Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 29th April 2008, 07:11 PM   #711
Badge is offline Badge  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Oregon
model 31 question. Do all the function buttons work after the mods? Program, Repeat, start/stop/pause, etc. Thanks.
__________________
The freaks stick together, they are a tight old crew
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2008, 07:13 PM   #712
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Italy
Quote:
Originally posted by Badge
model 31 question. Do all the function buttons work after the mods? Program, Repeat, start/stop/pause, etc. Thanks.

Yes they do work .
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2008, 09:31 PM   #713
quan is online now quan  Australia
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: sydney
Default shigaclone

My Shigaclone died last night-the pad at digital out lifted after too amny times fiddling and also C906 postision after trying to remove the large Auricap.
WRT extracting direct digital output from the chip-Peter can you help? How to go about it?
  Reply With Quote
Old 29th April 2008, 09:44 PM   #714
Zen Mod is offline Zen Mod  Serbia
diyAudio Member
 
Zen Mod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
Default Re: shigaclone

Quote:
Originally posted by quan
My Shigaclone died last night-the pad at digital out lifted after too amny times fiddling and also C906 postision after trying to remove the large Auricap.
WRT extracting direct digital output from the chip-Peter can you help? How to go about it?

just trace that trace from digi out pad to chip

as stated in pdf ( first several posts of thread ) PD drilled pcb and soldered wire much closer to chip , if not on exact pin ;
__________________
my Papa is smarter than your Nelson !
tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 12:32 AM   #715
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Default RCEZ32 Update

A couple of mysteries resolved:

Changing the value or removing C950 seems to change the sound for the worse.. I reinstalled the original 1000uF cap in this location, had not yet replaced C949 (470uF) and sure enough the sound reverted to the more controlled, tight bass, I thought I remembered, and an overall more relaxed sounding (less mechanical) presentation. I did this on both my mechanisms and the result was the same.

Edit:
C915 may not be the tracking cap, but I'm not sure and I'm too tired to figure it out tonight.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 01:48 AM   #716
diyAudio Member
 
Peter Daniel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Toronto, Canada
Send a message via AIM to Peter Daniel
Default Re: shigaclone

Quote:
Originally posted by quan
My Shigaclone died last night-the pad at digital out lifted after too amny times fiddling and also C906 postision after trying to remove the large Auricap.
WRT extracting direct digital output from the chip-Peter can you help? How to go about it?
As you can see in a datasheet here: http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe.../LC78601E.html the DOUT on LC78601 is pin 29. Pick the ground somwhere close to the chip.
__________________
www.audiosector.com
“Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 02:12 AM   #717
diyAudio Member
 
luvdunhill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
so, finally got started tonite and things are going well. I accidentally removed C930, so I need to figure out which value this is so I can replace it. Removing the 4 SMD caps was a bit tricky, and at this point they all measure as shorts when I measure across the remaining pads using the continuity check on my meter. I'm assuming this isn't too accurate. Is there a way to verify that these caps were removed successfully? I'm a bit worried about this, as there was a piece of one of the caps left under the heatsink and I removed it with a fine wire cutter... yeah... Also, for the clock it's hard to tell, but it looks that two of the pads are shorted together, but I cannot tell if I did this or not. Is this correct? Finally, what are people doing with the "Cap 6", whose function is unknown... removing, or keeping it?

Such precision work. I cannot image how Peter drilled though the PCB to gain access to that pin!!!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 02:50 AM   #718
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Quote:
Originally posted by luvdunhill
so, finally got started tonite and things are going well. I accidentally removed C930, so I need to figure out which value this is so I can replace it. Removing the 4 SMD caps was a bit tricky, and at this point they all measure as shorts when I measure across the remaining pads using the continuity check on my meter. I'm assuming this isn't too accurate. Is there a way to verify that these caps were removed successfully? I'm a bit worried about this, as there was a piece of one of the caps left under the heatsink and I removed it with a fine wire cutter... yeah... Also, for the clock it's hard to tell, but it looks that two of the pads are shorted together, but I cannot tell if I did this or not. Is this correct? Finally, what are people doing with the "Cap 6", whose function is unknown... removing, or keeping it?

Such precision work. I cannot image how Peter drilled though the PCB to gain access to that pin!!!!
Get a strong magnifying glass and check all of those locations before you apply power to the board. With a reasonably good meter not set to the diode setting most ports will read a couple of hundred K, anything above a couple of K probably means you are ok.

Refer to the schematics for the RCEZ31 for the value of C930..

I am confused by the frequent complaints about how hard it is to remove smd parts. I do it all the time with a conventional iron, replacing them takes somewhat more skill I will admit. I usually apply enough solder to simultaneously heat both ends of the smd cap or resistor I am trying remove and apply the tip along the top or side of the package, wait a few seconds and push in a direction (usually sideways) where there are no close parts. Follow up with solder wick.. Some skill is required so practice on a junk board first..

Mine is sounding great. I think I am very close to finishing the electrical mods at this point.
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 03:28 AM   #719
diyAudio Member
 
luvdunhill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
also, a few more questions.

What does the green square in the second picture refer to? (lower right corner)?

Looks like C930 = 100uF? So, I have a short and a tall 100uF capacitor, both with the same working voltage. This is the cap left of E2 in the first picture. Can anyone confirm?

Also, remeasuring using resistance, I am still getting shorts across the removed SMD capacitors. Nothing obviously wrong looking via a magnifying glass... looks nice and clean. Can anyone verify/explain this? I have not put the new/upgraded components in, so all the parts that are marked for removal / replacement are not installed as I measure.

Oh, also can someone comment on if two of the crystal pads are tied together or not?
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th April 2008, 04:07 AM   #720
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
kevinkr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Blog Entries: 6
Quote:
Originally posted by luvdunhill
also, a few more questions.

What does the green square in the second picture refer to? (lower right corner)?

Looks like C930 = 100uF? So, I have a short and a tall 100uF capacitor, both with the same working voltage. This is the cap left of E2 in the first picture. Can anyone confirm?

Also, remeasuring using resistance, I am still getting shorts across the removed SMD capacitors. Nothing obviously wrong looking via a magnifying glass... looks nice and clean. Can anyone verify/explain this? I have not put the new/upgraded components in, so all the parts that are marked for removal / replacement are not installed as I measure.

Oh, also can someone comment on if two of the crystal pads are tied together or not?
Two words: crappy meter... I have several very expensive lab meters, and none of these measure open, and I surmise your meter can't tell the difference between a short and a high impedance in this mode. All bets are off if your meter turns on the substrate diodes in the chips. (No damage, just a misleading reading, probably just what you are seeing.) Visual inspection is fine, and if you see no shorts then you should be fine. Get a better meter..
__________________
"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:02 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2