Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

Hello Fran,

I just posted a new message with pics when I saw you had already answered.
Thanks for the pic, it is exactly what I needed, and shows exactly what I did wrong earlier. Thankfully I did not mistakenly buy the wrong mechanism. I'll slide in a completely new mechanism and see if it cures the problem.
 
I had very similar problems until I realized that the platter height was probably incorrect. A minor adjustment (in this case maybe a half to one mm closer to the laser) solved all of these issues on my Shigaclone. If you've messed around with the platter at all it would be quite likely that it is not in quite the right place, and then it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. Mine is pretty un-finicky about what it plays.

Hi Kevin,

My platter height is correct, only the black Hi-Space discs do seem to have once in a while the need of a second read attempt.
An occasional malfunction on originals...ahhh...I actually do not mind, it serves as a warning to clean/inspect my cd's before playing :rolleyes:

BTW I finished the 5V today with its own trannie...for me it appears to be an improvement again....but hey I have deja-vu's all over again...:D


SecondSupply.jpg
 
All you should need to do is desolder that new small PCB from the replacement mech, wire back in the new mech to the old board, and remove the solder blob...

Fran

Fran,

You are correct, I simply desoldered the blob, put a new mechanism in its entirety in place of the old mechanism instead of just cannibalising a few parts, and it now plays all the discs it previously rejected.
Conclusion: mixing parts (end switch, motors) from different mechanisms without checking all tolerances is probably not such a good idea.

Thanks for your help,
Jeroen
 
Hi Valo,

Take a good regulator this 5 volt is very important

The best thing is to use a super regulator and its own trannie...at least that is my opinion...(even better is to build a pre regulation first, than the super regulation......and let the 220 (or other) voltage come in via a medium sized linefilter and bybees :cool:)

There is a photo of the board somewhere on this topic where the 5V+ location is pointed out to solder your 5V +...(a solder-island close to a cap) without having to scratch the print for the second time...you can easily follow the printline towards it...starting at the red arrow
The 5V- is more difficult since it is partly under the heatsink very close to the chip ...carefull !!
 
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Hello everybody,

so somehow i lost the overview of all those modifications.
So meanwhile i did all those okapi mods from the very beginning
of this thread. And then i lost it.....
Did anyone accumulate all the mods worth doing at this very moment
and would send per email or post here?

Greetings Ulf
 
le'flu

I have the okapi mods pdf if you want it - send me a PM with your email address.

But the main mods as far as I can remember:

mechanism mounted on 2 supports on heavy base

Power supply with BG caps and LM7808 from the original transformer

replace/remove caps as per okapi PDF

Don't remove/replace caps, but rather follow Peters' advice in the cd transport thread

Use 300/91 resistors on SPDIF output - dale, riken, caddock.

Replace original oscillator with citizen crystal

Take the mechanism off the bottom controller board

Play around a lot with C906, then replace with original

reclocking using mod from CEC TL0

Remove output resistors and use RF attenuators instead

Use super regulated PS for 8V supply.

Use super regulated PS for 8V and 5V supply

Use new acrylic or delrin platter and puck



Thats all I can remember right now!


Fran
 
Hi Fran,
thanks for all your help. If the original okapi pdf hasn´t change
yet i don´t - i got it. And unfortunately i did all those ´lytic-changes
to BG-N ones and threw the original´s away...so can´t get back.

"Take the mechanism off the bottom controller board"

"Remove output resistors and use RF attenuators instead"

i don´t understand those two hints...could you refer to further explain-
ations?

Greetings Ulf
 
Hi Peter,
would you be so kind and shortly give an abstract of your latest recommen-
ded modifications?

Thanks and greetings ulf

(What i did until now is using all those okapi mods, copperplate, lm7808
2*1000uF/35 silmic before and BG Std 1000uF/25V after reg, EI-Trannie and
MSR in an extra housing)