Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

[Puffin]

Peter, given Johnm's findings, can you just confirm that of the mods listed by Okapi, If I were to remove the items he has removed, and leave the rest as standard, it will still work ?

http://tim.cheapo.cc/images/CD%20player%20mods.pdf

If that is the case, why were they there in the first place ?

In relation to the 75/75 resistors on the dig out. I tried this and got a lot of hum. Can I just check I got the wiring right. One resisitor goes from the + side of the dig out to Phono and the other intersects and goes to ground, at one (transport) end only ?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1208083104

Finally, can you confirm you got payment from PayPal.

[audio1st]

Originally posted by stefanobilliani


Hello ,

what diodes are you using in that PS ?

Sorry not to answer earlier, Internet has been down. I used schottky fast diodes, 1N5821.
Thanks guys for the complements, hope it gave some inspiration..
JohnM, try adding a 150R to the series output, it may just be the simple solution..

[stefanobilliani]

Originally posted by Puffin


In relation to the 75/75 resistors on the dig out. I tried this and got a lot of hum. Can I just check I got the wiring right. One resisitor goes from the + side of the dig out to Phono and the other intersects and goes to ground, at one (transport) end only ?

By my point of view the board on the EZ31 is made particularly to accept a Toslink optical transmitter . There is the output , the 5 volt , and ground . So when connectin the SPDIF just be sure to not touch the 5V ( central pin ) . As for the exact way of connectin the divider look here

post #317

[Peter Daniel]

Originally posted by Puffin
Peter, given Johnm's findings, can you just confirm that of the mods listed by Okapi, If I were to remove the items he has removed, and leave the rest as standard, it will still work ?

Finally, can you confirm you got payment from PayPal.

The mods listed by Okapi is what I'm using now, so it certainly works. And you can do them too, but go step by step, monitoring each change, so if something does not work to your likening, you will know what it is and you can revert to the original. If you change everything all at once, and suddenly you loose that "bloom" it would be much harder to figure out which particular change is responsible for that.

You package was shipped last Friday, if you find that some parts are not needed, you can send them back for a refund (providing jackets are perfect condition and pins at least 5mm long).

[Puffin]

Thanks Peter. Any comments on :-

"If I were to remove the items he has removed, and leave the rest as standard, it will still work ?"

And


"In relation to the 75/75 resistors on the dig out. I tried this and got a lot of hum. Can I just check I got the wiring right. One resisitor goes from the + side of the dig out to Phono and the other intersects and goes to ground, at one (transport) end only ? OR BOTH ?"

[Peter Daniel]

Originally posted by Puffin
Thanks Peter. Any comments on :-

"If I were to remove the items he has removed, and leave the rest as standard, it will still work ?"

And


"In relation to the 75/75 resistors on the dig out. I tried this and got a lot of hum. Can I just check I got the wiring right. One resisitor goes from the + side of the dig out to Phono and the other intersects and goes to ground, at one (transport) end only ? OR BOTH ?"

As I said, the items he removed, is exactly what I did and it works fine for me. The rest is standard for me too.

There is no + side of digital signal marked on a board. There is +5V which you dont' use, DOUT which is digital signal and GND.

Series resistor connects to DOUT, shunt resistor connects between series resistor output and GND, as on schematic posted by Stefano.

[Peter Daniel]

Originally posted by Peter Daniel
I already mentioned it few times, and can't stress it enough: don't change anything on a main board exactly as I did

I guess that line might have brought some confusion, I should rather say: don't do everything exactly as I did; different parts substitution could work better in other setups, so spend some time experimenting and choosing parts that work best for YOU.

[stefanobilliani]

Just for fun , this is the schematic of the 8 volt internal regulator of the JVC RC EZ31 .

[hayenc]

After going back a few posts to where the jumper is required on the stock PS board to replace the switch on the AC cord input, the system (guts of EZ32) is alive.

The EZ32 has a 7808 regulator on it, so will work for now while I work on Kevin's mods to get rid of the audio board. Waiting for some of those $3 25VCT transformers from Parts Express to arrive while laying out a new board.

Took the small 3 pin header off the corner of the audio board and put it in the holes where the DOUT is located on this unit, so I can play with the SPDIF loading without having to touch the board, but it sounds nice for now with 390/100 ohms, feeding one of Peter's NOS DAC's.

Now the real fun begins.

Thanks to all for help in this thread.

Craig

[kevinkr]

Happy to report that removing the ferrite on the ac power leads to the stock transformer effected a pretty big improvement. The mechanical sound quality I complained about in my last post is mostly gone.

I tried several other EI transformers and noted no particular sonic advantage while listening so I stuck the stock transformer back in my transport. It fits and some of the bigger ones really do not.

Finally I added a couple of small 33uF/63V Nichicon VZ series caps at the output of the 8V supply. I noted some improvement in the smoothness of the highs, and a slight improvement in overall imaging. I did not use BG caps in my supplies so I cannot indicate whether or not this would result in an improvement or not.

I am now also able to use the remote control.

For whatever reason this thing certainly is revealing, far better in some respects perhaps than any cd player I have owned to this point. I am sometimes amazed at what it does for multi-track vocals, it resolves rather well.