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Old 26th March 2009, 09:08 AM   #3201
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Erik i investigated the materials and physics behind by bees some years ago and found similar material used for other electronic purposes. I am trying to find where I bought them from. I can send photos of them and it might be identified by someone on the internet.

I will report back on the 'pioneer puck', bybee, trichord clock mod surface cap changes and digilampizator over the weekend if i have time. I am also trying to purchase more EZ51 as there will be tears in some of these projects.
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Old 26th March 2009, 11:35 AM   #3202
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Thanks, as always I am following as much DIY as possible.

I have a few original bybees lying around ...they are a bit expensive...and for optimal purpose...you need a lot of them.....so homemades are more than welcome
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Old 26th March 2009, 12:42 PM   #3203
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nemo1968:

If you email me the photos through the email in my profile I will photoshop them and host them and link them so that others can see. Maybe you would include a pic of your puck as well.

Last night I purposely made an eccentric puck (so that the CD wobbled) and I can't tell you how much worse the album sounded. Definitely more is to be had by somehow making sure the disc wobbles as little as possible. At the moment I am working on a "clamp" made from ebony but that holds a CD which acts as a full cover as well.

I need a metric week to do all this stuff!

Fran
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Old 26th March 2009, 12:51 PM   #3204
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...it took me quite a few platforms and pucks to get it right...but I found it worth it.....
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Old 26th March 2009, 01:11 PM   #3205
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Quote:
Originally posted by woodturner-fran
Last night I purposely made an eccentric puck (so that the CD wobbled) and I can't tell you how much worse the album sounded. Definitely more is to be had by somehow making sure the disc wobbles as little as possible. At the moment I am working on a "clamp" made from ebony but that holds a CD which acts as a full cover as well.

I need a metric week to do all this stuff!

Fran
Maybe this will work, Fran.

Just kidding!!

Anton.
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Old 26th March 2009, 03:21 PM   #3206
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They are turntable ones right?


What I think would work really well if I was a good enough machinist is to clone the Teres turntable platter and clamp.

Its kinda hard to describe how it works, but basically it forces the disc into intimate contact with the platter - more than just an ordinary weight. I think a screw down puck is needed, but I just need to figure out would one that covers the whole disc (or nearly the whole disc) be better than one for the centre only. I think its important to keep the weight down as much as possible.


See the way 47 labs set up the pi-tracer transport? You put the disc in upside down and clamp it down and then the laser moves over the top of it. Thats a good way to sort out this wobble in discs I think.

Fran

Fran
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Old 26th March 2009, 07:04 PM   #3207
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That depends Fran...If the warp is facing upwards (for us downwards) I reckon there is not much you can do with your PiTracer.....since it uses the same puck as us mortals....

I have heard the Pitracer and I was not thrilled by it at all....it might be the complete set....all of it was too much in a Zen mode for me........works great for a violin or a guitar but.....bla bla bla...

It was certainly a cold shower since it was my dream reference inspiration based solely upon reading reviews and beautiful pics...

What is funny is that you can see (unique by design) that the laser transportsystem of the PiTracer works like crazy ............


BTW
In the beginning I did loads of tests and the best solution for me is to tighten the puck ever so slightly....almost only whirling it to the end...
No strain and perfect read-outs (that is no muting etc etc) especially at the end of the disc (tracks)
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Old 26th March 2009, 07:24 PM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally posted by jitter


IMHO those tolerance values are quite useless because they say nothing about how quickly or slowly the frequency varies. What if a clock is always 100 ppm off, but rock steady? And what if a clock has only 20 ppm but varies wildly within those 20 ppm?
ok jitter, it makes sense.
I forgot to mention that frequency tolerance of the stock ceramic resonator ZTTMX is usually 0.5%=5.000ppm.
In the last two days I listened to many other well-known CDs and all sounds better by far with the Citizen installed.
I know that in the past many declared there was no change or that the stock was better (i.e. johnm http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...05#post1488505), but in my system there's no doubt at all.
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Old 26th March 2009, 07:31 PM   #3209
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Yep! You're right Fran, they are for my turntable.

For the function of flattening you can also use a carbon disc damper (p.e. Millenium) together with your puck.

You have to be carefull with this little spindle motor, you don't want to make it 'top' heavy.

But it will be a cream to center and screwdown.


Anton.
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Old 27th March 2009, 01:33 AM   #3210
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I added the trichord clock 4 needs burning in,but at the moment prefer the stock clock for its more natural warmth of tone. Strings have a smoothness and fullness with the original clock, but sound a little more detailed and harsher with the Trichord. The Trichord provides a little more air but not necessarily more presence and realism.........
need to burn the clock 4 in before making more judgements.

Used the pioneer stable platter disc and yes preferred it to the ebony. same naturalness and presence but less loss of detail and not as overpowering in the midbass,which felt unnatural overall to my ears. Perhaps because it was more correctly centered?

however the biggest improvement and it was the same regardless of which clock i used, was adding my own diy bybees. Brought solidity and tangible presence to voices, almost as if i was closer to the microphone now and more able to hear the details in Frankies voice. Not a huge jump but certainly a more significant upgrade.

PS as i had blown up so many transports i got fed up of upgrading the caps and so these comments are made on a stock version with no cap upgrades.

Photos to come at the weekend.
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