Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 43

johnm · 15th April 2008, 08:27 PM

Well rigged it all up, turned it on and.... music! WHHEWWWWWW!

Way too early to tell if the mods have made an improvement, but already I'm sure the bass is a tad deeper than before. The mechanism seems quieter as well, but that could be my mind playing tricks.

Now to tidy up all the off cuts of wires, solder, scorched carpet etc etc

Puffin had a wee search and Okapi's PDF can be found at Post 28, page 2

Puffin · 15th April 2008, 08:50 PM

Johnm. Yes, I did already have a copy of it, but had not really studied it. Thanks, it makes sense now.

luvdunhill · 16th April 2008, 01:17 AM

sale ends tomorrow at visions.ca:

https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/cat...ez31&brandId=0

I'll know on Friday when the unit arrives if it's the correct unit, but I have every reason to believe it is, after my many e-mails. Talk about bad timing.

kevinkr · 16th April 2008, 02:42 AM

Well I took a good look at the micro-controller pcb tonight and after a few measurements and some careful analysis I determined that I have unfortunately destroyed the micro-controller.

Interestingly enough none of my mods were responsible for the outcome which is a good thing since it means I can do them again.

The first thing that happened was that the flat ribbon cable driving the LCD display failed, it literally broke apart at one end and was the cause of the initial symptoms when the LCD started to flake out.

It would have ended there had I stopped at that point Sunday night, but I continued to investigate and unfortunately then plugged the other ribbon in upside down which had the effect of connecting some high voltages (>12V) to places they shouldn't go like the switch matrix - this is what killed the matrix I/O on the processor. Parts of it like the LCD driver are still alive, but there is no longer any way to communicate with it, so it is probably running some sort of loop.

Unfortunately it is mask programmed and the rom is internal so there is no possibility of just replacing the micro-controller. (I doubt I could even find the programmed part at this point.)

I have another on the way and will shift the new psu over to the next controller. I will reroute those hazardous connections so that they are hard wired to the display directly and no longer go through the ribbon, (this will prevent a reoccurence should the same thing ever happen again) and I will mount every thing on the chassis plate and not move things around too much after this.

I will procure some spare ribbon cables.

The new unit should be here in a few days.

Puffin · 16th April 2008, 07:37 AM

Can anyone help with this. If you take out the large board and supply the transport direct with 8v, you lose the power to the display. There are 4 wires to the display, 2 seem to be +5 and Grnd, what are the other two ? Does it just need 5v ?

johnm · 16th April 2008, 09:06 AM

Hi Puffin.

I initially thought the same thing, but if you wire up the PSU to the board as shown in Okapi's PDF, and plug the ribbon cable into the drive mechanism as normal the display will work fine

You will need to attach two wires to the PSU to get the LED working though, but this is in Okapi's PDF. Have you got the latest version of the PDF by the way? That one shows the LED attachment.

My modded transport is starting to sound very nice indeed now - same as before really but with a little less grain. More refined. Some may prefer the extra 'excitement' of the unmodded version. I'll hold off judgement until it's been burnt in a little longer (damn Black Gates!). Noticed that JVC mains transformer gets quite warm - is this normal anyone? Afraid I didn't get to test this when I was using the original JVC PSU board.

Cheers,

- John

johnm · 16th April 2008, 09:36 AM

Think I may give this tweak a try once the modded JVC has had time to burn in properly. Anyone tried this?

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/twe...11/110291.html

- John

stefanobilliani · 16th April 2008, 10:45 AM

Risked here too to kill the unit . I applied 8 volts

for a few seconds to the ASP and DSP chips . But fortunately they survived .

Puffin · 16th April 2008, 10:49 AM

Peter. Do you still have any of the PS boards and components for sale ? If so how much to send to U.K ?

stefanobilliani · 16th April 2008, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by johnm
Have you got the latest version of the PDF by the way? That one shows the LED attachment.

Noticed that JVC mains transformer gets quite warm - is this normal anyone? Afraid I didn't get to test this when I was using the original JVC PSU board.

