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#5511 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Johnson City, TN
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I agree that isolating the board from the motors is important. One question in my mind is how far is far enough?
An additional idea is to add a Mu-Metal shield between the motors and the board. I don't see that any spacing option would preclude this. How good is the internal DAC option? I was expecting to use an external DAC (WM8741) but it might be nice to compare the two for myself since I have no experience with such. |
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#5512 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Czyżeminek, near Łódź
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Quote:
I don't quite see the point of discussing the length of the ribbon cable at this stage though (but maybe I'm missing something?...). The way I'm imagining it, we will have a "control PCB", which we will be able to connect to any compatible CD mech in any way we please - with a short ribbon, with a long ribbon, hard-wired or whatever. As BMW850 rightly pointed out, closer is not necessarily better, and some degree of separation will almost surely be beneficial. Everyone can decide for themselves how far to go with separating the two components when they actually build the player as there will inevitably be other constraints to consider. @TheGimp - the internal DAC is ok-ish, but nothing to write home about... It has a fairly bright sound, mediocre bass control and a typical "digital" timbre.
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Studio Zèy - natural, hand-crafted components for hi-end audio. "Dare to be different, and you may stumble upon something amazing." Last edited by uncle_leon; 6th March 2012 at 04:10 PM. |
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#5513 |
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diyAudio Member
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Tibi, is this the same mechanism which you are ordering?
SF-P101N CD Mechanism SFP101 16 Pins Sanyo Philips Alba | eBay Oh, and while I know this will be of no real use to virtually anyone else, would anyone know just what it would take to fit a ST glass output to this design? I have two DACs (EAD and Wadia) and both have the ST glass input. Right now I consider that superior to others using my current transport. In my dream for this DIY project I'd love to be able to have a quality ST output available. Last edited by tonyptony; 7th March 2012 at 12:43 AM. |
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#5514 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thank you all for your opinions!
The benefits for having a separate board are obvious. - less mechanical vibrations, less noise induced by ceramic components - more space to accommodate 1206 components - better layout and grounding as the motors are no longer on pcb - flexibility in terms of board placement - dampening, shielding etc Jazz and me will change the design for a separate board. The board will be mounted under cd mechanic, something like in picture posted by Rudy http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...ry-oil-rig.jpg Regards, Tibi Last edited by tvicol; 7th March 2012 at 06:32 AM. |
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#5515 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
ST glass output it is an option I´ll consider. Maybe it will be another separate board with reclocking and AES/EBU, S/PDIF, Toslink and AT&T ST glass. Do you have any recommendation here for a good ST glass output? Regards, Tibi Last edited by tvicol; 7th March 2012 at 07:12 AM. |
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#5516 |
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diyAudio Member
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Can be an option
Laser -> http://www.optekinc.com/datasheets/OPV314AT.pdf LED TX -> http://www.optekinc.com/datasheets/OPF694.PDF LED RX -> http://www.optekinc.com/datasheets/OPF560.PDF And here an application note from HP http://server.elektro.dtu.dk/ftp/dat..._apps/ab78.pdf And an old thread Fibre optic - AT&T style (HP, Optek,...) Regards, Tibi Last edited by tvicol; 7th March 2012 at 07:33 AM. |
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#5517 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Milan, Italy
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#5518 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hong Kong
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#5519 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Wonderful, I agre! Regards Ivo-Cici |
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#5520 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I understand massimo's preference, but I do hope for a ST solution. Many older higher end DACs used ST glass. It's a much better interface than Toslink (for those who can use it). |
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