Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 432 - diyAudio
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Old 27th February 2011, 02:35 PM   #4311
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Hi Peter,

The 1uF/500 Vcap how did that perform against the standard cap that comes with the boombox.

Where you in a situation to evaluate it in a direct comparison
(without other tweaks in one go I mean )

My experiences with Vcaps are great...but obviuosly I wonder what it does in this particular place.

I will buy the Vcap for my friend to try it out....unless ofcourse...etc etc
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Old 27th February 2011, 03:02 PM   #4312
Pocoyo is offline Pocoyo  Indonesia
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I got this problem when changed to mundorf sio 0.01uf
Solder back the original caps then bypass the mundorf
Now the shiga read all the cd, hope you success .......


Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post

I have the new one playing now just through headphones and I have one problem. The dac seems to slightly lose lock between tracks, I get a little blip at the start of each new track. I don't remember sseeing this before in previous builds, anyone get this and solve it? The other odd thing is that if you press the toc switch with no cd it searches and instead of the customary 00,this one displays "70". Haven't seen that before either.

Fran
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Old 27th February 2011, 03:10 PM   #4313
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Which cap was this pocoyo?

When I tried a different dac I don't get the same noise.....
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Old 27th February 2011, 03:57 PM   #4314
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Got it sorted......

I had wired in the output resistors incorrectly - the 90R to ground was taken off before the 300R, rather than after. FWIW, the 8804 module locked perfectly, but the buffalo didn't. Those buffaloes are picky!!

Fran
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Old 27th February 2011, 04:41 PM   #4315
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Hi guys, a few questions (again)

1. Has anyone determined if there is benefit in separating the mechanism from the PCB?
2. I've unscrewed the two screws that appear to hold them together, but they're still attached to each other, so any ideas?
3. there are lots of wire links on the PCB. Has anyone tried to replace these with low R inductors threaded with ferrite beads? I tried this ages ago on a Rotel 855 cd player and was pleasantly surprised by the drop in noise floor and increase in resolution.

As always, thanks.
Ryan
PS, will be posting results of a Theta data III transport vs Shigaclone shootout shortly.
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Old 27th February 2011, 04:52 PM   #4316
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from memory I think the mechanism is held to the pcb by some motor connections too - it's soldered down so these need extending with wires.

this is from memory so i could be wrong ...................

I did separate mine but just to give me more room for component replacement - in theory there should be some benefits but it's likely to be subtle.
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Old 27th February 2011, 04:56 PM   #4317
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Yes, you need to desolder the motor connections from the bottom PCB. You will then need to wire back in extension wires or whatever if you are mounting the motors separately. Don't forget that you will also need to extend the lever on the travel switch.

The benefits are very small - although it does give you good access to swap components etc. FWIW, its much more important to mount the whole mech on something really solid on 2 standoffs.

Don't ever remember anyone changing the wire links......


Fran
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Old 27th February 2011, 07:03 PM   #4318
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This one is for Fran...the last puck standing (soundwise)

You only have to listen to track 2 of Dire Straits Water Of Love to fell in love again with your puck....

How all this is possible I do not know and actually I do not care.....wood versus acryl used in a digital surrounding ....beats me..

Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by Erik van Voorst; 27th February 2011 at 07:07 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 27th February 2011, 07:18 PM   #4319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik van Voorst View Post
Hi Peter,

The 1uF/500 Vcap how did that perform against the standard cap that comes with the boombox.

Where you in a situation to evaluate it in a direct comparison
(without other tweaks in one go I mean )

My experiences with Vcaps are great...but obviously I wonder what it does in this particular place.

I will buy the Vcap for my friend to try it out....unless of course...etc etc
I didn't complete the new transport yet, had some problems with its functioning. Last time I checked V-Cap vs original cap I wasn't sure if V-Cap was better, but this time I installed it directly on a bard, which should be better. Also, my previous setup wasn't optimal, so any findings could be less than accurate.

There is new grade of Teflon V-Caps: CuTF which are clearly better than previous TFTF type.
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Old 27th February 2011, 07:35 PM   #4320
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Thanks, I will wait until you sorted it out...in the mean time there are lot of things to do....besides a decent amount of listening...per tweak
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