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Old 27th November 2008, 08:47 PM   #2351
valo is offline valo  Norway
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Realy nice work, maybe i will go for wood too

Peter you did write that you did not like "toroide" transformers in digital circuts , but i dident understand why.. iam using an toroide
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Old 27th November 2008, 08:48 PM   #2352
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Pictures below show modifications to a display board: it's been trimmed, and where important traces had to be cut, they've been replaced with hookup wire.

Click the image to open in full size.

Unneccessary components in top layer were removed:

Click the image to open in full size.

There are 5 connection points to the switches:

2 common for all switches
S stop
P play
B back skip
F forward skip:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 27th November 2008, 08:51 PM   #2353
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Old 27th November 2008, 08:54 PM   #2354
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Now, how does it sound? It sounds pretty damn good and I don't really feel tempted to touch anything, except maybe for trying the oscillator.

It has that raw energy that impressed me so much when I listened first time to Shigaraki; it's a bit less smooth and refined than my other clone, but for now it doesn't bother me at all
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Old 27th November 2008, 08:58 PM   #2355
SCD is offline SCD  Canada
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Default WOW

Peter you are a very skilled hobbiest.
I am very impressed with your work and your willingness to share and guide others.

Good for you
Thanks again for all your contributions
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Old 27th November 2008, 09:57 PM   #2356
Badge is offline Badge  United States
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Hello Gang. I am jumping back in after taking the summer off. before putting it away last spring I did manage to get all the mods done to the power supply and drive boards. I had a one off cast made out of aluminum with 1/2" sides and bottom for the chassis. I am now trying to figure out how to do the display and function buttons. Quick question. I know the lid switch needs to be a on/off, but I am not sure about the function keys? Are they on/off or momentary?
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Old 27th November 2008, 11:00 PM   #2357
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Peter, thats just beautiful work. Very zen, very 47 labs!

I have a second one of these to start putting together and I think I'm going to do something very similar to what you have there.

Question about the puch buttons...... I understand you using the original buttons from the PCB. What do you do then - is it just a case of machining a few from solid bar so that they rest on top of the original buttons when the top is on? Do they feel good in use, or is there any problems with them rattling or anything in use?


Some more pics (sorry a pain I know) of how you did the buttons would be most helpful.....

Fran
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Old 27th November 2008, 11:09 PM   #2358
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I used the same idea as here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...057#post386057

Cylindrical push buttons are attached to microswitches with double sided adhesive tape, works great. The holes in acrylic panel need to be only slightly bigger than the buttons, for smooth action.

I didn't finish that part yet, also I made mistake with TOC switch, the one from boombox can't be used as it needs to be normally closed.
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Old 27th November 2008, 11:14 PM   #2359
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Quote:
Originally posted by valo
Peter you did write that you did not like "toroide" transformers in digital circuts , but i dident understand why.. iam using an toroide
I'm not sure if they better, but it's quite common to use split bobbin transformers with digital or low power electronics in general as they provide better separation from AC line.


Quote:
Originally posted by Badge
I am now trying to figure out how to do the display and function buttons. Quick question. I know the lid switch needs to be a on/off, but I am not sure about the function keys? Are they on/off or momentary?
Display schematic attached. All switches are momentary: normally closed for lid and normally open for other functions.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg display3.jpg (96.2 KB, 1958 views)
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Old 27th November 2008, 11:47 PM   #2360
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Many thanks Peter, very helpful indeed. The double sided tape is a great idea.


Fran
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