Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

[blueworm]

I had to shoe horn that bad boy. I was completeally unable to solder a 0805 resistor there. Any smaller and well "If I cant see I cant solder it."
Thats a lot better. but the angles are still rather annoying. Oh well.

[tvicol]

Originally Posted by TheGimp

blueworm, good to see you got it going.

Here is a pix of where to cut. Be careful and use a sharp pointed X-acto (Razor knife/scalpel...).

The trace is very short. The via is to power. Put the resistor from the via to the pin and don't add a cap.

Placing the resistor in that place is not the best option because LC78601 pin 22 will be affected as well and this may degrade DSP performance.

The mod can not be performed if LC78601 was soldered.
You need to perform the mod before soldering this chip.

First you need to cut the trace between pin 40 and pin 22 as per top_modification.jpg - left picture.
Than, turn the board on bottom and perform the modification as per bottom_modification - right picture. Instead L7 put a 1K2 resistor or a 2K potentiometer to get your preferred contrast and make a strap between two pads. The strap will bring back Vcc to pin 22.

That´s all.

Regards,
Tibi

[dimkasta]

Tibi do the assembled kits include this mod?

[tvicol]

Not yet, but I plan to do so.

Regards,
Tibi

[aasing]

Originally Posted by tvicol

Not yet, but I plan to do so.

Regards,
Tibi

Hi, Tibi

Thanks in advance.

Clarence

[tvicol]

Ok, I found another solution who will work for everybody.
All modifications are only on the same side of the board, so no need to do prior mounting LC78601 and the mod can be applied to existing Shiga´s as well.
Cut near C60 as in attached picture. You may need to unsolder C60. This will separate power supply pin 22 from pin 40.
Replace L7 with an 1K2 resistor and strap two pads in order to power back pin 22.

That´s all.

Regards,
Tibi

[BMW850]

I read a lot here about the cd platform with a puck.
Have you already thought about a 3d printer?
Have no idea how accurate these printers are but it is perhaps an option.

Regards,
Rudy

[dimkasta]

The DIY cheap 3d printers are really really rough at their output. The result would be really unbalanced and asymmetrical out of the printer.
A better option would be a CNC or laser cutter

[BMW850]

I mean of course a professional 3d printer and create the cd platform and the puck by a company that have a professional 3d printer.
The cabinet can also be made with a 3d printer

Regards,
Rudy

[sigurd]

Originally Posted by tvicol

I really hope the one that is reading well is from me.
There are several manufacturers who made this transport. Some of them are using original laser and pin diodes from Sanyo, others not.
Have a look in datasheet page 12.
http://vicol-audio.ro/docs/DA11VZ.pdf

During operation you can measure the voltage on J1 connector between 11 and 12 and adjust other mechanics the same.
Please let me know the results.

Regards,
Tibi

Hi Tibi,
Everything is ok now. I was using a other strip from 'kotobo' to connet the laser-mechanic. Now I am using yours and now the shiga plays all my CD's very well, without even 1 scratch. Super ! And the sound is sublime.
I use on the output a buffer stage with 74hc04 and a AudioNote transformer.
Audio Note

Tibi, much thanks for such good work !