Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 34 - diyAudio
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Old 13th April 2008, 03:32 PM   #331
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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Thanks for the replies guys - I'll go for that transformer then... with my eyes closed

As I was so impressed with the basic sound of this transport I decided to stick as closely as possible to the existing values (apart from C916), but using better components - I didn't want to change anything too drastically that might alter the sound that I was so impressed by. Here are the values I ended up with:

C939 (E1) - 100uF / 63V Elna Silmic (Originally 100uF)

C953 (E2) - 330uF / 35V Panasonic FM (Originally 220uF)

C929 (E3) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)

C934 (E4) - 4.7uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 10uF)

C916 (E5) - 47uF / 50V Black Gate 'N' (Originally 220uF)

C906 (E6) - 0.1uF / 400V Auricap (Originally 0.1uF)

Unfortunately I won't be able to hear what it sounds like until next week when some parts for the PSU turn up, but I'll let you know then

- John
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Old 13th April 2008, 09:13 PM   #332
OneyedK is offline OneyedK  Belgium
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I'll use Rubycon ZLG as a replacement.
Already did a few digital boards from Denon with them,
they only need a few hours break in and they sound perfect.
Don't listen to them the first 15 minutes after power up, you don't want to hear the result
(leakage current is too high at that moment, but after break in, it's unmeasurable.)
(If you charge a 25V rated cap with only 5V, it takes longer to "burn in")
I trust them better than old stock Black Gates.
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Old 13th April 2008, 09:15 PM   #333
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Quote:
Originally posted by Franz Gysi
A question: isn't it a disadvantage, to have a open drive?

No interferences / disturbance from the environment light?
Light is not a problem, vibrations transferred through air might have some influence, but again, I have transports that are not open drive and sound much worse.

I like convenience here and similarity to analog turntable, I even like the simple display with just a track number.
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Old 13th April 2008, 09:54 PM   #334
okapi is offline okapi  United States
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Default 4 hrs in

i had a go at the cd clamp today. as usual i underestimated the time investment by a factor of 4 - it will probably take me 8 hours to finish the first one. by the second or third clamp i should be able to half the time involved. working on a non metric lathe slows things down a little.

here is a pic with about 2/3 of the difficult cuts done on the bottom half of the clamp.

getting a nice cut that maintains the transparency is not always easy (as can be seen with the 47 labs cd clamp). so far i seem to be able to do it. getting the threads perfectly transparent will be another story - in other words it won't happen.

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Old 13th April 2008, 10:01 PM   #335
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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WOW! That looks great - love the luminous yellow colour

I don't suppose you'd be willing to sell one to me? (pretty please )

- John
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:15 PM   #336
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A yellow clamp will match display nicely
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:32 PM   #337
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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EXACTLY what I was thinking Peter
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:34 PM   #338
quan is offline quan  Australia
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Talking shigaclone-clamp

Second me after John
I am still deciding how to get the parts-
Is BG PK any good for digital coupling?
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:37 PM   #339
johnm is offline johnm  United Kingdom
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P.S. Peter is it fine to use MUR860's instead of the MSR's you recommend for the Shigaclone? I'm trying to use parts I already have from other projects to keep costs down

- J
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:51 PM   #340
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Yes, it's fine. You can always switch later to MSR which in my opinion have a little bit of advantage in digital.

I wouldn't use BG for digital coupling. I like blue ERO the most, but again, it's only my personal opinion
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