Damn you guys, you got me to remove the FT1 12nF and resolder the FT3 0.1uF back.
Still verified my old opinion... To my ears and system, the loss of frequency extremes and spatial info is severe with the 100nF cap, and the reading ability is not that much better. I will keep it like this for a few days and change it back for a final trial of the 12nF. The winner will receive a wood/wax treatment.
In the meantime, I am also ordering some wet tantalum caps to try. Unfortunately I cannot find them new in ~10nF. Perhaps I will try some mica as well if i manage to spare some money in my incoming order...
Still verified my old opinion... To my ears and system, the loss of frequency extremes and spatial info is severe with the 100nF cap, and the reading ability is not that much better. I will keep it like this for a few days and change it back for a final trial of the 12nF. The winner will receive a wood/wax treatment.
In the meantime, I am also ordering some wet tantalum caps to try. Unfortunately I cannot find them new in ~10nF. Perhaps I will try some mica as well if i manage to spare some money in my incoming order...
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Has anyone tried something like those?
SSG-1 0.05uf ±0.5% 350V silver mica capacitor - 10 pcs. | eBay
or
250V 0.01uF 2% tol. SGM silver mica capacitors. Lot of 10 pc. NEW | eBay
SSG-1 0.05uf ±0.5% 350V silver mica capacitor - 10 pcs. | eBay
or
250V 0.01uF 2% tol. SGM silver mica capacitors. Lot of 10 pc. NEW | eBay
I have been using the 0.01 uF for five years now without problems despite the original 0.1 uF value.
The caps I tried were all 0.01 uF....
Play time 
I decided to give the wood/wax a try.
The FT1 was so easy to open with a simple pair of thin wire-cutters.
The teflon was clean, dry and tightly rolled on itself.
The side caps are also nice. I might use them somewhere. Like as a thrust pad for my SL1200
I applied the wax without issues, and a simple measurement proved that unless something weird happened that is not easily detected, the capacitor remained intact. Its capacity is rock stable where it was, and the dissipation factor again remained at nearly 0. And TBH I was not even particularly careful with it
That's for those that worry that such an operation ruins the capacitor's characteristics. OK it alters them, but the main parameters remain the same.
Oh and if a type is safer for such operation, that is teflon, since the wax temperature does not affect it at all. Other types like electrolytics might be more sensitive.
On to try it now
I decided to give the wood/wax a try.
The FT1 was so easy to open with a simple pair of thin wire-cutters.
The teflon was clean, dry and tightly rolled on itself.
The side caps are also nice. I might use them somewhere. Like as a thrust pad for my SL1200
I applied the wax without issues, and a simple measurement proved that unless something weird happened that is not easily detected, the capacitor remained intact. Its capacity is rock stable where it was, and the dissipation factor again remained at nearly 0. And TBH I was not even particularly careful with it
That's for those that worry that such an operation ruins the capacitor's characteristics. OK it alters them, but the main parameters remain the same.
Oh and if a type is safer for such operation, that is teflon, since the wax temperature does not affect it at all. Other types like electrolytics might be more sensitive.
On to try it now
Attachments
First impressions are rather positive.
Clarity has increased and harshness on highs is reduced.
The cap is fresh though, so it will need a few hours of breaking in to reveal its true colors. For now bass is rather weak and the mids seem to lack bite and power. We'll see in a few days.
Oh by the way SACD readability seems to have slightly increased. I have one that was skipping a lot, and now seems to play more easily. Still no luck with CDRs though...
Clarity has increased and harshness on highs is reduced.
The cap is fresh though, so it will need a few hours of breaking in to reveal its true colors. For now bass is rather weak and the mids seem to lack bite and power. We'll see in a few days.
Oh by the way SACD readability seems to have slightly increased. I have one that was skipping a lot, and now seems to play more easily. Still no luck with CDRs though...
Indeed always fun to read..and indeed like Rudy said a shame that a lot of builders do not post their efforts in order for us (and them) to learn.
Same on the dutch forum...nearly 200.000 visits who watch the topic and less then five real builders...ahum
I think they are nearly obliged to do so...since they get their info from here themselves..
Same on the dutch forum...nearly 200.000 visits who watch the topic and less then five real builders...ahum
I think they are nearly obliged to do so...since they get their info from here themselves..
Hi Again
,Where do you feed the 2.5 volt and where do you scratch...I would like to have a go..
Did you ever succesfully implemented 2.5-5-8 volt at the same time on the board..
QFT guys... I would love to see this thread more active...
BTW I have just tried Erik's "antiscate" thingy and I can confirm it makes a significant difference. I an word, the sound has more authority. Especially nice in piano sessions.
I really do not feel comfortable with the weight solution though... if someone moves the transport it can get ugly. Something like a spring or a rubber band would be safer if we can find one that has the right tension and does not alter it in different positions of the sled.
BTW I have just tried Erik's "antiscate" thingy and I can confirm it makes a significant difference. I an word, the sound has more authority. Especially nice in piano sessions.
I really do not feel comfortable with the weight solution though... if someone moves the transport it can get ugly. Something like a spring or a rubber band would be safer if we can find one that has the right tension and does not alter it in different positions of the sled.
Hi, I cannot find the note you are referring to...but is it as simple as 2.5 volt plus on the positive leg and gnd on the negative leg on the C906 position and leave the C906 cap (elco) on....