Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 385 - diyAudio
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Old 31st January 2010, 10:40 PM   #3841
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BTW, I posted the updated info on transport built here: The CD Transport
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Old 1st February 2010, 07:52 AM   #3842
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Excellent new thread Peter, very useful for beginners.
I tried the reclocking scheme you posted at #3786 but I got very messy dout signal. See pictures below: first dout from the board (pin 29 LC78601) with reclocking circuit not connected, second the same with reclocking circuit connected, third dout from the reclocking circuit.
Unfortunately I wasn't able to listen music through the reclocking cause for unknown (at least to me) reason, the remote control stop working and digits on LCD screen disappear when the reclocking circuit is connected. I tried many times with reclocking circuit on and off, but the same rule. It would be very interesting from a listening point of view to see if there's a difference between these two very different signals.
I'll try to build again the reclocking circuit from scratch to see if I get the same results.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Dout w-out rck connected 1V 200ns.jpg (12.7 KB, 597 views)
File Type: jpg Dout w-reclocking connected 1V 200ns.jpg (15.1 KB, 587 views)
File Type: jpg Dout reclocked 1V 200ns.jpg (13.9 KB, 581 views)
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Old 1st February 2010, 10:36 AM   #3843
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The reclocked signal is a lot lower than the others isn't it? Is this before or after the 300/100 resistors?

Fran
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Old 1st February 2010, 11:09 AM   #3844
jims is online now jims  United States
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I built my first Shinga almost two years ago, and it is still sounds better than anything else I have. I wish I could build a second based on Peter's new suggestions, but can't find a source in the US. Anyone know of one or any of the Canadian fellow DIYers willing to send me one?

Thanks

JimS
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Old 1st February 2010, 11:13 AM   #3845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodturner-fran View Post
The reclocked signal is a lot lower than the others isn't it? Is this before or after the 300/100 resistors?

Fran
Yes it is, about 50%.
Before resistors.
These are the signals after output resistors.
First pic is with reclocking circuit not connected (I'm sorry I lost 200ns pic)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Dout after optR 200mV 20ns.jpg (11.5 KB, 558 views)
File Type: jpg Dout rckd after optR 100mV 200ns.jpg (14.9 KB, 556 views)
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Old 1st February 2010, 11:22 AM   #3846
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just to inform You all quickly...
i have finally (well, ALMOST ) finished my Shigaclone... at least finally i have some pictures to show

here is the link:
- Shigaclone project (Pulse.Audio.Team)

still i would like to make Fetishizator for my digital output (power supply is allredy built in and waiting... i have used 2gr weight for the transport like Eric did but i think i will remove 1gr - i get some mechanical noises when my transport is going back to the start position (when finishing the cd) and it didn't do that before i put the weight there....
so i will cut the weight down to 1gr.....


i have to thank everybody that helped to build this fine thread... especially to Peter Daniel who started it.... thank You guys.....
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Old 1st February 2010, 06:21 PM   #3847
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http://products.nichicon.co.jp/en/pdf/XJA043/e-kz.pdf

Anyone try these as a replacement for the black gate caps in the power supply?
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Old 2nd February 2010, 04:43 AM   #3848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin2069er View Post
http://products.nichicon.co.jp/en/pdf/XJA043/e-kz.pdf

Anyone try these as a replacement for the black gate caps in the power supply?

i have tried the "regular" cap's (what i had in my junk box)... also sounded nice... but BG's are better no doubt...
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Old 2nd February 2010, 11:53 AM   #3849
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Click the image to open in full size.

Those are the only two ceramic caps we need to remove, right?

Just double checking.
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Old 2nd February 2010, 01:12 PM   #3850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlin2069er View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

Those are the only two ceramic caps we need to remove, right?

Just double checking.
Merlin - nope, the one on the left is not a cap - it's a jumper!! - the RH one is correct - the other smd cap is 'round the corner to the left!' - have a closer look at the pics on Peter's posts - the 2nd smd cap is on the LH end of that chip - under the heatsink

Last edited by herewegoagain; 2nd February 2010 at 01:14 PM.
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