I got from a friend when an old genetlman passed away. I Suspect it is from the 60s or maybe even earlier by the looks of the jar and lable.

It is yellow and much softer than bees wax.

I wonder if this is worth trying?
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Old 13th October 2013, 01:57 PM   #7369
dimkasta is offline dimkasta  Greece
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Hmmm.... didn't I already post a reply here? strange...

Anyway. I would get some proper RC car silicone oil just to be sure. That grease was not meant for lubricating plastic parts. And we cannot know what might be in a grease that was meant for cleaning and protecting metal or how could it react with plastic.
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Old 13th October 2013, 02:51 PM   #7370
JC Fardo is offline JC Fardo  Brazil
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For parts out of gearboxes, plastic gears, racks and sliding shaft I would choose dry graphite lubricant. Oils and greases may collect domestic dust in a long term. Applying VERY carefully with cotton sticks, not spraying.
For motor shaft bearing Singer oil (SAE 10), any better. IMHO

Graphite Lubricant: Business & Industrial | eBay
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