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Old 24th April 2008, 06:54 PM   #621
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Default RCEZ32 Availability on eBay

2008.04.24 Both sellers realdealectronics and finasonic currently list RCEZ32 at fairly reasonable prices on eBay for anyone wanting one of these units.
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Old 25th April 2008, 02:07 PM   #622
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Well I didn't get on with the Wima 0.068uF cap in the C906 position - it's not bad sounding, but a little too clinical for my liking. All the sounds were there but it lacked any emotion, and front to back soundstaging was non-existant... very 'flat' sounding.

This morning was going through my parts box and found a brand new Jensen copper foil 0.1uF cap, so I decided to install that - overkill I know, but that's DIY isn't it?

Anyway I think this willl turn out to be a 'keeper' - the music sounds so vibrant, so natural that I can't imagine wanting to change it anytime soon. Seems to offer all the detail of the Wima, but with the emotion and excitement of the original 0.1uF electrolytic.

Amazing how one cap position on the board can have so much influence over the sound - it's not like it's directly in the signal path! Strange - still I'm happy with it now... until the next mod

John
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Old 25th April 2008, 03:43 PM   #623
Puffin is offline Puffin  United Kingdom
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Who said BG's take weeks to come on song !

Have been using mine as standard with a BNC out (no resistors)

Made it 75ohms last night, not bad, less glare and grain.

Having got my bits from Peter earlier in the week (with the caveat of "you don't neccessarily need them all") I thought I would attack it.

Removed R1 - R5

Substituted, E1, 10uf and E5 47uf for the BG's.

Well, bugger me, how good is that (30 mins on them at present) ! If they get any better then it's a bonus.

Now I've got to tread carefully as to any other substitutions.
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Old 25th April 2008, 04:29 PM   #624
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I must be tired and confused today. Im having trouble making the PSU that I built behave like it should. I made it using Peters schematic. I used MUR820 diodes because thats what I could get my hand on. Im getting around 40V AC/17.5V DC after the rectifiers and around 16V AC/7.85V DC after the voltage regulator. Im using a center tapped 2x12v EI transformer. Am I supposed to have that much AC at the output? What have I done wrong, because Im pretty sure I did?
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Old 25th April 2008, 04:38 PM   #625
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrMajestic
I must be tired and confused today. Im having trouble making the PSU that I built behave like it should. I made it using Peters schematic. I used MUR820 diodes because thats what I could get my hand on. Im getting around 40V AC/17.5V DC after the rectifiers and around 16V AC/7.85V DC after the voltage regulator. Im using a center tapped 2x12v EI transformer. Am I supposed to have that much AC at the output? What have I done wrong, because Im pretty sure I did?
Tell us what you used to measure these results and how you did these measurements. Seems very unlikely unless your meter is not working correctly.
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Old 25th April 2008, 04:45 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevinkr


Tell us what you used to measure these results and how you did these measurements. Seems very unlikely unless your meter is not working correctly.
I used my regular multimeter, which I doubt would be the culprit. I measured right after the recifiers first. I have a pin header there where I will put a LED later. Then I measured at the output of the voltage regulator. I checked both AC and DC readings.
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Old 25th April 2008, 04:59 PM   #627
lohk is offline lohk  Europe
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where can I get this drive without hacking the whole blaster machine?
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Old 25th April 2008, 05:05 PM   #628
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by lohk
where can I get this drive without hacking the whole blaster machine?
You really can't - you need the supporting electronics, the mechanism by itself is worthless. (Except as a spare) I have looked at the cost of the mechanism by itself, and retail it costs roughly half of what the entire boom box would cost you depending on where you are. Factor in the chips, pcb , and the lcd display, and cannibalizing this inexpensive boom box starts to make a lot of economic sense. I know this is not what you wanted to hear.

FWIW it seems that a lot of the performance potential resides in the Sanyo chip set used..
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Old 25th April 2008, 05:10 PM   #629
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrMajestic


I used my regular multimeter, which I doubt would be the culprit. I measured right after the recifiers first. I have a pin header there where I will put a LED later. Then I measured at the output of the voltage regulator. I checked both AC and DC readings.
Some cheap multi-meters give erroneous results when set to the ac range in an attempt to measure ac superimposed on dc, while others will actually give you the residual ac riding on the dc you are measuring. Put a small cap (say a couple of uF - if electrolytic observe polarity) in series with one of the meter leads and try the ac measurement again - I bet (hope) you get a different reading.

What brand and model of multi-meter?

A scope would answer this question definitively.
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Old 25th April 2008, 05:15 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally posted by kevinkr


Some cheap multi-meters give erroneous results when set to the ac range in an attempt to measure ac superimposed on dc, while others will actually give you the residual ac riding on the dc you are measuring. Put a small cap (say a couple of uF - if electrolytic observe polarity) in series with one of the meter leads and try the ac measurement again - I bet you get a different reading.

What brand and model of multi-meter?
Ok, I will try that, thanks. Its a cheap Mastech by the way.
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