Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 666 - diyAudio
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Old 4th February 2013, 06:03 AM   #6651
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endia View Post
Tibi,
it's not clear on the previous picture, this is how i connected the 16 pin flat cable, is it wrong?
From what I see in your movie, the laser is not powered and from what I see in your pictures the 16pin flat cable is not fully inserted in connectors. Please check again.
Keep 16 flat cable free of any tension. This may lead to errors in operation.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 4th February 2013, 06:11 AM   #6652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
Hi Tony, I put all of my latest recommendations in my Compiled Shigaclone Guide. Of course, not everything is covered (yet!), so please feel free to ask about any particular positions...
uncle_leon,

For your Compiled Shigaclone Guide, attached is the datasheet of CSC1469XH.

Regards,
Tibi
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MM1469_e.pdf (341.4 KB, 41 views)
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Old 4th February 2013, 10:51 AM   #6653
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I am in the process of building a third player.
This one will be called Mini PiTbull Mark II

Obviuosly I will try to upgrade there where possible starting with the SPDIF and the C906.

I will try to put it in a post....uncle Leon will provide me with " his stuff" and I will challenge a few resistor and caps in the process.

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Old 4th February 2013, 10:55 AM   #6654
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It will be a playerboard and a seperate psu this time.

Mechanically I took a slab 12 mm copper and a massive woodenboard with a marble plate glued underneath....so very inert.

It is called Mini but the sound/music I am after will be great....

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Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 4th February 2013, 12:22 PM   #6655
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Good luck Erik. You have certainly covered a lot of ground so far, which has been of benefit to all of us.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
It will be a playerboard and a seperate psu this time.
Are you planning on using Tibi's PS PCB with upgraded components or building your own PS from scratch?

I've been thinking that the PS and display each should probably be shielded to keep any stray emissions from getting near the player. Of course with the PS in a separate box that may not be needed, but I know some supplies work better with very short leads to the load while others are okay with longer leads. I've been wondering about the PS based on Tibi's PCB and whether it would be better positioned in a separate box, or if it is best placed close to the load.
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Old 4th February 2013, 12:48 PM   #6656
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It is always a " no free lunch situation" .

The idea is psu with transformer(s) rectification, line filter in the box....and regulators, clock and (swich on/off) display on the board....

I will be using the boomboxboard.....but that is mainly because I have a lot of them and I want to mutulate them

BTW I am building this for my (best) friend so he has some saying in the matter (at least I will make him think that ) and he wants a small player in sight and the PSU tucked away.
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Last edited by Erik van Voorst; 4th February 2013 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 4th February 2013, 01:47 PM   #6657
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Hi Erik,


Great to see you building one of these!!! I await with bated breath your blow by blow accounts!!!

I have also received 2 from tibi but have yet to make a chassis. It will be over the next month or so before I get to it I think.


Fran
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Old 4th February 2013, 01:59 PM   #6658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
Actually, shunt values of 1130 and a series of 10 Ohms will produce an exact 75 Ohm impedance with a very low attenuation and excellent return loss (~119 dB). It also exceeds the minimum load of 390 Ohms as indicated by GSI (post #6232). An exact impedance match and very low return loss should make for a excellent digital signal transfer.
Tony, the main reason we are tinkering with L-pads and Pi-pads is that signal produced by Shiga is too high and needs to be attenuated in order to meet the S/PDIF specification. See the output resistors section in my guide.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyptony View Post
Of course with the PS in a separate box that may not be needed, but I know some supplies work better with very short leads to the load while others are okay with longer leads.
The transformer and diodes (and the first smoothing cap if using CRC filter) can be installed pretty far from the main unit - as much as 1.5m works fine. But the regulator and its supply cap and output cap should be as close to the board as reasonably possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
uncle_leon,

For your Compiled Shigaclone Guide, attached is the datasheet of CSC1469XH.

Regards,
Tibi
Thanks Tibi! I added this to the guide.
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Last edited by uncle_leon; 4th February 2013 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 4th February 2013, 04:33 PM   #6659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
Tony, the main reason we are tinkering with L-pads and Pi-pads is that signal produced by Shiga is too high and needs to be attenuated in order to meet the S/PDIF specification. See the output resistors section in my guide.
Can't get to this from work. How much attenuation is needed (in dB)?
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Old 4th February 2013, 05:05 PM   #6660
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Ok, here it comes again!


Best sound I've had after a lot of experimenting with the output resistors are:

Handmade from uncle leon
Rf attenuators from mini circuits.

Fran
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