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Old 23rd March 2013, 08:08 PM   #6981
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Cool. Good to know...
By the way, both mechas from the ebay link I posted had bent spindles... I just gave a more thorough try to the second one and it is slightly bent too... Damn... I wish I had better tried both of them before opening a case on ebay... The vendor already sent me a replacement, but still...

By the way, the second one did not have that weird motor sound, but it still does not seem to produce such a clear sound as Tibi's did. Perhaps I need to check the eye pattern as well. Different batches could be configured differently.

Tibi, any news on your extra mechas' availability? I think I m done with random sources...
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Old 23rd March 2013, 09:19 PM   #6982
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Ah, to be in the EU or nearby. I spoke with Tibi and the shipping cost to get new mechs from him to the U.S. was not cost effective. I just got two new ones from a dealer here in the U.S. I haven't tested them yet but they came very well packed, each in their own box and those carefully packed in a larger shipping box. I have my fingers crossed.
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Old 23rd March 2013, 09:21 PM   #6983
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Is it a weird motor sound or just the plastic wormwheels you hear....

I replaced the plastic parts quite often till I liked what I heard....I also use a precision lubrication which does a nice job
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Old 23rd March 2013, 11:15 PM   #6984
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It sounds kinda metalic.... I really don t know if it s the plastics and I m really bored to put the other one again to see where the noise comes from. The lubricant is a very nice suggestion though...
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Old 23rd March 2013, 11:30 PM   #6985
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By the way, I tried to do some mods on Tibi's PSU.

First of all, I removed all the parts that were not specified in the initial build. So basically tried to leave only the diodes, the 1000uF and the 2200uF caps and the 7808 (Did no tests at this point).
I also tried to remove the caps and install some Nichicon FWs I have laying around, but it seems that the big copper plains are a big PITA... Trying to clean the holes (pump, wick, max temp... nothing seem to manage to get both pcb sides melting hot...) and I eventually managed to lift one of the pads...
I am so angry and frustrated now, I am a moving accident waiting to happen, so I left it and I will rebuild it tomorrow.

On the stupid trials row, I also just tried a salas psu I have laying around that is tuned to 7,9V and 450mA max...
It seems that the motors really really need the juice to get the disc spinning... They couldn't even get it to read toc and the salas leds where flashing like a Christmas tree...
So I basically gave up for today... Some days are just... bad....
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Old 24th March 2013, 06:03 AM   #6986
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You are not alone. I was removing the infamous Samxon caps and also managed to lifted a pad :-)
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Old 24th March 2013, 11:38 AM   #6987
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchw View Post
You are not alone. I was removing the infamous Samxon caps and also managed to lifted a pad :-)
"Infamous Samxon" measure quite well on my Blue-ESR meter. I suggest to leave them in place unless you got some oscon's or polymer caps at the same value.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 24th March 2013, 03:24 PM   #6988
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After some delays caused by severe winter and power outages, here is the summary of my output resistor tests.

Click the image to open in full size.

0. The worst case is having no resistors at all.

1. Installing virtually any resistors in an L-pad configuration improves the sound clarity (pretty much any combination of resistor values between 70 and 400R will be an improvement).

2. The optimal L-pad seems to be close to 300R series, 100R shunt.

3. Adding another 100R to form a Pi-pad: 100R-300R-100R (shunt-series-shunt) brings further (minor) improvement in clarity.

4. Moving on to a 75-ohm Pi-pad (75-ohm input impedance, 75-ohm output impedance, 12dB attenuation), which consists of 125R-139R-125R brings a further improvement in clarity - quite significant when compared with the L-pad.

5. Finally, a 50-ohm input, 75-ohm output, 12dB Pi-pad: 72-114-157...
..yep, I do believe it is the Holy Grail of Shiga output terminations . The effect when moving from the 125-139-125 Pi-pad is a bit different from the previous changes though. Whereas all the previous "upgrades" could be described with a single word: clarity, I had some trouble naming what it is exactly that I prefer in this one. I instantly knew I liked it better, but could not quite pinpoint why until I did a lot of swapping back and forth. Eventually I settled on a conclusion that the sense of depth is enhanced, transients are sharper and (as a result) timbres are more true to life... You could say dynamic resolution is improved. This sound is more moving, with greater impact - while the previous Pi-pad sounds very similar in most respects, it is just not as exhilarating to listen to.

For anyone who has recently ordered resistors for a Pi-pad from me - I have changed your orders to this new Pi-pad.


On another news, regarding the motor caps: I confirm that caps between the + and - terminals are the worst (loss of bass and treble, flat sound), and that caps between the motor case and its terminals have similar, albeit much more benign effect. In other words: leave those motors alone!
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Old 24th March 2013, 05:12 PM   #6989
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Nice one
Good to know about the motor caps...

I ll try the 300-100 L-Pad (dales) in place of the 75-75 one installed by Tibi and get back to you (R48 and R49 if I m not mistaken...).
I have also tried changing some other stuff in the kit and results are really big. I ll get back to you later today...
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Old 24th March 2013, 05:14 PM   #6990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
"Infamous Samxon" measure quite well on my Blue-ESR meter. I suggest to leave them in place unless you got some oscon's or polymer caps at the same value.

Regards,
Tibi
I doubted the Samxon would leak like inside the PC right next to the heat source. Even 2 of them are the offeding CF series, the old issue may be fixed in the newer production. It just bugged me psychologically :-)

The Samxon caps happen to be on the basic mod cap list of the original Shiga. So, I took the excuse to make the mod. FWIW,
  • C13, C12 (bypass) = C952, C963 => Removed completely.
  • C43, C42 (bypass) = C916, C917 => Replaced. Uncle Leon's mod guide said this is the most influential. Suggest parts, BG N 47uF/50 which I don't have. I happened to have a few BG PK 47/25. So, that's what I used.
  • C10 = C953 => Repalced. Suggest parts, GB N 47uF/50. I used Silmic II 47/uf/50.

The result was an instant improvement of the detail and the clarity. I think this basic mod is well worth the time.
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