Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 647 - diyAudio
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Old 16th November 2012, 08:41 AM   #6461
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Hi Fran,

L7 is an optional component, but if you want to replace use same value - 2,2uH.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 16th November 2012, 02:57 PM   #6462
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Again, thanks for the advice.

Fran
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Old 17th November 2012, 01:01 AM   #6463
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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I've finished constructing the my second board and it exhibits the classic spins but does not read from the CD.

Clock is running and within the limits of an oscilloscope seems to be on frequency (16.92MHz).

Likewise, I've measured the data output of both the good and bad units and compared them.

I've been over the components twice, even changing some caps I could not measure in circuit just to be sure they are correct.

I measured all of the resistors using the good board as a reference for values, so they should be good.

Any suggestions?
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File Type: jpg Bad_HF.JPG (27.2 KB, 524 views)
File Type: jpg Good_LF.JPG (26.3 KB, 523 views)
File Type: jpg Good_hf.JPG (26.8 KB, 514 views)
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Old 17th November 2012, 03:54 PM   #6464
BMW850 is offline BMW850  Netherlands
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There is only one important point to note.
The laser as supplied new has a solder link in place to protect the it from static electricity damage.
You need to remove this small link with a soldering iron or sharp knife.
This is shown in the last picture of this listing.
It is to the left of the connector on the laser.
The laser is also fitted with a protective plastic cover.
This simply unclips and is to be discarded after fitting the mechanism in place.

Regards,
Rudy
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Old 17th November 2012, 05:30 PM   #6465
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The gimp: +1 for what rudy said.
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Old 17th November 2012, 07:13 PM   #6466
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Default Laser Solder link...

Rudy,

The only bit of solder in you posted picture is the one to left edge of the board and just left of the connector. I take it this is the "link" you are suggesting needs to be removed?

If that is correct, this information should be noted in the data that comes with the kits and in the "Using the new 2012 Shigaclone..." page.

Tibi...Do the mounted and test units have said link removed?
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Old 17th November 2012, 07:42 PM   #6467
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Yes, you must remove that blob of solder, just as you describe. It's a static protection measure on any of these mechs you buy.

My kit still had it, and in fairness its probably best to keep it until it gets to the owner. It was a mentioned in the original shiga pdf (okapi mods) but I don't think it's in the latest manual from tibi.

I did an extended listening session with a friend last night. We both thought the Vicol shigaclone sounded "better" than either of my other 2 jvc shigas, both of which are well tweaked. It was more analog and easier on the ear. More front to back depth in the soundstage. And bear in mind the Vicol shigaclone is just sitting on a wooden block.


Fran
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Old 17th November 2012, 08:40 PM   #6468
BMW850 is offline BMW850  Netherlands
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Default Static protection, remove that blob of solder

Fran is right, you need to remove this small link with a soldering iron.
I changed the picture

Regards,
Rudy
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Old 19th November 2012, 03:34 PM   #6469
TheGimp is offline TheGimp  United States
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Yes, I removed the solder bridge.

As I said, I have two units, one unit working and one which does not.

I can swap the transport mechanism between PCB sets and the second set always fails while the first unit always works.
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Old 20th November 2012, 07:21 AM   #6470
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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TheGimp,

I suggest you to check components and soldering very close.
Some parts will broke or make fissures if soldering station have no proper temp adjusted.
I personally had problems with C50. If you solder this at more than 250°C/ 482°F this will broke or will make thin fissures.

Regards,
Tibi
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