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Old 5th February 2011, 05:39 PM   #4231
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C'mon EUVL, the guys are trying to come up with something new and well made, give them a brake. Obviously they are going to keep trying until their pucks come out spot on.

@BMW850 - I would be interested if such puck can be made of wood instead of aluminum? I would simply LOVE a rosewood puck on my CD

@Peter - Tightening the top screw didn't work for me - the magnet had no contact with the top part at all... And also, I somehow managed to misplace the screw when I was doing adjustments , so I decided to ditch the top part altogether and glue the magnet after all. I balanced it by spinning it slowly on the CD mechanism and making adjustments until I could not see any movement.

I can't comment on the difference in the sound as I wasn't doing any tests, but the mechanism itself is certainly a lot quieter now. I think the puck looks a lot sleeker too, without that el-cheapo plastic top
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Old 8th February 2011, 02:19 AM   #4232
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In the first few pages of this thread, there were a few questions, and answers about mounting the laser mechanism to the "box".

Could we have some more elaboration.

I've heard about springs, but all but a few of the pictures seem to have been deleted from the forum's web site?

In short, if I have it right: a heavy "box" and suspended via springs from the top of the box is the laser mechanism. This box is then resting on a "plinth" via stiff springs?
This is the best I can figure from Peter Daniels posts.
How do "you" do it.
Thanks,
Paul
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Old 8th February 2011, 02:58 AM   #4233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EUVL View Post
There is no mechanical component in this world that does not have a dimensional and/or geometrical tolerance, whether it is manufactured by a 1 million Euro CNC machine in Germany, or by a manually operated machine in India. As long as there is no tolerance on the drawing, then it is free tolerance, which is commonly in Europe +/-0.25mm.
The original drawing was posted here, with some additional pics: robimy shigaraki transport / CD Flatfish - Audiostereo.pl - strona 52

The tolerance, although not specified, was 0.1mm or better
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Last edited by Peter Daniel; 8th February 2011 at 03:04 AM.
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Old 8th February 2011, 03:04 AM   #4234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pforeman View Post
I've heard about springs, but all but a few of the pictures seem to have been deleted from the forum's web site?

In short, if I have it right: a heavy "box" and suspended via springs from the top of the box is the laser mechanism. This box is then resting on a "plinth" via stiff springs?
That looked as in attached pic. I later moved to a more simplified design, which brought similar results: The CD Transport
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cdt.jpg (58.2 KB, 525 views)
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Last edited by Peter Daniel; 8th February 2011 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 8th February 2011, 11:57 AM   #4235
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Hi Peter,

Where did you source the bamboo base? It looks so fancy.
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Old 8th February 2011, 12:21 PM   #4236
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I found it at the local exotic woods store.
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Old 11th February 2011, 04:21 AM   #4237
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Unable to get my hands on a ez31 (today I got an email that it has shipped),
yesterday i did major surgery on a sony boombox.
It uses a LC78646 chip. I found the chip despriptions, and can find the D out on it.
I know it won't be like the "original" Shigaclone, but I should be able to modify, and improve it right, or will it just be better junk?
Assuming I can figure out the control buttons, and redo the power supply, replace the caps on the board.
One small difficulty, I don't see anything that looks like a clock on the board.
I assume I follow the traces for X out and X in and that should lead me to the clock?
Second small difficulty, everything leaving and coming to (power) the laser circuit board does so on one 14 segment ribbon cable. The connector is labelled on the board for all the points with two different voltages.
I assume I'd leave all of the wires "correct" except what normally goes out to the analogue section, and what comes in voltage wise (which would be supplied by an improved supply)
I'd like to know if it's possible to do a different boombox something more readily available, maybe any boombox?.
Thanks,
Paul
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Old 11th February 2011, 12:52 PM   #4238
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Hi folks.

I was wondering - being as Black Gates are becoming virtually impossible to buy for reasonable prices now - what caps people are using before/after the LM7808 regulator in their Shigaclones?

I'm currently using Rubycon ZL. However I remember reading recently that the capacitor directly after a regulator should NOT be ultra-low ESR, and I think the Rubycon ZL is.....

Any recommendations for a suitable capacitor here please?

Cheers,

- John
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Old 11th February 2011, 01:25 PM   #4239
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Hi johnm,

I wont bother tell you how they sound in mine as YMMV. I have Elna SilmicII 1000uF 35V + BG 1000uF before regulator and Elna SilmicII 1000uF 25V after LM7808. SilmicII are in the big leagues for a fraction of the price. When comparing "best", it's no more a question about how bad or good they are, but a matter of taste. For me, these are the best value caps I know of for Hi-end.

Have fun...
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Old 11th February 2011, 01:54 PM   #4240
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Hmm to be honest I hated Silmic II capacitors when I used them in my 'SKA' GD150D amp - a very lifeless sound, at least to my ears. But I don't know if that was because of Silmics in the PSU, or in the signal path.

I really just want to know what the best kind of cap would be after the regulator - would Panasonic FC be OK, or is that too low ESR as well? I don't really want to experiment here, I'd rather have the correct part for the correct job.

Thanks.
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