Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story - Page 262 - diyAudio
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Old 27th December 2008, 07:10 PM   #2611
AuroraB is offline AuroraB  Norway
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Valo...
I think I saw you mentioning you bought the player somewhere locally?????

-and I actually very much second your choice of building towards the Lector look - almost exactly the direction I want to go myself.
I'm pretty tired of alu or black metal boxes - I live with them all day..........

BTW- this project have certainly tickled my interest...
but for several reasons I would prefer the display to have a little more info. There is an RC-EZ55 with just about the display info I need... does anyone know about it's innards...??
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Old 27th December 2008, 08:11 PM   #2612
valo is offline valo  Norway
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Quote:
Originally posted by AuroraB
Valo...
I think I saw you mentioning you bought the player somewhere locally?????

-and I actually very much second your choice of building towards the Lector look - almost exactly the direction I want to go myself.
I'm pretty tired of alu or black metal boxes - I live with them all day..........

BTW- this project have certainly tickled my interest...
but for several reasons I would prefer the display to have a little more info. There is an RC-EZ55 with just about the display info I need... does anyone know about it's innards...??

Yepps thats rigth, I did buy one on a local store and i did order 2 more from elgiganten ,so i got 3 players in total atm

I can not help you whit the EZ55, but buy an 51 easy to find here and all you need to know about it you will find in this thread and in the Polish forum
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Old 27th December 2008, 11:48 PM   #2613
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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Finally finished reading this thread (yes, all 105 pages) and my fingers are itching to get started on my own Shigaclone.

I did some field work today, but came back empty handed. I live in a city with lots of electronics stores. I must have visited most of 'em, but only one had the right models. Yes, they had both the RC-EZ31 and '51. The '31 was the last one left, it was the one on the shelf that had probably been there for a long time. Lots of grubby mitts must have fumbled with it. I asked a staff member if he could come up with a good price. I could have it for € 35, but the remote had vanished. I decided not to buy it figuring that a decent universal remote control will cost at least €20, maybe more. The '51 seemed overpriced at € 69. I tried to negotiate the price, but mentioning some online stores they refused, saying they were not allowed to compete with them (meaning: "were not going to drop the price that low"). So I thanked them politely for their trouble and went away. I'll order a '51 online which should set me back about the same amount (i.e. € 51) incl. shipping.

I am no regular DIYer when it comes to audio, but no stranger to it either, as you can see below. About nine or ten years ago I built myself a headphone amplifier. (Headphones have long been my preferred way of listening to music.) It's a very old Elektuur (Elektor) design which is basically a discrete dual opamp with output stages working in class A. This thing just sounds amazing, I prefer it over the headphones output of my Marantz PM80SE.
Click the image to open in full size.
Everything crammed in a nice and compact housing. Through this I will definitly hear suble changes as I go along with upgrading the 'clone.

In the meantime I will do some reading on a DIY DAC as I have no separate HQ DAC. I do have the possibility to check the S/PDIF, though. I have a Pioneer PDR-555RW CD-recorder of which the transport is broken (the rest is fine). It currently functions as a DAC for my DVD-player and HDD recorder, both af which have mediocre analogue outputs. But the Pioneer is no stunner.

To be continued...
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Old 28th December 2008, 08:26 AM   #2614
thermos is offline thermos  Australia
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After no luck trying to find a RC-EZ31 or 51 in Australia,
I thought I would try and buy a Sanyo MCD-ZX530F.
It is quite a simple unit and made sure it didnt support MP3s.

On opening it up it has the same CD-06 (K17T40/41) Board with
DOUT etc.

Although, it does not have a LC78601R but rather a LC78602R.
Is this OK? Any advice would be appreciated.

The other chip is a LA9242.

The other disadvantage is the controls panel is different with no remote control.

I hope it is still OK, as I bought a second one as a spare!
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Old 28th December 2008, 09:12 AM   #2615
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Well its a different chipset, so who knows whether it will sound worse or better. But it might be better! So I'd say, make it up and have a listen and let us know. Be aware (as I'm sure youare) that the original took a fair bit of experimentation.....


Be sure to keep us posted....


Fran
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Old 28th December 2008, 09:30 AM   #2616
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by thermos
I thought I would try and buy a Sanyo MCD-ZX530F.
It is quite a simple unit and made sure it didnt support MP3s.

On opening it up it has the same CD-06 (K17T40/41) Board with
DOUT etc.

Although, it does not have a LC78601R but rather a LC78602R.
Is this OK? Any advice would be appreciated.

The other chip is a LA9242.
Interesting find! I just looked at okapi's pdf (which was posted at the beginning of this thread) on the various mods, seeing the picture on page 2, I noticed the '31 has the LA9242.

I also just put the datasheets of the LC78601 next to the LC78602.
They seem to be nearly identical. I would not be surprised if the last digit in the type number is just a revision number.
I will be looking further into the datasheet and report the differences I come across soon.

I'd say this Sanyo boom box's internals would be worth using, if you're willing to do without the remote control.
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Old 28th December 2008, 09:45 AM   #2617
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See on your display PCB theres a space for a component just to the left of the numeric display - oval inside a rectangle with 3 legs? That looks awful like where the remote sensor would go. I wonder if you put one in would it work?

Maybe have a look and see if other parts around there are populated?

Fran
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Old 28th December 2008, 10:03 AM   #2618
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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Just had a better look at the datasheets, it seems that only major difference is in the way the keyboard and display are hooked up to the IC. Judging by the text on the datasheet near the display, the '1 seems to designed for an LCD, the '2 for a LED-display.

Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.

Description in the datasheet:
LC78601: Key matrix circuit with 4 inputs and 2 outputs for an
8-key matrix
LC78602: Key matrix circuit with 1 input and 8 outputs for an
8-key matrix

So, it's not a revision number, like I stated in my previous post.
But I'm pretty sure that the signal processing parts of the ICs are identical.

Come to think of it, IIRC, I saw at least one 'clone with a LED-display, so maybe this is old news...

Edit: and here it is...
Edit 2: and another one...
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Old 28th December 2008, 10:54 AM   #2619
thermos is offline thermos  Australia
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Quote:
Originally posted by woodturner-fran
See on your display PCB theres a space for a component just to the left of the numeric display - oval inside a rectangle with 3 legs? That looks awful like where the remote sensor would go. I wonder if you put one in would it work?

Maybe have a look and see if other parts around there are populated?

Fran

Yes, there is an oval inside a rectangle missing labelled RFM701, the other components missing are C704,C705 and R706.

The board is labelled 248-X53003-100. A google search revealed nothing.
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Old 28th December 2008, 11:14 AM   #2620
jitter is offline jitter  Netherlands
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I just looked at the schematics in the service manual of the RC-EZ31. It looks like it's a very simple circuit.

In that schematic, the IR-receiver is designated REM701. One pin of the reciever goes straight to the DSP (LC78601). The middle pin is connected to GND. The other pin is connected to +5V through a 1k5 resistor (R702 in this case).
(1k5 = black-green-red)

Chances are you can get the remote to function without too much trouble. If the ribbon cable between the display-/keyboard and the CD-board is the same as in the '31 (18 pins, fully connected) it might be nothing more than installing a suitable IR-receiver and the 1k5 resistor (and of course finding a remote control unit compatible with the boombox).

Edit: I deleted "left" and "right" in naming the pins, looking at the pictures, I'm not sure I'm interpreting the drawings (layout of the pcbs and schematic) correctly. Shouldn't really matter as I'm assuming the pcbs are fully functional, it's just a matter of installing the missing components.
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