Hmm. I decided last night to go with the P-A SSR01 and ordered the PCBs and parts enough to build 2. Hopefully it will perform as well as it seems the Salas is working for you.
BTW, I really want to use a Tent XO, but the shipping cost to the U.S. is more than the price of the clock! I was looking for alternatives and found this
Low Jitter TCXO 16 9344MHz Phase Noise 135DBC 1kHz Tentlabs Compatible | eBay
Don't know a thing about it.
BTW, I really want to use a Tent XO, but the shipping cost to the U.S. is more than the price of the clock! I was looking for alternatives and found this
Low Jitter TCXO 16 9344MHz Phase Noise 135DBC 1kHz Tentlabs Compatible | eBay
Don't know a thing about it.
TheGimp, whatever were the results of this adjustment? What was the voltage at Pin 40 which gave you the best results?
Tibi (or anyone else who's done it), I'm about to solder the LCD to the display board. Is there some sort of thin film on the backside of the board that needs to be removed, or is it a straight mount-then-solder job? Should I back it up to the ribbon connector solder joints, or is a small space required so the back of the LCD doesn't touch those blobs?
Oh BTW, Tibi, in the bag of parts sent with my second kit I can't seem to find a 10uF electrolytic cap for C67.
Oh BTW, Tibi, in the bag of parts sent with my second kit I can't seem to find a 10uF electrolytic cap for C67.
Tibi, I may have spoken too soon. Is the small teardrop shaped 10uF polarized tantalum the replacement for the standard 'lytic? The BOM shows that as an alternate part for C67. My display board that you built has the can type cap on it so that's what I was looking for.
LCD have only on top a protective plastic which need to be removed. You can do this after soldering.
First mount ribbon connector. The backlight is between LCD and ribbon connector. If you like to "protect" the backlight from connector, even I do not see this necessary, you may add a thin plastic foil or scotch/adhesive band.
10uF cap can be tantalum or Al can.
Regards,
Tibi
Hi everybody. have to report an an issue has started recently with my transport. sometimes transport fails to start the CD, as it would not be enough power to spin the CD. So ,after reading TOC and after I push play button the CD rotates slowly once and stops or starts the CD and has no power to reach the necessary rotations and stops. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?
This actually happened occasionally on old Shigaclones as well, I am guessing it is some kind of inherent flaw. Unless it happens a lot, just press TOC button to reset the transport and forget about it.
The 50V version actually sounds slightly better than 25V in a Shiga PSU (a little more depth and detail). Sand the leads down until they fit.
Well, I have a few of the 50V STDs so I tried to sand down the leads. Jarek, I don't know how you may have done it but I got nowhere. So I snipped the leads down and soldered thinner leads that I snipped from one of the smaller 'lytics that I used. Worked great.
So now I have one of Tibi's PSes built with BGs and a silver mica running at 10.2 VDC for the P-A SSR01 super-reg that will feed 5V to the Tent clock. Going to build the second one tomorrow which will feed the other SSR01 that will supply the 5V to the DSP.
The circuit board for the SSR01, BTW, is a thing of beauty. Gotta get those built up as well. My scope is going to be very busy testing these things out.
Did we decide that those green LEDs on the PS boards were maybe too noisy to keep in the circuit?