Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 470 - diyAudio
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Old 22nd April 2011, 11:11 AM   #4691
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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Thanks for the help guys.....

Problem solved.

After putting the thing together again, building a solid chassis for it and putting the original short flat cable in, i still had the skipping problem.

So i made a platter adjustment tool ( same as Peter's ).

Raising the platter about 0,5mm did the job.

The help of the lock indicator was also very useful ( blue led from Buffalo DAC in background ).

So now i can continue tests with longer cable and electronics board away from motors......
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File Type: jpg web2.jpg (77.2 KB, 580 views)

Last edited by CeeVee; 22nd April 2011 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 22nd April 2011, 11:32 AM   #4692
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Great to know this CeeVee. One of mine is very very picky about even the smallest smudge of dirt on the CD. This might make it better.....

Fran
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Old 22nd April 2011, 01:10 PM   #4693
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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..for those willing to make their own PCBs here is my take for Peter's posted Bobken regulator for the 5V supply.

Please check-it for any mistakes.

I use Bss129 which i managed to source, since Bsp129 was impossible for me.
PCB is 24 X 27 mm and does no include rectifiers and CRC filter, these should be on PSU PCB.
The placing of the output cap is deliberate...it can be placed on it's side if it is too tall to fit in unit.
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File Type: png PCB.png (13.9 KB, 568 views)
File Type: jpg 5V Bobken Shunt Regulator.jpg (38.0 KB, 614 views)

Last edited by CeeVee; 22nd April 2011 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 22nd April 2011, 03:36 PM   #4694
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Default bybee

Since I experienced 3 times the positive influence of implementing Bybee's in the AC for the Shigaclone...it was about time to use it myself in the PiTbull.

I had to find out that the larger ones they DOUBLED in price (all over the world) the last month ....due to the used materials...Yeah sure.!!!!..

Anyway as mailed a few times I heard what they did and as a true audiophile I cannot live without it anymore.....so I paid the costs and bought them, I guess you can say " I'd like to get......" .

I have no room left for them inside the PiTbull so I implemented them in the Tunami cable...again a happy marriage that cable with the PiTbull.

Here you can see how I did it..mind you soldering is tricky since the sheath of copper innards of the Tunami cannot stand much heat...

I show you before and after...as if nothing happened..
This foto is taken on the other side of the wall (into the workshop) where all the Tunami's come out straight for the fusebox...

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by Erik van Voorst; 22nd April 2011 at 03:41 PM. Reason: add
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Old 22nd April 2011, 09:03 PM   #4695
c12mech is offline c12mech  United States
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Thanks for that Leoparlour.

Is there any way that I could have it shipped to one of you guys in Canada and then have it shipped to me? I tried to get it sent to my stateside address and they said it could not be shipped there.
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Old 24th April 2011, 12:54 AM   #4696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post
Erik -looking good!


Pforeman - you do mean 2 separate wires from the gnd and dout on the shiga to the dac? If you have thats ok. Do you have the resistors on the output to drop the high level ttl signal to consumer level? Your dac might not like the higher signal.
Yes, just one cat 5 wire from DOUT to the input of the DAC (soldered to the underside of the board ((no RCA jack)) ), and one wire from GRND to the ground of the DAC (underside of the board where the ground of the rca jack is).
The system sounds slightly harsh compared to my turntable.
Possibly because those two wires which eventually will only be three inches are right now 18 inches, not twisted, and run past and through ac wires, etc.

But could my system sound harsh (slightly bright) because I'm not using resistors.
Thanks,
Paul
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Old 24th April 2011, 12:03 PM   #4697
CeeVee is offline CeeVee  Portugal
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Hi all again,

Here are final Sprint PCB files for the BOBKEN 5V Reg board.
First of all with my thanks to Peter.

All small resistors are dale CMF50, 3R 3W MOX resistor is panasonic and the PS cap between between pins 4 and 7 of AD811 is soldered directly to these pins on the copper side, inside IC base if you want to use it or directly to IC pins.

BSS129 orientation is correct, drain pin is tweaked to the shown position to optimize PCB.

Hope it proves useful to the forum.
Attached Files
File Type: zip 5V BOBKEN Regulator.zip (123.0 KB, 106 views)
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Old 24th April 2011, 12:14 PM   #4698
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pforeman: I'm not sure if thats why the system might sound bright, but it's a good place to start. The shiga puts out a high level SPDIF signal, and your DAC is expecting a much lower one. It may well be that your DAC doesn't like the high level.....

The other thing is that SPDIF needs to see a constant impedance of 75R to work optimally. With the wiring you suggest, that ain't the case right now. It will work, but not at its best. Put a BNC connector as near as you can to the 300/100 resistors, and then use a 75R coax cable to the DAC.

Fran
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Old 24th April 2011, 02:33 PM   #4699
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my dac has phono input. Would it be better to use an adapter?
In the beginning (?) of this thread Peter D. made an all in one and said he skipped the resistor network (?).
I thought I'd like the signal going through as few resistors, solder joints etc as possible. Oh well, I think it might be over driving the dac as it seems it is the transient peak that is excessive.

I was thinking of possibly cutting one end off of a digital interconnect and soldering that end to the resistor network?
See pic please. I'm still a little fuzzy about ground connection from shigacl. to dac.

Thanks,
Paul
P.S. Is there a specific resistor type to use (wirewound/metal film?? etc.
I take it at least one watt)
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File Type: bmp shiga.bmp (55.5 KB, 123 views)
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Old 24th April 2011, 02:54 PM   #4700
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You're connecting the shiga to the DAC correctly - it is just gnd and data, but the correct way is to use 75R cable and connectors all the way. All the experts say that RCA jack is not proper 75R, but it does work. So if you have an RCA jack, thats fine.

All you need then is 300R and 91R (some use 100R) resistors - and your pic is correct (300R from d-out, 91R back to GND). Cutting the cable will be fine too, no problem at all.

Resistor types are probably akin to religion - everyone will have their favourites. Standard dale ones will work AOK, try what you have to hand and go for fancier ones later if you want.

Try that first and get the sound clean with no interference, then you can move on to more stuff....

Fran
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