Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Re: clamp update

okapi said:
1. until i confirm the tolerances on the center hole and the cd shaft.
2. i heated the bottom of the clamp to 120 degrees farenheit (49 degrees C)
3. i made a puller
4. the clamp as it stands does impede screw access significantly.

1. Can you measure and note the shaft at several points, 4 at least. What´s the precision of your vernier?
2. Too risky. I would try cold fit anytime.
3. Make a simetrical one that pulls 2 oposite points to the shaft. Three points would be better.
4. Reducing 16mm ( 18-2) distance. Reducing 15mm botton diam. and drilling 2, not one, simetrically vertical access holes. Less mass, less unbalance problems.
5. I wonder how those brave polish diyers have worked this out!!

Good job btw and take your time, nobody is bleeding...
 
The only downside to using the snap ring pliers is that you are still pulling on the motor bearings. Using a puller as your pics show is really the way to go. Barring that, using a dremel with a cutoff wheel, you could cut the original mount down to just a thin section that would then flex enough to slide off easily. I think the idea of having a puller make the rounds is the best bet. Everyone pays to ship it to the next person in line. It will take patience, but bent shafts are not a good thing.

I actually got my player last night. What an atrocious piece of junk that boombox is. I am amazed that it could possibly create good sound from such a humble beginning. Mine is gutted and on the bench waiting for me to put together a power supply and start the mods.:)

About the clamp for $75. Holly highway robbery. :eek: Let me talk to our General Manager when she gets in. I don't know where the shop schedule is, but if I can get our shop to run them, they will be far less than $75. Do we have a total number of people who are interested? That will make a big difference. The majority of the time is to program and set up the job. From there the machine runs itself and drops the parts in the parts catcher. Also cutting plastic, once it is setup and the first part is right, there is no need for vigilant QC as the tools don't wear appreciably.

So, when we have a total number, I will pursue doing them here. I'm sure it will be about half that cost. :cool:
 
 

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davem

that is potentially good news. the university machine shop is definitely not inexpensive. i would be willing to help you mail them out as well.

i will also make three pullers similar to JC's design and mail them out to speed up the process.

i found using heat to mount the clamp very easy. the temperature required is also quite moderate. having said that, i recognize the risk in a potentially "one shot" process. i think determining the appropriate center hold diameter for a large run of clamps is something best left to a professional .....not me:). also, since i have to remove my clamp from the shaft i should be able to let everyone know how difficult this is. i'm keeping my fingers crossed on this one.


edit: i should have said earlier that i used hot tap water to heat the clamp
 
it was for a run of 50 clamps. keep in mind that this is not the final estimate and i could try and hammer him a little on price. However, it is unlikely that i will get the price down anywhere close to $50.

anyone got a motor off of a fried cd mech they can part with? Otherwise, I'll be ordering a new boombox in the next couple of days.
 
hayenc said:
If you are looking for motor, lens, mechanism, etc. you might try eBay: Item: 360032600671 or 270237172878

thanks for the info. i did not want to spend $60 for a motor.

to the best of your knowledge, can you confirm that i could swap the disc motor off of either of the eBay units for the one in the jvc player?

thanks again
 
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Wrote that last one quickly at work. To clarify, I did buy a 16 pin version as that is how many pins I counted on the laser and in the service manual, and physically compared them side by side. The eBay one does not have a part number on it like the one in the EZ31, but they do look identical.
 
Peter Daniel said:
As I was working recently on a new display board, here's the actual schematic, the one in service manual is not exactly accurate.

I also simplified it for my needs, with only 4 main buttons. The other 2 buttons are for programming and repeat. I only need them on remote.

The digital output resistors are also explaned there.

Peter and others who finished the transport, please

If you made a new frontal panel you need to connect the remote receiver, display and push bottons boards back to main PCB.

Did you keep original single row socket and ribbon cable or made it with single wires.

Thanks