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#411 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#412 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Johnm. Your pics are good. Did you run the transport in standard form and if so how do you rate the mods ?
It looks as though you have been able to ditch the large main board ? (or is it hidden somewhere). If you have, can you explain how, and where you picked the PS supply from to power the spindle etc What's in the grey sock like thing ?! |
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#413 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Thanks Puffin
![]() Yes I used the system for a couple of days before I did the mods and I loved the sound. I almost decided to continue without the upgrades... but you know this DIY lark - in for a penny in for a pound (if only it was just a pound!). If you search this forum for Otapi's PDF it will explain how to wire up the unit with the mods. I haven't heard it modded yet - ask me again in another 30mins ![]() P.S. The sock thing is my iPod - keeping the transport steady! |
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#414 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Thanks Peter, but shouldn't there be a third link on there? I'm just using two diodes (on the left side of my pic). The red link on the right side dosn't appear to lead anywhere...
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#415 |
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diyAudio Member
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With two diodes, you only need red link on the left and the CT from tranformer is connected directly to negative pin of first cap.
This will only work properly wit CT transformer. With single secondary, you need 4 diodes.
__________________
www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#416 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Ahaaa right that explains it then - OK so I need two more MUR860s, then connect up as you originally showed, and I assume the white dashes by two of the three holes for each diode position, show where to put the remaining two MUR's?
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#417 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Johnm. Have you ditched the main board ?
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#418 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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No I still have it in the cupboard JUST incase
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#419 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: U.K
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Johnm, sorry what I meant was (ditched i.e not using it)
In the original case the PS for the Transport comes off the main board. I assume that you have taken the supply direct from the new power supply, to the connector previously coming from the main board. It also looks as though the PS for the display comes off the main board, if so how are you now powering this ? |
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#420 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Puffin, that PDF file Otapi posted will tell you everything you need to know about this. I can't remember what page it's on off-hand - try running a search for all posts by Otapi.
Yep running it without main board, and the power for the LED comes off new PSU board just after rectifiers. - J |
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