Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 353

dzuvela · 20th July 2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by leoparleur
Hi Shigaclone is coming slowly.

Can someone explain me the use of this black cable and staple to the clear lens? Can I remove it, I'd like to put the display right against the rear of my stainless steel front panel?

Thanks,
Guy

Quote:

Originally posted by Morfeus

this is exactly what the cable does. I wouldn't remove it.

I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.

leoparleur · 20th July 2009, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dzuvela

I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.

Thanks dzuvela, your input is very welcomed, I'm taking it in consideration.

Guy

Morfeus · 21st July 2009, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by dzuvela

I believe this has sense while in original plastic boombox. Huge plastic box might accumulate a lot of static electricity and then shift it to the display glass.
However, once removed from plastic box, and mounted in metal or even wooden box, static electricity has no influence at the display.

According to that, no grounding neccesseary. I did remove that from mine. Nothing wrong happenned in last 5 months with.

Leaving that wire in place will not hurt either.

we tried that, when we mounted the display in a metal case and had problems when removing. So we put it in place again.

dzuvela · 21st July 2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Morfeus

we tried that, when we mounted the display in a metal case and had problems when removing. So we put it in place again.

What kind of problems exactly?

Morfeus · 21st July 2009, 12:41 PM

Flickering display, numbers only shown partly. As soon as we re-installed the foil and the earthing cable everything was fine again. We did not have contact problems.

woodturner-fran · 21st July 2009, 02:31 PM

Just thought I'd post an update about some trouble i was having with the second shiga I built -see here:

linky

So I replaced the mechanism again (the one I installed had a really bad platter and had huge wobble). Anyway..no joy, wouldn't work. So I took out the control board for one last go and resoldered every connectionI had made and voila! it works. I can't say exactly where the problem was, but my hunch was a a spot where I had removed an smd cap with a little too much vigour and it pulled a trace. I fixed that trace, but it was extremely fine. This time I did it with 3x glasses. Hunch is that the soldering there was a bit suspect. I can't remember the numbering right now, but it was that one that no-one really knew what it did and was present on some boards but not others. I'll look it up later.

So alls well that ends well (I hope!)

Fran
Yeah, it was "cap 6" on the okapi PDF....

SamL · 22nd July 2009, 04:23 AM

Hi Jam Today,

Not sure if you received my PM. Sorry for not replying bec my mail option is not setup correctly.
Anyway, just to let you know that I got myself a cheap Sanyo boombox and will see how it turn out.

dzuvela · 22nd July 2009, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Morfeus
Flickering display, numbers only shown partly. As soon as we re-installed the foil and the earthing cable everything was fine again. We did not have contact problems.

I see.
Thank you for that information. It is worth to know for everyone here.

What I did in my shiga-case, was to remove display from orignal PCB with other elements, and mount all at custom shaped PCB (experimental type with dots).
I really don't remember if plastic folie was removed, but I am 100% sure that grounding was.
Admit that I am not informed in details of how LCD operates. Since I got no problem with, thought that LCD grounding is not important.

Morfeus, thank you once again for sharing your information.

Morfeus · 22nd July 2009, 03:42 PM

I unsoldered the LCD from its PCB and reconnected it with ribbon cable. The PCB is taped somewhere into the enclosure where it had space.

Skorpio · 25th July 2009, 01:17 PM

I have best results with analog output, new coupling caps and resistors changed.

Digital out via PDs NONOS dac was not able to compete, I suspect du to SPDIF connection.

My supply is simple 8,2V zener (shunt) and external 12 V supply...

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

21st July 2009, 12:41 PM	#3525
Morfeus diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Heidelberg	Flickering display, numbers only shown partly. As soon as we re-installed the foil and the earthing cable everything was fine again. We did not have contact problems.

21st July 2009, 02:31 PM	#3526
woodturner-fran diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Ireland	Just thought I'd post an update about some trouble i was having with the second shiga I built -see here: linky So I replaced the mechanism again (the one I installed had a really bad platter and had huge wobble). Anyway..no joy, wouldn't work. So I took out the control board for one last go and resoldered every connectionI had made and voila! it works. I can't say exactly where the problem was, but my hunch was a a spot where I had removed an smd cap with a little too much vigour and it pulled a trace. I fixed that trace, but it was extremely fine. This time I did it with 3x glasses. Hunch is that the soldering there was a bit suspect. I can't remember the numbering right now, but it was that one that no-one really knew what it did and was present on some boards but not others. I'll look it up later. So alls well that ends well (I hope!) Fran Yeah, it was "cap 6" on the okapi PDF....

22nd July 2009, 04:23 AM	#3527
SamL diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Wgtn	Hi Jam Today, Not sure if you received my PM. Sorry for not replying bec my mail option is not setup correctly. Anyway, just to let you know that I got myself a cheap Sanyo boombox and will see how it turn out.

22nd July 2009, 03:42 PM	#3529
Morfeus diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Heidelberg	I unsoldered the LCD from its PCB and reconnected it with ribbon cable. The PCB is taped somewhere into the enclosure where it had space.

25th July 2009, 01:17 PM	#3530
Skorpio diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Denmark	I have best results with analog output, new coupling caps and resistors changed. Digital out via PDs NONOS dac was not able to compete, I suspect du to SPDIF connection. My supply is simple 8,2V zener (shunt) and external 12 V supply...