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Old 30th March 2013, 11:56 AM   #7061
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Did some more listening and I think its clearer for me... Paper tape under Tibi's puck is a nonono.
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Old 30th March 2013, 01:02 PM   #7062
BMW850 is offline BMW850  Netherlands
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Hi Tibi,

I have the CD Puck ordered.
Might be an option, boards of the 5v Salas low voltage shunt regulator because dimkasta have good results with those regs.

Here a picture of Doede his site this is how I mean inclusive the transformer, plug in and play.
These are 5v 1A regs, I think that 80mA will be enough.
Only the 2 motor has more power needed.

Regards,
Rudy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 5v powersupply.jpg (124.3 KB, 372 views)
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Last edited by BMW850; 30th March 2013 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 30th March 2013, 01:29 PM   #7063
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW850 View Post
No one can help me with this question?
If I connect this +5v wrong I have a problem, I would like to know for sure.

Regards,
Rudy
The orange wire is the 5V which connects the main pcb and the display pcb.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 30th March 2013, 01:45 PM   #7064
BMW850 is offline BMW850  Netherlands
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Thanks syklab,

Waiting now for the terminals, when they arrive I go further.
I have no hurry because I can listen every day, to my Shigaclone.
The only goal for me is to make Tibiís Shiga better sounding.

Regards,
Rudy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tibi shiga.jpg (284.1 KB, 331 views)
File Type: jpg Tibi shiga 2.jpg (196.7 KB, 315 views)
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Last edited by BMW850; 30th March 2013 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Pictures
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Old 30th March 2013, 04:12 PM   #7065
BMW850 is offline BMW850  Netherlands
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Hi Skylab,

I look again to your picture and see you use red for GND and purple for +8v
Be aware you make no mistakes with diferent colors.
The other side of the PCB is +8v, on the wrong side the intention was, here the + 8v connection.
Then the error thus made

I have changes the inlet with a fuse

Regards,
Rudy
Attached Images
File Type: jpg inlet met schakelaar.jpg (264.7 KB, 125 views)
File Type: jpg shiga_bottom.jpg (217.9 KB, 99 views)
File Type: jpg shiga_top.jpg (102.3 KB, 95 views)
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Last edited by BMW850; 30th March 2013 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Add a picture
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Old 30th March 2013, 04:15 PM   #7066
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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I inserted the cable in the wrong direction, the blue is +8V and reed is ground, I have marked te red cable with a black marker so I won't forget. I will make a correct cable later.
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Old 31st March 2013, 06:13 PM   #7067
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Nothing special to show, except my enclosure (sans top). It is currently drying from its final coat of semi-gloss polyurethane. I decided to stain it Cherry. Looks better in person than in the pic.

You can see that because the cabinet walls are thicker than a standard aluminum enclosure I had to cut a slot for the buttons instead of small holes - the buttons would have never cleared the wall thickness that way. I don't have a router, so I couldn't route out the backside to help.

Considering the last time I did any hobby woodwork was in high school shop class I guess it's not horrible.
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Old 31st March 2013, 07:30 PM   #7068
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Hi Syklab,

Did you get the chance to replace the clock with Anton's kit?
I aso have the same kit and eager to hear your impressions.

Thanks!!
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Old 31st March 2013, 07:32 PM   #7069
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Fred, which kit?
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Old 31st March 2013, 07:41 PM   #7070
pchw is offline pchw  United States
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Hi Tony,

This GB. Contact Anton if you are interested, he may still have the kit or pcb available. Since you are interested in a dedicated PS to the clock, this kit should make it easier. Also, read the last 2 posts for Syklab's question and Anton's answer of how to do the wiring.
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