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#4021 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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I was thinking about that but I wasnt sure if making one out of aluminum would be a good idea since most cd pucks are made out of some sort of plastic
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#4022 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leoparleur Hi, can we see pictures, you seem in heaven? ;0) Guy Tomorrow I will take a photo and post it.I was busy with clock suspension and haven't turned on pc till today. Last edited by nemo1968; 20th April 2010 at 12:26 AM. Reason: not completed |
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#4023 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
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Hi all,
Ok, so here's a template I drew up - it's as close as I could get, but I drilled/cut my top plate to it and it fits well. BTW, this is for the mechanism without the plastic cover. Just remember (1) if you lay it out from the backside, reverse the drawing, (2) make sure you print it out at 100% (check it before you cut), and (3) from a mechanical drawing point of view, its over-dimensioned, but this way you can start from whatever reference you want. Bill |
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#4024 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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The two left wheels are not used.That side is placed on air cushion.
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#4025 |
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diyAudio Member
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#4026 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Quebec
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Quote:
I would have so many questions because I'm curious but I'll keep a reserve. Did you isolate the motors or plan onto? Is this the prototype or final product? If you plan to bring it to a better level, it is a nice challenge. Keep it up! |
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#4027 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Quebec
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#4028 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Quote:
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#4029 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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This is a screw puck.It is made of carbon too.The mas of the puck is little bit less than one cd disc.I have removed the metal part on the plastic cd holder and inserted a carbon ring to make holder as rigid as possible.Puck can be made easy.Just cut one 12mm and one 15mm peace of tube and then make a 6mm thread on 12mm part so it can clamp that horizontal 15 mm part.The diameter of the tube is 28mm.You just have to insert a 6mm screw in the plastic holder hole.When you screw it you center it but you can miss some mm because it so light that it can't cause extra vibrations.It sounds better than plexy and magnet that I tried.I think that lower mass is what that transport need.I have tried hi mass transport configuration but I didn't liked it at all.That rod-air version is correct version to me.We can not eliminate vibrations completly so why don't control them here and there to find some intersinergy instead to kill them completly and some music by the way.
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#4030 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Hi all,
you probably don't really mind but I read the whole thread from A-Z and at this point I decided I wanted one: ![]() Call me esoteric, but I have rarely seen a more "scandinavian" design... you'll have to tell me about that audio1st ... EZ's are on order for building 2 clones, one for myself which will be "heavily inspired" by the one pictured above and another one (no decision yet on final design) for my cousin pierre aka WaveFlex in the speaker section. He made me a birthday present in the form of a kit for some sexy bookshelf cabinets using translam/CNC as for these: Troels' PMS (multilayer assembly) build thread My design is more like this one actually but with increased volume to suit the Vifa PL14 (sorry for the forum beeing french, but you get an idea scrolling down having a look at the pics) Inspiration "SA2K" avec caisses LEGO - Enceintes Guess what his birthday present will be... Thanks to Peter for starting this thread and to everybody contributing to it! Cheers, Max |
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