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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
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Old 20th March 2013, 02:10 AM   #6961
tonyptony is offline tonyptony  United States
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It seems I have to split the display board along the provided midline slot so I can mount both pieces across the slim front panel I'm building. What's the best way to split the panel without risking damage to the mounted parts?

Also, I guess I need to make the display opening large enough so the IR receiver is visible, yes?
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Old 20th March 2013, 09:53 AM   #6962
uncle_leon is offline uncle_leon  Poland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
(...)

I also placed the 0.1 uF on the motors.

Click the image to open in full size.
I strongly recommend AGAINST this modification. I tested it, and the result was appaling: both frequency extremes were dulled, resulting in a sound that lacked both sparkle and authority. In fact, bass loss was so heavy that in some songs there were notes I would not hear if I didn't know they were there... I used generic film caps (Wima, I think): 0.1uF for the spin motor and smaller 0.022uF (22nF) for the sled motor.

I then removed the two caps I thought were the most dubious - the ones between the - and + terminals of the motors. The sound seems to have regained the bass and sparkle, although I need to do more listening before I can judge this properly against unmodded motors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
uncle_leon, if you're out there please advise. Now that I'm building the enclosure for my first Shiga I'm completing the collection of parts for my custom. Would like to get your Invisistor analysis so I know what to buy.
Hi Tony, I am actually doing these tests today, and again tomorrow with some friends. I will be comparing:
300-100 (the classic L-pad)
125-139-125 (75ohm Pi-pad, 12dB)
100-300-100 ("ad-hoc" Pi-pad by Erik)
and 72-114-157 (50ohm-in, 75ohm-out Pi-pad, 12dB)

I will of course post here as soon as the results are in.
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Old 20th March 2013, 12:13 PM   #6963
tonyptony is offline tonyptony  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
Hi Tony, I am actually doing these tests today, and again tomorrow with some friends. I will be comparing:
300-100 (the classic L-pad)
125-139-125 (75ohm Pi-pad, 12dB)
100-300-100 ("ad-hoc" Pi-pad by Erik)
and 72-114-157 (50ohm-in, 75ohm-out Pi-pad, 12dB)

I will of course post here as soon as the results are in.
Thanks!

About those motor caps - I bought the best ceramics I thought I could find at Newark. Was about to start that mod but I guess I'll wait.
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Old 20th March 2013, 12:31 PM   #6964
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
I strongly recommend AGAINST this modification. I tested it, and the result was appaling: both frequency extremes were dulled, resulting in a sound that lacked both sparkle and authority. In fact, bass loss was so heavy that in some songs there were notes I would not hear if I didn't know they were there... I used generic film caps (Wima, I think): 0.1uF for the spin motor and smaller 0.022uF (22nF) for the sled motor.

I then removed the two caps I thought were the most dubious - the ones between the - and + terminals of the motors. The sound seems to have regained the bass and sparkle, although I need to do more listening before I can judge this properly against unmodded motors.
...
Try with polystyrene lower values of 1nF - 2.2nF.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 20th March 2013, 05:11 PM   #6965
zjaakco is offline zjaakco
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Hi Uncle_leon,
I'am interesting in your test wiht different resistors, so will you try wihtout a resistor.
Maybe a divider if the voltage is to high.
The point here is, a possibility.
Regards
Zjaakco
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Old 20th March 2013, 05:17 PM   #6966
Erik van Voorst is offline Erik van Voorst  Netherlands
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Hi uncle,

I will listen carefull and remove them and listen again...and inform my findings.

I must admit that I soldered them without listening "before-after"...

Although I have no complaints so far....I am warned now and going to find out in the weekend...thanks
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Old 20th March 2013, 06:28 PM   #6967
Erik van Voorst is offline Erik van Voorst  Netherlands
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I was wondering if the Tbi board is interchangeable with the original board...so you can keep eg. your original display....and is it the same size as the original one...

I read somewhere you can still supply the 8v and 5v to the Tibi board am I correct

So far I cannot recall that someone tried to upgrade...eg clocks and caps..
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Old 21st March 2013, 11:51 AM   #6968
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
I was wondering if the Tbi board is interchangeable with the original board...so you can keep eg. your original display....and is it the same size as the original one...

I read somewhere you can still supply the 8v and 5v to the Tibi board am I correct

So far I cannot recall that someone tried to upgrade...eg clocks and caps..
Yes, you can replace original board with my board while keeping original display. However, connection between Shiga board and old JVC display board is not one to one and youll need to find how to connect flat cable by looking in schematic.

New display is bigger than JVC one. I have posted some pictures in this thread, hard to find them now.

There are several points where you can add separate 5V supplys, these have been documented in Shiga googledoc. Have a look on my website for more info.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 21st March 2013, 12:05 PM   #6969
Erik van Voorst is offline Erik van Voorst  Netherlands
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Thanks Tibi
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Old 21st March 2013, 01:44 PM   #6970
Erik van Voorst is offline Erik van Voorst  Netherlands
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Forgot to ask...the same size as well ?
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