Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

[Peter Daniel]

Originally Posted by merlin2069er

So, I guess your just using the door switch to power the unit on/off?

The door switch is used to read table of content (TOC). It needs to be permanently shorted and opens only to read TOC. You can do without it, but the number of tracks won't match when you change CD. Of course TOC resets itself each time you power on the unit.

[Peter Daniel]

Originally Posted by Ekkeri

Is those "clamps" just press fitted or clued also?

This is how you remove the shaft: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I think there is some glue there too.

[Ekkeri]

Originally Posted by Peter Daniel

This is how you remove the shaft: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

I think there is some glue there too.

Nice, thanks.. Non-magnetic would be nice, but I'm not sure if that 'ball bearing thingy' is the way to go.

Just wondering, can mechanics/mounting/chassis be too stiff/rigid if mounting CD mechanism with 2 bolt like suggested here? Is there overkill in this (that kills the sound)? I have >12kg of copper to start.. and enough lead and sand.

[Peter Daniel]

Having a screw on clamp is nice, but this is not critical to the sound of the transport, it certainly provides some improvement but there are so many other, more efficient, ways to improve it as well.

One way to try how much elimination of magnetic clamp improves the sound is mounting CD without it, using only a piece of paper to secure it: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

[Peter Daniel]

Originally Posted by Ekkeri

Just wondering, can mechanics/mounting/chassis be too stiff/rigid if mounting CD mechanism with 2 bolt like suggested here? Is there overkill in this (that kills the sound)? I have >12kg of copper to start.. and enough lead and sand.

If you are asking if it can be overbuilt, I'd say yes. I've built this chassis: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story attaching mechanism's frame and motors directly and it sounded rather disappointing.

[Ekkeri]

Originally Posted by Peter Daniel

If you are asking if it can be overbuilt, I'd say yes. I've built this chassis: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story attaching mechanism's frame and motors directly and it sounded rather disappointing.

That's why I asked.. but what if it's mounted only with two standoffs? Would that be ok, no matter how stiff rest of the chassis is?

[Peter Daniel]

Probably so, but it's hard to predict.

[Jim Leach]

Totally caught up now... (still catching my breath!)

I like the last bit, (that I would have missed) re the external clock... (Note I barely understand all the lingo etc. but I'm usually a fast learner.)

I have some other unrelated issues that I will start other posts on.

Mr. Peter Daniel: You sir have started a revolution here! Excellent work by everyone all around. Some amazingly creative enclosures and amazing work with materials. And on a GLOBAL scale. Truly amazing...

[m.massimo]

Originally Posted by Ekkeri

That's why I asked.. but what if it's mounted only with two standoffs? Would that be ok, no matter how stiff rest of the chassis is?

I use a single standoff. I made some tests in the past with 4-3-2-1 standoffs and a single one was clearly the best in my stiff wooden enclosure, but you have to try with your specific enclosure. To avoid frame bending I use other two standoffs with one nut and a washer as stops. In normal condition the frame doesn't touch the washer.

[Ekkeri]

Originally Posted by m.massimo

I use a single standoff. I made some tests in the past with 4-3-2-1 standoffs and a single one was clearly the best in my stiff wooden enclosure, but you have to try with your specific enclosure. To avoid frame bending I use other two standoffs with one nut and a washer as stops. In normal condition the frame doesn't touch the washer.

What corner you use? Did you tried all of them?

I think I will try 1 & 2, thanks..