Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 272 - diyAudio
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Old 5th January 2009, 08:12 PM   #2711
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Just in case the other picture didn't show clear..Test voltage out with an LED and 470r series resistor as load..
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Old 5th January 2009, 08:22 PM   #2712
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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Still on the high side...

Do you have some resistors lying around? Maybe you can load the 8V up starting with 470 ohms and then down in steps. See if the output drops towards 8V more and more if you lower the load-resistance.

I measured with a clamp amp meter (very inaccurate at these low currents) on the 8V wire going to the CD-board. With a CD playing it seems to draw around 0.2 A.

Edit: valo and audio1st were a bit quicker...
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Old 5th January 2009, 08:26 PM   #2713
valo is offline valo  Norway
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A quick question for Audio1st

I did see in somewher in this thread that you did use the "red" ebayclock, but is i can remeber youre clock was a litle modyfied, guess you have removed the bridge so that you may run it on DC rigth ?

And did you connect it like its done in this picture ??
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Old 5th January 2009, 08:32 PM   #2714
Kooka is offline Kooka  Italy
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Ok, it worked: just connected the B+ wire to DC+ and not with the 12V+.
Now the problem is ... I burned the led (too little dimming resistor) I have to put the display under a smoked lens so I tried feeding it with 8V and it was too juch with a 1k resistor there (5,6K was working but too much dimmed).
Anyone knows how to reach the led without destroying the display itself, guys?
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Old 5th January 2009, 08:38 PM   #2715
valo is offline valo  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kooka
Ok, it worked: just connected the B+ wire to DC+ and not with the 12V+.
Now the problem is ... I burned the led (too little dimming resistor) I have to put the display under a smoked lens so I tried feeding it with 8V and it was too juch with a 1k resistor there (5,6K was working but too much dimmed).
Anyone knows how to reach the led without destroying the display itself, guys?

Use a 5k potmeter then you have a dimmer.. and when your happy whit the ligth measure the potmeter and replace it whit an resistor
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Old 5th January 2009, 09:32 PM   #2716
Kooka is offline Kooka  Italy
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Got it, brand new blue led installed, about 470ohm dimmed (with 8V supply). Looks good too!
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Old 5th January 2009, 10:40 PM   #2717
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Quote:
Originally posted by valo
A quick question for Audio1st

I did see in somewher in this thread that you did use the "red" ebayclock, but is i can remeber youre clock was a litle modyfied, guess you have removed the bridge so that you may run it on DC rigth ?

And did you connect it like its done in this picture ??
Hi, yes I removed the bridge and powered it from the DC before the 7808 (about 17V). I also had to change the gold cap on the clock board because it only had a 16V rating. Only a single connection to the crystal location (XO), because it shares the same power supply ground.
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Old 6th January 2009, 03:56 AM   #2718
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Another clone rears it's ugly drive!

Quote:
Originally posted by kevinkr
No, it's not short enough and never will be simply because the cable is not correctly terminated into its characteristic impedance at the sending end.<SNIP>(I think I have already mentioned these issues a few times in this thread.)
It has been and thank you Kevin for reminding me of this. I'll report back once I've put in the proper network.

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FWIW I think the Shigaclone is great, and in my system it offers the most natural sounding CD playback I have yet experienced, that said it REALLY pales in comparison to good analog (R2R tape or LP) or SACD. I have also downloaded live pcm recordings of admittedly pretty obscure bands from www.archive.org with 24 bit 48K or 96K sample rates and these easily better my best CDs for sound quality in many instances as well. (Media server required, and files are flac format.) Might as well get the best from your CD collection possible, but don't fall into the trap of thinking that CD offers anything close to the best achievable audio performance - it clearly doesn't and can't.
I have high hopes for the AOB/cMP-Squared-type 'hair-shirt' music player that I'm currently sourcing & starting to assemble , but I'm getting my TT setup up & running again notwithstanding.

Thanks for the tip on the downloads too!

Quote:
The mounting technique was very audible as Peter said and the additional mass helped as well.
I was very reminded of that last night. I decided my Shiga was sounding a bit emphasized in the upper midrange / lower treble and decided to try a few things to mellow it out:

1. Damping material on the clamp... no, sounded a bit confused (but the damping wasn't as well-centered and balanced as I wanted... may have to try this again later and do it better).

2. Change mounting screws from original stainless steel to brass... Yup, that moved it in the right direction, but now it's a bit too warm and too much detail is lost.

3. Change one of the mounting screws (the one farthest away from the CD spindle) back to stainless... yup, this moved it to a good middle-ground.

4. Swap the screws' positions... nope, a little too emphasized again.

I put the screws back to the #3 configuration.

I was mildly surprised that it was this sensitive!

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Old 6th January 2009, 07:59 AM   #2719
Kooka is offline Kooka  Italy
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
C952 is removed (as well as the L901 choke), C916 is replaced by BG N 47/50; corresponding ceramic bypasses are also removed.

I added BG N 4.7/50 in parallel with first BG STD in regulator circuit, as the sound was a bit too "abrassive" for my taste.

This is how it looks after all is done.
Peter talks about "ceramic bypasses", but actually I found only ONE ceramic bypass (marked "4" in the pcb underside in the PDF).
No other "ceramic bypasses" (plural) found there between C952 and C916.
Or am I missing something? Was Peter talking about other "ceramic bypasses" at that point?
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Old 6th January 2009, 09:33 AM   #2720
jonners is offline jonners  United Kingdom
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Kooka -

The bypasses are C963 (bypassing C952) and C917 (bypassing C916). They are located near the outer edges of the heat sink.

John
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