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Old 6th February 2010, 06:02 PM   #3921
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Hi Fran

I can't tell from the photo - Is that the original crystal you have used or another type?

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post
Wow, it works!!

Almost can't believe that it actually works, first time out of the can!!

Here are my pics. Tell you what, my work looks a lot better when the photos are from far away!! (edit: the first 2 pics, I don't have the crystal in because it was still in the shiga but it goes right beside the resistor).

I've only listened for about 5 mins, and like herewegoagain I think its a little more on top right now, more transparent (better highs?), but also, the bass is much tighter. Difference isn;t massive, but is noticeable.

If it settles down a bit and becomes a shade smoother I will be a very happy camper.


How long did it take the rest of you to see this settle down?

Fran
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Old 6th February 2010, 07:57 PM   #3922
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Its the citizen crystal as per Peters post about 10 pages back.

I have the original ones but used the citizen....

Fran
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Old 6th February 2010, 08:11 PM   #3923
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I've been doing some experimenting with the shiga today. Having put in the reclocking circuit, I found that it was better in almost every way EXCEPT that it was now a bit bright. If you had a sibilant recording, it was doubly so now. Now this is something that I am fairly sensitive to (as are my fostex horns), so I had to do something. The problem was that the sound in every other way was better: better 3D soundstage, much improved bass, separation, timing and so on.

So then I remembered C906. Remember that cap - the original was a cheapo electrolytic. There was a string of posts about it back up the thread. Anyway I had put in a socket so that I could try out different caps at the time. I didn't search, but I seemed to remember the consensus was that film caps gave a bit more crisp sound, and the original electrolytic was warmer sounding. I had an ero film cap in mine. So I thought, maybe now is a good time to experiment with this cap again.

So I tried back in the electrolytic, and while the sound did warm up a little and the sibialnce went down, I lost some of that 3D dimensionality. I put back in the ero and had it back again the way it was. So I tried a 3rd cap, again a film one, a pull from something or other. Anyway this one seems like a good compromise, keeping the improved souindstage etc, but losing a bit of the brightness.


I would be very interested in others opinions on this. If you can, fit a pair of sockets for C906. Be careful removing it from the board - this is one cap you definitely do not want to lose. Carefully keep it to one side so you can slip it back in if needed.

I don't think the value is too critical, I know the ero is very low value, it could be 0.1uF, the other film cap is 0.22uf, the original a bit higher.

It seems to me (from memory) that as the reclocking has improved the sound, there is more change in C906 than the first time around. Its well worth experimenting with doing the reclocking in conjunction with C906.

EDIT: see the posts here, or search this thread for C906: Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story


Fran

Last edited by woodturner-fran; 6th February 2010 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 6th February 2010, 08:18 PM   #3924
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Actually doing that search back there I saw some of the build pics from Eriks monster Pitbull!!!

Haven't seen him on here in a while - going to send him a pm about this!!

Fran
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Old 7th February 2010, 03:46 PM   #3925
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I've put in the reclocking, but using what was available in my local Maplins: A 74LS74 and a 74HC14.
I'm getting a slightly more expansive sound plus a bit more brightness, as others have found.
However the result still doesn't equal the sound I'm getting from my QA-550 WAV player, using I2S direct into a TDA1543 dac. It's a pity that we can't get I2S out of the shigaclone.
Perhaps I need to try again, using the recommended ICs.
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Old 7th February 2010, 06:03 PM   #3926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post
Actually doing that search back there I saw some of the build pics from Eriks monster Pitbull!!!

Haven't seen him on here in a while - going to send him a pm about this!!

Fran
No need Fran here I am

I just picked up the last 5 pages and indeed a lot going on again....

I myself recently ended the building of a monster NOS DAC so to speak to match The PitBull together with Anton we think we made something that has found his match (I did post the pic somewhere on this thread).

The PitBull is still going strong at an average of 3 hours an evening eversince.

I do not know what you wanted to ask, but I myself use a Translite AT&T cable from the PitBull towards a Genesis Digital Lens and after clocking and buffering the signal goes straight into my Dac...remember

Even with The Lens it proved still very wortwhile for me to use an aftermarket clock with dedicated powersupply on the Shiga...

As Cap C906 I use a wondercap from way back.....

Hoped to be of any help...
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Last edited by Erik van Voorst; 7th February 2010 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 7th February 2010, 10:10 PM   #3927
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Ah yes Erik, now I remember..... I had forgotten about you using the at&t system in yours - but I did remember all the different power supplies though....


This new mod has me intrigued, the sound has indeed changed for the better and the highs have calmed down a lot now.



Fran
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Old 8th February 2010, 07:04 AM   #3928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post
Ah yes Erik, now I remember..... I had forgotten about you using the at&t system in yours - but I did remember all the different power supplies though....


This new mod has me intrigued, the sound has indeed changed for the better and the highs have calmed down a lot now.



Fran
Good to read...I myself( different to Peter's experience) do encourage people to experiment with aftermarket clocks and dedicated power supplies as you have read in the past...

But again that is the advantage of using a forum...lots of people experimenting and taking it to a higher level for themselves ...be it with a naked version or a "monster"......you have a choice
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Old 8th February 2010, 11:13 PM   #3929
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Click the image to open in full size.

This is what I've come up with so far (2.5 hrs into the build).

I got it connected to a 12v sla battery for now. I've got to finish up the power supply and build a case for it.

Does the door switch need to be connected in order to get it working?
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Old 8th February 2010, 11:24 PM   #3930
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yes - it will power on, but it will only spin up and read the TOC when you close the door switch.

8V supply is recommended so watch the temps when using that 12v battery. Run it through a 7808 reg first to be safe.

Well done!!

Fran
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