Cheers,

- John

I would not worry about the transformer temperature , it is clear that it is very little transformer for the unit needs . So the warm up is natural for it .

No I didnt had the latest version of the PDF , where can I find it ?

16th April 2008, 02:42 AM	#424
kevinkr diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Boston, Massachusetts Blog Entries: 6	Post Mortem RCEZ32 Well I took a good look at the micro-controller pcb tonight and after a few measurements and some careful analysis I determined that I have unfortunately destroyed the micro-controller. Interestingly enough none of my mods were responsible for the outcome which is a good thing since it means I can do them again. The first thing that happened was that the flat ribbon cable driving the LCD display failed, it literally broke apart at one end and was the cause of the initial symptoms when the LCD started to flake out. It would have ended there had I stopped at that point Sunday night, but I continued to investigate and unfortunately then plugged the other ribbon in upside down which had the effect of connecting some high voltages (>12V) to places they shouldn't go like the switch matrix - this is what killed the matrix I/O on the processor. Parts of it like the LCD driver are still alive, but there is no longer any way to communicate with it, so it is probably running some sort of loop. Unfortunately it is mask programmed and the rom is internal so there is no possibility of just replacing the micro-controller. (I doubt I could even find the programmed part at this point.) I have another on the way and will shift the new psu over to the next controller. I will reroute those hazardous connections so that they are hard wired to the display directly and no longer go through the ribbon, (this will prevent a reoccurence should the same thing ever happen again) and I will mount every thing on the chassis plate and not move things around too much after this. I will procure some spare ribbon cables. The new unit should be here in a few days. __________________ "Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan

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15th April 2008, 08:27 PM	#421
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Well rigged it all up, turned it on and.... music! WHHEWWWWWW! Way too early to tell if the mods have made an improvement, but already I'm sure the bass is a tad deeper than before. The mechanism seems quieter as well, but that could be my mind playing tricks. Now to tidy up all the off cuts of wires, solder, scorched carpet etc etc Puffin had a wee search and Okapi's PDF can be found at Post 28, page 2

15th April 2008, 08:50 PM	#422
Puffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: U.K	Johnm. Yes, I did already have a copy of it, but had not really studied it. Thanks, it makes sense now.

16th April 2008, 01:17 AM	#423
luvdunhill diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006	sale ends tomorrow at visions.ca: https://www.visions.ca/catalogue/cat...ez31&brandId=0 I'll know on Friday when the unit arrives if it's the correct unit, but I have every reason to believe it is, after my many e-mails. Talk about bad timing.

16th April 2008, 07:37 AM	#425
Puffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: U.K	Can anyone help with this. If you take out the large board and supply the transport direct with 8v, you lose the power to the display. There are 4 wires to the display, 2 seem to be +5 and Grnd, what are the other two ? Does it just need 5v ?

16th April 2008, 09:06 AM	#426
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Hi Puffin. I initially thought the same thing, but if you wire up the PSU to the board as shown in Okapi's PDF, and plug the ribbon cable into the drive mechanism as normal the display will work fine You will need to attach two wires to the PSU to get the LED working though, but this is in Okapi's PDF. Have you got the latest version of the PDF by the way? That one shows the LED attachment. My modded transport is starting to sound very nice indeed now - same as before really but with a little less grain. More refined. Some may prefer the extra 'excitement' of the unmodded version. I'll hold off judgement until it's been burnt in a little longer (damn Black Gates!). Noticed that JVC mains transformer gets quite warm - is this normal anyone? Afraid I didn't get to test this when I was using the original JVC PSU board. Cheers, - John

16th April 2008, 09:36 AM	#427
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Think I may give this tweak a try once the modded JVC has had time to burn in properly. Anyone tried this? http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/twe...11/110291.html - John

16th April 2008, 10:45 AM	#428
stefanobilliani diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Italy	Risked here too to kill the unit . I applied 8 volts for a few seconds to the ASP and DSP chips . But fortunately they survived .

16th April 2008, 10:49 AM	#429
Puffin diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: U.K	Peter. Do you still have any of the PS boards and components for sale ? If so how much to send to U.K ?