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Old 5th March 2013, 11:14 AM   #6841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
Tibi, I've started putting my ready mount version of the Shigaclone together. The first thing I did was wire up the transformer and PS board as shown in the instructions. When I plugged it in, I got 7.90 VDC at the output of the PS board, but the LED is not lit. I'm reading 12.6 VDC in one direction across the LED and 9.60 VDC in the other.

A the input to the PS board, I'm showing from Brown to White to Blue - 0 -11-22 VAC,

When I lightly touch the outer side of the LED (the one closest to the edge of the board) with a DMM probe I see the LED flicker slghtly.
Can anyone help? Tibi, I examined the board very carefully and there is definitely no resistor to ground after the LED.
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Old 5th March 2013, 01:05 PM   #6842
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I just received the new puck. Looks nice. I will test it later today and post back.

I hope to get some news on the mechanics too. Thanks again Tibi
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Old 5th March 2013, 01:16 PM   #6843
danzup is offline danzup  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
Can anyone help? Tibi, I examined the board very carefully and there is definitely no resistor to ground after the LED.
If there is no resistor this means if you solder one of 330...470 ohm the LED will shine .
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Old 5th March 2013, 01:42 PM   #6844
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Originally Posted by danzup View Post
If there is no resistor this means if you solder one of 330...470 ohm the LED will shine .
Yes, that would be the thing to do. I have no SMD resistors on hand, though. I'd have to hack in a resistor with axial leads I guess.

But I am hoping for some additional info on what esle to check on the PS to make sure nothing else is wrong. For example, I don't see any resistor in both the R50 and R52 positions (with one of them being for the LED as previously discussed).
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Old 5th March 2013, 02:00 PM   #6845
danzup is offline danzup  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
Yes, that would be the thing to do. I have no SMD resistors on hand, though. I'd have to hack in a resistor with axial leads I guess.

But I am hoping for some additional info on what esle to check on the PS to make sure nothing else is wrong. For example, I don't see any resistor in both the R50 and R52 positions (with one of them being for the LED as previously discussed).
R50 and R51 are for LT1086 only and NOT used with L7808 .
Only R52 is the LED resistor .Some say that the PS sounds better without LED connected .
Value at the output is ok for your PS.
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Old 5th March 2013, 02:04 PM   #6846
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R50 and R51 are only populated if your using the LT1086 or the LM317, if your using the L7808 leave out. as danzup said R52 is needed to made the led shine.

Danzup beat me to it.
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Old 5th March 2013, 02:27 PM   #6847
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Thanks guys. I wonder if Tibi is leaving out R52 based on some listening tests?

7.90 VDC seems a little low, doesn't it? That's without the output even connected to anything. What are others getting from the PS output?
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Old 5th March 2013, 03:27 PM   #6848
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The new puck seems perfect and the transport works way better. I cannot confirm it 100% though since my mechanic is still bent
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Old 5th March 2013, 03:41 PM   #6849
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Guys can you please advise if this is a correct replacement for the mechanic?

SF-P101N CD Mechanism SFP101 16 Pins Sanyo Philips Alba | eBay
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Old 5th March 2013, 05:14 PM   #6850
Stixx is offline Stixx  Germany
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[QUOTE]
@Peter: Q902 is in place, trace cut and checked several times. Still no reaction... What could be the next step to look?
Quote:
First, I would go back to original setup and see if the transport still working properly.
Didn't have to do that because I got it working after some careful magnifying glass examination. Inadvertently I had also cut the trace marked yellow in the pic. Just a tiny move with the Xacto knife...

Now I am a happy camper!

@secanbj: Thanks for your input... Hope its actually less than 150mA. Cab someone confirm?
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Last edited by Stixx; 5th March 2013 at 05:16 PM.
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