Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 497 - diyAudio
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Old 6th July 2011, 01:06 PM   #4961
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@ syklab - The built-in DAC is not very good and you would be generally much better off building a proper DAC from scratch, than trying to mod a weak one in hopes of improving it.

@ debk - sent you a PM
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Old 6th July 2011, 04:14 PM   #4962
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Why is everyone mounting the transport at 2points instead of 4?
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Old 6th July 2011, 04:18 PM   #4963
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It sounds better that way from what I understand...
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Old 6th July 2011, 04:18 PM   #4964
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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Hi uncle_Leon,
I bought a AD1955 DAC board for the Shigaclone, since I had this tube buffer ripped out from my old Tjoeb 99 so I just want to find a way to make some use of it.

Thanks for your reply.
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Old 6th July 2011, 08:41 PM   #4965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maartentje View Post
Why is everyone mounting the transport at 2points instead of 4?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Leach View Post
It sounds better that way from what I understand...

hmm interesting..
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Old 6th July 2011, 09:29 PM   #4966
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Hi folks!

Was wondering if anyone had tried playing about with the values before/after the LM7808 regulator? The Shigaclone standard seems to be 1000uF - regulator - 1000uF.

Was going through the LM7808 datasheet out of interest and it mentions you only need a 0.1uF cap (ceramic disc type recommended) after the regulator. Has anyone tried this?

http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM340.pdf

Is 1000uF really needed before the regulator too? I'd be interested in people's views/experiences with this. I'm going to try a 0.1uF tantalum cap after the regulator on my Shiga and see if it makes any difference.

- John
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Old 7th July 2011, 12:01 AM   #4967
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@ maartenje - the original Shigaraki transport is mounted at two points; Peter's experiments (later confirmed by others) indicate that it really does make the transport sound better.

@ johnm - Without the big input cap you would be feeding the entire AC ripple into the regulator, which can't be a good thing... As for the output cap, I think you could get away with a small one, but only on condition that the regulator is installed directly at the load (which is not very practical).
Sound-wise, caps lower than 1000uf seem to result in bass loss.
Oh, and the "Shigaclone standard" is actually 2200uf - reg - 1000uf Although 1000-r-1000 works just as well most of the time. Capacitor types are more important here than exact values.
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Old 8th July 2011, 01:43 PM   #4968
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Uncle_leon: Thanks for the explanation - I understand the need for the 1000uF (or higher) for the 'input' cap, but I don't see what could cause bass loss with using less than that at the output of the regulator, particularly when the datasheet recommends 0.1uf. As my Shigaclone is in a Peter Daniel chassis, the regulator is right next to the transport mech. I guess in this instance then I could safely experiment with smaller value caps?

Was wondering if there are any fake Sanyo transports doing the rounds out there? The first transport I took from a JVC boombox had Sanyo clearly embossed in the moulded black plastic housing which the laser is mounted in. A mechanism I got from another JVC didn't have any logo embossed into the plastic, and ditto for two Sanyo spares which I got from Ebay (and which were advertised as genuine Sanyo spare parts). Is there anyway to tell if one has the real item or not?

Cheers,

- John
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Old 9th July 2011, 04:43 PM   #4969
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I got it together and working!
Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 9th July 2011, 05:57 PM   #4970
hotiron is offline hotiron  Scotland
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That looks totally WICKED!!
How about swapping those bolts out for some stainless cap bolts.
(We call them Allen Screws over here.)
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