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Old 15th November 2011, 01:45 PM   #5111
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Hi Leon,
is it possible for you to try a lot larger film cap in c906, I would welcome your view on the difference.
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Old 15th November 2011, 01:55 PM   #5112
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My case is starting to evolve.
Here it is after adding 2kg of mass in the form of divers lead shot on top of an alluminium base.
I'm probably unknowingly making one huge capacitorClick the image to open in full size.
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Old 15th November 2011, 07:01 PM   #5113
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Originally Posted by Peter Daniel View Post
If you are referring to this picture: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story I connected one lead to ground, the other lead underneath the board to closest trace, which was more convenient than placing both cap ends into original (electrolytic) footprint.
Thank you. Super. Cap installed.
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Old 15th November 2011, 07:10 PM   #5114
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Fried my led in the display now I have to solder in a new..haha. I guess I kinda forgot which wire should go to + .
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Old 15th November 2011, 08:35 PM   #5115
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Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
200VA Trafo 12V with CT, 2x Cerafine caps 1000uF/25V, 2x MSR860, 1x LM7808, 2x Blackgates 470uF/25V and removed the ferrite spool and the 2 caps on the board and replaced by a "Red" Blackgate 33 uF/50V
Silver Cotton Jupiter Wire with 2 Allen Bradleys 300/100 and a WBT Next Gen (Gold) and a Furutech Rhodium Power Inlet with a 2K Linefilter and 2 Bybees
Why Allen Bradley? Were they 1watts? I use shinkoh tantalums, but did any test if there is any noticeable difference besides brand names (I do have some bradleys but need to oven dry them and shellacking).
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Old 15th November 2011, 08:56 PM   #5116
Turbon is offline Turbon  Sweden
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Sorry for the "Life of Brian" stuff - I just couldn't resist. It just struck me at the time that there was some resemblence. Keep up the good work and please let us know if asymetric choice of screws makes any difference :-).

Brgds
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Old 20th November 2011, 03:12 AM   #5117
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Originally Posted by Kakselbo View Post
Why Allen Bradley? Were they 1watts? I use shinkoh tantalums, but did any test if there is any noticeable difference besides brand names (I do have some bradleys but need to oven dry them and shellacking).
Shinkoh are a pretty good choice for the shunt position - they have a touch more detail than Caddock MK132, but their presentation is rather dry and somewhat skewed towards upper registers. Caddock is slightly muddy in comparison, but definitely more natural and pleasant overall.

Kiwame sound nice and a bit warm, but resolution suffers. Audio Note are perhaps slightly more neutral than Kiwame, but not any better in terms of detail. Amtrans have a very energetic sound, but they always introduce prominent midrange colourations, so don't bother with them. I haven't tried AB resistors yet...

In series position "nude Vishay" is undisputably the best.
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Old 20th November 2011, 07:51 AM   #5118
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Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
Shinkoh are a pretty good choice for the shunt position - they have a touch more detail than Caddock MK132, but their presentation is rather dry and somewhat skewed towards upper registers. Caddock is slightly muddy in comparison, but definitely more natural and pleasant overall.

Kiwame sound nice and a bit warm, but resolution suffers. Audio Note are perhaps slightly more neutral than Kiwame, but not any better in terms of detail. Amtrans have a very energetic sound, but they always introduce prominent midrange colourations, so don't bother with them. I haven't tried AB resistors yet...

In series position "nude Vishay" is undisputably the best.
Thank you for great info. I don't know anything only try and listen. So please help me with the shunt and series info. The 300/100 are they supposed to be same brand of resistor? Or did you mention vishays because there is somewhere they go in. Why I did mention the AB was because Erik used it(read it somewhere and was curious if some had compared resistors..and I hoped you did) because black gates are diff to get, I tried mixing and matching to my own setup. Resistors could be solution to some minor correction.
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Old 20th November 2011, 02:17 PM   #5119
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I find that resistors have certain sonic signature that always filters through to a degree, regardless of the position. But having said that, that signature can work differently - Vishay is perhaps the best example: it is rather unbearable in shunt position (thin sound, you end up listening to detail, not music), but gives good results in series position (great clarity).

In other words, the recommended configuration is:
Series position - 300R "nude" Vishay, no other resistor comes close
Shunt position - 100R - Caddock MK132 is the most pleasant (warm), Shinkoh has a bit better resolution, but sounds dry and cold. Other resistors were inferior.

Bear in mind, the above comments relate to commercially produced resistors. A much better resitor CAN be made - although not so cheaply.
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Old 20th November 2011, 02:58 PM   #5120
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Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
I find that resistors have certain sonic signature that always filters through to a degree, regardless of the position. But having said that, that signature can work differently - Vishay is perhaps the best example: it is rather unbearable in shunt position (thin sound, you end up listening to detail, not music), but gives good results in series position (great clarity).

In other words, the recommended configuration is:
Series position - 300R "nude" Vishay, no other resistor comes close
Shunt position - 100R - Caddock MK132 is the most pleasant (warm), Shinkoh has a bit better resolution, but sounds dry and cold. Other resistors were inferior.

Bear in mind, the above comments relate to commercially produced resistors. A much better resitor CAN be made - although not so cheaply.
Thank you. I Can only find the naked resistor in size: 270r and 330r?? Hificollective sell them, but what about caddocks? Where to find those.
So: 300r nude/ 100r caddock, Instead of 300r shinkoh/ 100r shinkoh
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