Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 40

johnm · 15th April 2008, 03:23 PM

I'm using an Antex 25W iron with a 'pencil' tip, and using solder wick.

The other iron I use for large jobs is a Weller 60W job.

I think my close-run incident with the lifted solder pad was just because I was having difficulty unsoldering those SMT capacitors. I've been a bit wary of unsoldering items on the board since...

At some point I will need to get a temperature controlled iron I think... along with a new PSU transformer, a custom built aluminium case for the Shigaclone, a new pair of speakers etc etc etc

- John

Badge · 15th April 2008, 03:30 PM

I am late to the party as usual. Are any of the current offered JVC's using the same components?

kevinkr · 15th April 2008, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Badge
I am late to the party as usual. Are any of the current offered JVC's using the same components?

No... Your choice is limited to the RCEZ31 or if you are up for a major challenge the RCEZ32 which is still obtainable in the US.

johnm · 15th April 2008, 04:23 PM

I think the RC-EZ51H was mentioned as a replacement (near start of this thread) that would work?

- John

Vladco · 15th April 2008, 04:30 PM

Kevin where are you able to find RCEZ32?
I'm not able to find anything.
Vlad

johnm · 15th April 2008, 04:33 PM

Wee question: are those Citizen crystals directional? Peter I noticed you'd taken the metal covering off of yours... any benefits?

kevinkr · 15th April 2008, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Vladco
Kevin where are you able to find RCEZ32?
I'm not able to find anything.
Vlad

I may have cornered the supply, but they have been available on eBay up until now. So far I have bought 3.. (One was stolen, one had an experimental accident late the other night, and now the controller may be permanently dead, and another one is on its way.)

When working the RCEZ32 based solution can sound very good. I was pretty impressed after the last round of mods. I will share more details once I know that the thing is actually working again and my mods aren't the cause of the controller problems I am having. (I don't think they are - I can think of two unrelated things I did that might account for the issues.)

kevinkr · 15th April 2008, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by johnm
Wee question: are those Citizen crystals directional? Peter I noticed you'd taken the metal covering off of yours... any benefits?

Hi John,
They aren't directional, and it looks to me like Peter slipped some heat shrink tubing over the metal cylinder that houses the crystal. Removing the housing will probably destroy the crystal. I installed mine without the tubing. (Didn't have any of a small enough diameter, and I am not all that crazy about thermally "distressing"

the crystal with my heat gun anyway.)

Peter Daniel · 15th April 2008, 04:52 PM

I put some soft padding over crystal and secured it with heatshrink. To me it seems like a bit of improvement, but I can't be completely sure about it

johnm · 15th April 2008, 06:36 PM

I read somewhere that it's good to keep the crystal as free from vibrations as possible so it certainly wouldn't have hurt - I'm going to glue gun mine to the circuit board.

Peter - probably a simple question... for an expert

- but where do I put links on your PSU board for the 12v dc to get to the main board? I've followed Otapi's DIY PDF to the letter, but I think he left out the bit about needing to jumper from the small board to the big.

- John

15th April 2008, 03:30 PM	#392
Badge diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Oregon	I am late to the party as usual. Are any of the current offered JVC's using the same components? __________________ The freaks stick together, they are a tight old crew

15th April 2008, 04:52 PM	#399
Peter Daniel diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Toronto, Canada	I put some soft padding over crystal and secured it with heatshrink. To me it seems like a bit of improvement, but I can't be completely sure about it __________________ www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC

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15th April 2008, 03:23 PM	#391
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	I'm using an Antex 25W iron with a 'pencil' tip, and using solder wick. The other iron I use for large jobs is a Weller 60W job. I think my close-run incident with the lifted solder pad was just because I was having difficulty unsoldering those SMT capacitors. I've been a bit wary of unsoldering items on the board since... At some point I will need to get a temperature controlled iron I think... along with a new PSU transformer, a custom built aluminium case for the Shigaclone, a new pair of speakers etc etc etc - John

15th April 2008, 04:30 PM	#395
Vladco diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Denver	Kevin where are you able to find RCEZ32? I'm not able to find anything. Vlad

15th April 2008, 04:33 PM	#396
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	Wee question: are those Citizen crystals directional? Peter I noticed you'd taken the metal covering off of yours... any benefits?

15th April 2008, 06:36 PM	#400
johnm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Hampshire	I read somewhere that it's good to keep the crystal as free from vibrations as possible so it certainly wouldn't have hurt - I'm going to glue gun mine to the circuit board. Peter - probably a simple question... for an expert - but where do I put links on your PSU board for the 12v dc to get to the main board? I've followed Otapi's DIY PDF to the letter, but I think he left out the bit about needing to jumper from the small board to the big. - John