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tvicol 6th February 2013 09:02 AM

Please also note that LCD backlight have a top protection foil. This was not removed.
Also, glass LCD have a top and bottom protection foil. These have not been removed either.
All these protection foils can be removed very easy with free hand or with a small tweezers.


uncle_leon 6th February 2013 02:53 PM


Originally Posted by woodturner-fran (Post 3355724)
Ok, here it comes again!

Best sound I've had after a lot of experimenting with the output resistors are:

Handmade from uncle leon
Rf attenuators from mini circuits.


Hey thanks Fran! It's good to come up top on someone's list :)


Originally Posted by tonyptony (Post 3356951)
uncle_leon, I appreciate the detail in your link. I guess what concerns me is that your recommended 125R/140R Pi-pad solution yields a circuit with a 77.5 Ohm characteristic impedance and a return loss of only 35.5 dB. IME that's enough to cause some distortion of the signal along the line. Your link indicates the ideal combination will be 139.9R/125.3R, which would yield a return loss of 114.6 dB with the desired attenuation (significantly better of course). Can you provide custom resistors which meet these needed values?

I obviously made a typo in my previous post, it was meant to read one 140R and two 125R (the same as in the guide). I can provide resistors in any value whatsoever below 1K.

tonyptony 6th February 2013 05:09 PM


Originally Posted by uncle_leon (Post 3358349)
I obviously made a typo in my previous post, it was meant to read one 140R and two 125R (the same as in the guide). I can provide resistors in any value whatsoever below 1K.

:headbash: Of course, I should have thought of that myself before writing! Sorry about that. As I recall (since once again I can't get to some sites from work), you have two varieties of resistors that could work in this application. Could you characterize the differences between how the two solutions sound in this position? (I guess I could wait until I get home to check your site... :) )

Erik van Voorst 6th February 2013 07:47 PM

Today I ordered a Teddy Super Regulator for the 8 volt line for the Mini PiTbull Mark II.....just to experiment.

I expect it to sound better than my ALWSR Super Regulator since this one makes use of a gyrator...maybe..... I will compare in due time with ears only:D

BTW I do not know if anyone bought an ALWSR lately but it seems rather difficult/impossible to order

tvicol 7th February 2013 07:58 AM


Originally Posted by tvicol (Post 3356690)
Some time ago, in a TI application note I found an article who treated piezoelectric effect in ceramics SMD capacitors.
The article concluded that the mounting of current SMD components is not optimal and in order to minimise this effect all ceramics should be placed on the edge side.
I decided to make a test and see if this will bring any sonic difference. :)


I found the TI document.
It is worth reading.


uncle_leon 7th February 2013 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by tvicol (Post 3359401)
I found the TI document.
It is worth reading.


Excellent, and very amusing read! It is not very often that you see a serious paper with a serious company logo, that uses such informal and sarcastic language :D

endia 7th February 2013 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by Sean Henderson (Post 3357743)
you can pull the CD Turntable off the shaft, a dab of water based adhesive, such as "Elmers" to the shaft and CD Turntable hole and slide it back to the "stop" you made with the tap. That way, if you ever needed to remove the CD Turntable in the future, with some effort you can remove the CD Turntable.

The more permanent fix is superglue. With this, once you have the CD Turntable exactly where you want it, apply the super glue it to the top of the CD Turntable where the shaft is visible and it will wick down the shaft enough to secure the CD Turntable in place....or you can do that from the bottom if you want.

Sean, how a detailed explanation, thanks a lot for your helps :)

i tried both methods but problem is continuing.. after applying some super glue, i realized that shaft movement is coming from motor.. i do not have a digital caliper to measure exactly but its about 0.5 milimeter..

Tibi, do i need a new transport or is it possible to fix it with just a motor replacement?

Sean Henderson 7th February 2013 11:25 PM


There is some movement of the motor shaft in the vertical relative to the motor resting against the trust plate and picking the shaft up a far as it will go in the vertical, which is about .24 mm, or .009" in my sample, which is not much...and even .5 mm your measured is .018", which is not much travel. With a CD on the CD Turntable and/or a Clamp, well, in operation it should be the same or less...and the laser servos can compensate for that.

Your note does not specific what the problem is at this point.

You indicated the original issue was resolved, which was the motor not "seeing" the limit switch, which you traced to the cable and corrected.

Describe exactly what is happening now.

endia 8th February 2013 11:45 AM

Sean, sorry for the unclear post, i didn't know that movement is normal..

so my problem is;
when i put a cd, laser head continuously trying to read and fighting against cd and doesn't read any of i tried about ten of them which some are original.. i'm not trying much of cd to prevent laser head to get damaged if it does..

this is what it does when powered on:
2013 02 07 20 35 50 - YouTube

thanks a lot..

tvicol 8th February 2013 11:52 AM


I donīt see any laser light. This should be seen as a white light trough the camera.
Have you removed CD laser diode static protection ?


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