Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 484 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Source & Line > Digital Source

Digital Source Digital Players and Recorders: CD , SACD , Tape, Memory Card, etc.

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 16th May 2011, 12:25 PM   #4831
hotiron is offline hotiron  Scotland
diyAudio Member
 
hotiron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Aberdeen Scotland
Relisted for 30......

JVC RC-EZ51H Shigaclone donor Finally on eBay (end time 18-May-11 15:21:33 BST)
__________________
If you give up easily Dont start!!
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th May 2011, 07:02 PM   #4832
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
.

It's amazing how much difference all the different details make, and how right I got the first one, doing it by intuition.
I learned over the years to still keep listening to my "gut-feeling" and more than often I get myself an "out-of-the-box" reward for that

This Shiga contraption is capable (on a fairly good system up to a cost-no-object system) of revealing ANY change you make on it........

I know that this changed my point of view(s) on DIGITAL in more than one way.....
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote
Old 16th May 2011, 07:22 PM   #4833
Pocoyo is offline Pocoyo  Indonesia
diyAudio Member
 
Pocoyo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indonesia
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_leon View Post
I decided to publish my conclusions from my "big capacitor tests" so far.
I will still be buying and testing more caps, as I stumble upon them,
and will post if any of them are worthwhile.....
Hi Uncle

There are
Nichicon FX here 1000uf 63v @ US$ 2.5
Illinois caps 100uf 35 @ US$ 1
BGF 1000uf 35V @ US$ 25

wanna try ?

Last edited by Pocoyo; 16th May 2011 at 07:28 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th May 2011, 11:08 AM   #4834
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
[QUOTE=uncle_leon;2573497]Hi Nemo, I have seen your capacitor pictures back in this thread, and I actually used them as an inspiration to a degree. One big difference is that I rejected the use of any plastics. I prefer natural materials, because they are more pleasant to work with and have more pleasant sound as well - and are friendly to the environment. Only problem is, they are more expensive, and actually hard to get sometimes.

I was wondering how come you had to use twenty-two layers in your cap to get to 11nF?... I only had to use between two and six, depending on how hard I clamp them.

Hi, uncle_leon

I have used 43x90mm Cu layers instead of 70x90.My dielectric is dry ,non soaked type and the copper thickness before clamping is 0,27mm resulting in much bigger distance between electrodes and less capacitance.Linseed oil dielectric constant is 3.2-3.5 so you easily get 11,3 value with less copper.For example only the aluminum oxide in an electrolytic cap have dielectric constant of 10 and ethylene gylcol which is part of electrolyte solution and is needed to slow down the electrolyte solution evaporating , have the constant of 37 and the cap loose its value with electrolyte evaporation during years.The larger is dielectric constant of insulation with less electrode distance between them the greater is the capacitance.
My idea was to get the closer sound to air capacitor without inter electrode resonances after been listening to some vintage variable cylindrical air caps on c906 place which I liked very much so I have not used wood because Cerrock is dead quiet in that application and I don't need another singing cap.I use that material as turntable mat also and it sounds great.
The material is actually used in furniture workshops and is much more pleasant to work with because it leaves clean corners and holes after sawing and drilling and above everything I get scrap-material in local workshop which would otherwise finish in dustbin without being recycled so I get double joy by doing such cap .
My alternative choice would be ebony but I leave it to string-piano instruments manufacturers to be able to listen to it recorded in the future seeing the national souvenirs industry in Kenya have nearly wiped out that wood. Joke aside ,I have no source of the ebony or any similarly rigid wood so this is my practical choice.
Have you already tried your cap on s/pdif out and what is the result?I have used 10nf as sufficient value.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th May 2011, 03:23 PM   #4835
diyAudio Member
 
uncle_leon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Czyżeminek, near Łdź
Nemo, where did you get such thick audio-grade copper foil? I wanted to try ribbon speaker cables at some point, but the Mundorf copper foil i have, while perfect for capacitors, is a bit too thin for speaker cable.

I intend to try dry silk at some point too, I will report back as soon as I do.

I would love to use ebony (and probably will at some point), but as you say, it's not just expensive, it's rare too. I picked mahogany as possibly the next best thing (although Baltic Birch would be worth considering too).

No, I haven't tried my cap at D-Out, simply because it works ok without any capacitors at all

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocoyo View Post
Hi Uncle

There are
Nichicon FX here 1000uf 63v @ US$ 2.5
Illinois caps 100uf 35 @ US$ 1
BGF 1000uf 35V @ US$ 25

wanna try ?
Hi Pocoyo, I could try the Nichicon FX and the Illinois cap (have you got any values lower than 100uf?).

I don't think there is much point in me testing BG F. It wouldn't help anyone because they are practically extinct, and in any case they are very unlikely to be better than FK / STD. And besides, it's way too expensive to test it just for charity - unless you are willing to let me borrow two for a week.
__________________
Studio Zy - natural, hand-crafted components for hi-end audio.
"Dare to be different, and you may stumble upon something amazing."
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2011, 12:02 AM   #4836
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
uncle_leon ,
Sorry for typo.I intended to write cotton but have came out copper.
Did you completely eliminated capacitors in s/pdif chain ,transport and dac side? I thought that one must be left for dac dc protection.
I use 12AWG copper foil for my PSU cables so why don't you try Mundorf on your speakers.12AWG foil is equal to 3,31mm2 and you can go bi-wire if you feel that you miss something with single run.You probably have 10AWG foil which have area of 5,27mm2.

Last edited by nemo1968; 18th May 2011 at 12:24 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2011, 12:41 AM   #4837
diyAudio Member
 
uncle_leon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Czyżeminek, near Łdź
Quote:
Originally Posted by nemo1968 View Post
Did you completely eliminated capacitors in s/pdif chain ,transport and dac side? I thought that one must be left for dac dc protection.
I know, most audio designers think that a DAC has to have capacitors and/or transformers at the input, but this, apparently, is not always true. I removed mine after a suggestion from Peter (who designed my DAC) and it worked fine.

I think the potential danger here is much less than with amplifier input, because any DC at input will not get amplified further. So, as long as voltages stay within limits acceptable to the receiver chip, it should be ok to remove the input caps on any DAC. I know that theoretically all sorts of bad things can happen if the two devices are not galvanically separated, but hey - as long as it works and sounds good, I don't care about the potential problems it entails
__________________
Studio Zy - natural, hand-crafted components for hi-end audio.
"Dare to be different, and you may stumble upon something amazing."
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th May 2011, 03:58 PM   #4838
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
You have to live up to your avatar !!!!

I have done simular things...you do take risks and things are sometimes less comfortable or you have to pay extra attention....but in the end the rewards are accordingly..
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th May 2011, 05:12 AM   #4839
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Tried the 2.5V regulator at the C906 position.

Simpler to setup than I initially thought-the 5534 op-amp does not require a dual power supply or any power supply at all!

Shigaclone still works, so no issues there! (Simply removing C906 resulted in the clone not reading the table of contents)

The sound?
Giving it a day or so to burn in and will report back here.....
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th May 2011, 05:41 PM   #4840
diyAudio Member
 
Erik van Voorst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Rotterdam
Default FINISHED

Today (actually a very LONG day)... I finished the Mini-PiTbull

I think I am gonna make an audiofriend very happy because I myself am very hard to please but I can say I am pleased with this.....

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
To baldly go where no man has gone before................(James Kirk)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:26 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2